Its time to go Turbo!

Most I know if is John Urist who made over 800 rwhp and 750 rwtq with a fairly basic 347 and a T76 turbo through a manual transmission in a street car. Of course he's kind of a turbo savant, having made over 2000 hp with a Coyote, so take that as you will.

I'd like to see about the same thing and really don't have any reason to believe I won't with an open downpipe.
 
I think this should stop the excessive engine movement on aggressive shifts. also forgot to mention. I checked true top dead center and am happy to say the stock timing pointer is quite accurate.
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I also like the way the stock intake looks. anytime you see a tubular gt40 you always think its a lightning intake even if its on a 302. Im not really in love with most of the setups. My top 3 are the Holley, the box R (sorry brian, i'll stop following you one of these day) or the carb style with an elbow, but the carb style are really setup for top end power and being a stick street truck might not be ideal. I'm not against going Holley and making my own sheet metal top hat for it. I'm sure a nicely fabricated aluminum top would eliminate the "LS" look a bit and really set the bay off nicely.
 
Yeah, I'd say you won't have ANY issues with unwanted engine movement!

Interesting leveling the motor. I've never done that. Makes me wonder what the level on mine looks like. I've always just tried to make sure the mount bolts were fairly even on the pads.

One of the joys of being turbocharged is that, as long as your intercooler is up to the task, overcoming a restriction on the intake side of the engine is as easy as turning a knob or hitting a couple keys. The amount of focus on perfect optimization of the intake isn't nearly as important as it is on a naturally aspirated combo, or to some degree on a blower setup. The hot side downstream of the turbo is way more important, and that's definitely the weak spot on my combo. Yours looks significantly better than mine. Eventually I'll spend the money to go to a full 4" exhaust, but I have so much money in the 3" that it'll just have to do for a bit.

BTW, what valve covers are you running? Are you running an intake spacer or do they fit under the GT40 without one?
 
FlatOut said:
I'm not against going Holley and making my own sheet metal top hat for it. I'm sure a nicely fabricated aluminum top would eliminate the "LS" look a bit and really set the bay off nicely.
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I like this idea. Would change the look and the Holley top puts the TB into the rad hose shroud area,doesn't fit/look good IMO. One of these changes the look! https://shearerfabrications.com/collections/hiram-intercoolers

A carb style single plane intake is something to think about for taking the edge off of the mid range torque and keeping the shortblock alive. But only if you think you'll crank it up to the 800+ level. :D
 
This is the only photo i have of the valve covers. They were like 3/8 of an inch from touching the vacuum nipple off the bottom of the plenum before. I noticed these heads are roughly 3/8 of an inch taller than the gt40s so i took that fitting and shortened it .400 to make sure that i would have similar clearance. I am running a 1" spacer and still had to modify the fuel rail to clear the FPR with the intake flipped.
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My mindset with the holley was similar to the single plan. Id imagine it would move the torque curve up a bit to maybe lessen the hit it has now. I haven't really considered giving up on making power just yet so well see. :D I did just google the holley and they make a sheet metal top for it for a very reasonable price that is a side entry. I don't even think i could make it for much less than the $300 they sell it for. That shearer fabrication intercooler is a work of art. that with a bed tank and a heat exchanger would be pretty stout
 
Well it runs. I got the pushrods last night. A quick check they seemed to be just right. Threw the rest of the setup back together this morning,. I don't know who the dumbass who thought a 7mm header bolt was a good idea. after that little mishap of a broken socket, it was much nicer to put the manifold on and no leaks. After a quick potential scare of a squeak that ended up being a crack in a plenum gasket. all seems well. It burped the last of the coolant out of the exhaust and all the header wrap made quite the smokey mess for a while but it has cleared up. The tune is not happy with the new found air. I did a quick lap around the block and it drives good. no leaks, feels good. Trickflow "recommends" 2-4 hours of normal driving to break in the valve train. I don't see that being necessary so i'll give it a little bit while playing with the tune and for cruise/drive-ability before going WOT. I turned the boost back down to gate pressure but don't plan on keeping it there for long.

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I’ve never heard of breaking in the valve train lol. But who knows I’m sure there is a reason. Glad it’s back together. She should really rip now
 
Glad to see it back together!!

How did you mount the throttle cable?

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FMOS Racing said:
Glad to see it back together!!

How did you mount the throttle cable?

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I made a bracket off the back of the intake. I was limited on space and didn't know about the cable bracket spacers they make at the time.

Briansshop said:
Very nice,looking to hear what you think after some full power pulls.
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So other than having a bit of trouble trying to get the tune not to idle surge/hunt while its warming up (i have to do a vac leak check just incase its not tune related) I got about 40 miles on it playing with the drive-ability. I did do a couple WOT pulls are gate pressure (8psi) and quite impressed. I'd say 8psi now is similar if not better than it was at 12 before and i have full intentions of turning it back to 12 psi. once warmed up it drives very nice. definitely a head turner with all the cool noises it makes. That borgwarner whistles like crazy.

i was getting on the highway and decided i wanted to stay in front of traffic so pulled it down into second and traction was limited in 2nd and got up to 100 quickly. thats the first time on power it has actually spun. Im impressed with how well it does hook. I have a hard time judging how "fast" it actually is because i switch between this and my car daily and my car makes more power and is 1600lbs lighter so its a tough comparison.
 
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here is a little video for your viewing pleasure. It may not be as "fast" as a auto truck but boy is it a hoot to drive. This was just a quick rip. 8-9 psi. I know it was questioned a while back what it sounds like. Hopefully youtube and a cell phone video don't butcher it too much. 5800 in second, 5500 in third and i think about 5k in 4th.

 
I showed my wife. The first thing she said was, "Ohhhh stick shift." After watching the video, she said, "So, when are you converting?" LOL
 
Thanks guys. its definitely fun and quite the head turner. It doesn't shift like a "truck" which is nice. The carbon synchros and my own little mod on the bottom of the shifter to imitate what the upgraded shift fingers on rear shifted transmission were a great upgrades as it was a typical TKO that didn't like to shift at any sort of RPM before and now its nice and smooth. I have plenty more plans for it but I'm going to continue to dial some stuff in and enjoy it for now. maybe a couple more pounds....
 
Nothing overly exciting here. Added a turbo blanket. now that its a bit warmer weather i noticed my hood was rather toasty. I have up'd the boost to 10 psi. And replaced the radius arm bushings with some poly ones. I have been working on my tune a bit. Drive-ability is getting pretty good. Still a few little quirks during warm up idle. I need to get the add on harness from stinger to add a few more things. (launch control, e fans, etc) I need to add AC idle up as well because the ac makes the idle go bonkers. next on the list is to add some sort of muffler. I like the way it sounds but it is super loud. It was quieter with an open downpipe.

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