PiMPxs (MS3)

slow94 said:
I use launch control on the expansion harness. Just use a momentary switch. One wire to the launch in wire and one to a ground. Once grounded it activates once you reach your set parameters. Pretty sure you have to select just your expansion input to activate it only. From the "factory" they have it set up using the brakes. Once you select the expansion launch in then it doesn't use the brake anymore I don't believe, although you will be on the brake anyway.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I don't want a momentary pushbutton, don't want a button on the shift lever or anything like that. I want the momentary to be the brake pedal. I'll setup a Loop variable with an "and" between the brake pedal and the Launch In.

I need to be able to toggle it on and off so that I can do a burnout. I also want to use the same pushbutton for table switching.

But any time there's an input on the Launch In pin on the expansion port, it's driving the MLPS voltage low, which forces it into first gear. I don't want this behavior. :(
 
I gotcha. That is weird. I have my push button currently located at the base of my race seat though. Didn't want anything on steering wheel either, though you probably could use one of the horn switches.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk
 
FMOS Racing said:
Thought I'd post what I consider to be an interesting tidbit. With the really nice weather, I've been driving my truck to work. It's just shy of 100 miles round trip, about 70% highway. I've been very pleased that the pickup is getting right at 16 mpg - I set the cruise at about 77 mph on the highway. I think I could lean cruise out a bit more and get a little better, but I'm very pleased with that. It's not much off of my similar displacement, daily driver, 2015 MY car with a six speed auto.

And a question - has anyone confirmed whether or not the PiMP leaves the coast clutch locked when the OD is switched off like stock? It doesn't feel like it does to me, but I haven't done anything to confirm it and I've only played with it a few times. It's not a big deal in my current configuration, but it would've mattered intensely to me when I was towing and wanted the engine braking on downhills.
Click to expand...
I’d like to know how you got your truck to drive smooth with the cruise control. When my truck had the stock intake, throttle bodies, and converter it was and smooth. Now it jumps around a bunch and the afr is really erratic. I like to smooth this out so I can use the cruise more often.

As far as mpg goes the highest I’ve got with 4.10s is 17 and 18 with 3.55s. Mostly highway. But thats with the stock ecu. Best with the pimpxshift is 14 with 4.10s. The tune is not perfect by any means so I know it as room for improvement. All sequential btw my truck was a maf factory
 
I'm still using a stock intake and throttle body. Even so, the cruise is definitely more "twitchy" than my foot. I'd imagine with a bigger throttle body, it'd be noticeably erratic, but the AFR can still be pretty steady at lower RPMs/loads. Mine is rock solid at 65, but by 75 I'm starting to push out of the load area where I'm comfortable running it a little lean.

I don't have the tune in front of me, but for example, running less than 80 kPa/2200 RPMs (about where I am at 75 mph with the 3.73s), I'm comfortable with the 15:1-ish AFR, but by 90 kPa, I'm pushing that down into the upper 13s, and then at 100 kPa I'm into the upper 12s for the transition into boost. If the cruise needs to dial in much throttle at 80 mph, the AFR is going to plummet. At 70, there's a lot more headroom for the throttle, and the AFR will be a lot more stable.
 
I imaging your ve table needs to be perfect in the areas where you cruise at otherwise you may be stuck between a few cells that aren't perfect.
 
BONESTOCK said:
Ha! What are these "MPG's" you all are talkin bout?!

50052220516_5bd02ef8ce_h.jpg
Click to expand...

Decent Miles Per Gallon with a 351W in a 4000+lbs Vehicle running 4.10s...

300px-Laughing_Tom_Cruise.jpg
 
BONESTOCK said:
Checking in to see if I selected what I would need. Manual transmission. Currently 351W w/E303 and 1.7 roller rockers. Eventually plan to give it some aluminum heads and a centri-blower.

-PimpXS. I'm currently batch fed injectors but like the option to change later on.
-Obviously the license will be needed.
-It has an E303 in it now so I selected that....but is this for just a base tune pre-installed?
-No forced induction now...but plan to in the future. No is the proper selection thought, right?
-Spartan 2 w/sensor and gauge. I should get this, right? Needed for tuning? I don't have a wideband O2 sensor currently.
-No perfect tuning gauge. I don't know what that is and if it's needed. What do you all suggest?
-No flex fuel. I guess maybe someday in the future. Is this something I can add later on down the road? They don't readily sell e85 here in Mass.
-No to boost control solenoid. Not planning to go turbo.
-Air charge temp sensor and wiring. Seems like a easy/cheap upgrade and something to see in tuning.

What do you all thing? Right selections?


50270678243_fc08c4078d_h.jpg


Thanks,
Mike
Click to expand...


Ok! Took longer than expected! (Moved from MA to NC and new job!) BUT....the order is in!

Woot!


PiMPxs Standalone Engine Management (Sequential EFI)
ECU Options: PiMPxs with TunerStu..
Application: F-150 Lightning
Camshaft Specs: E303
Forced Induction: No
Add Wideband o2 Controller: Yes - Spartan 2 w/Se..
Add Perfect Tuning Gauge: No
Add Air Charge Temp (ACT) Sensor: No
Add Boost Control Solenoid: No
Add Flex Fuel Sensor: No
 
I'm glad to see this gigantic thread! I'm back in the First gen family and a lot has changed!!! Just picked up a 93 with a supercharger. It's safe to say that this truck will be starting over. One of the first things that I have to tackle is how to control the drive train as the options have changed since 2008. I have been seriously studying the PimpXshift. It seems to be exactly what I am looking for. I have a friend in the performance industry that has a Pimp on his turbocharged foxbody and the new Holley TerminatorX on his FI supercharged truck. His input is the Holley is Awesome and a bit more work. He also said the Pimp was good but he was having trouble tuning it and it doesn't seem to work well with forced induction. Even after his input I'm still leaning to the PimpXshift. Is it truly that hard to tune? I am totally inexperienced at tuning. Thanks in advance.
 
General question, what runs the cluster when you switch to PiPM, or any other system? I believe the speedo is cable-driven, but the other gauge like tach, fuel, idiot lights, etc
 
marln001 said:
I'm glad to see this gigantic thread! I'm back in the First gen family and a lot has changed!!! Just picked up a 93 with a supercharger. It's safe to say that this truck will be starting over. One of the first things that I have to tackle is how to control the drive train as the options have changed since 2008. I have been seriously studying the PimpXshift. It seems to be exactly what I am looking for. I have a friend in the performance industry that has a Pimp on his turbocharged foxbody and the new Holley TerminatorX on his FI supercharged truck. His input is the Holley is Awesome and a bit more work. He also said the Pimp was good but he was having trouble tuning it and it doesn't seem to work well with forced induction. Even after his input I'm still leaning to the PimpXshift. Is it truly that hard to tune? I am totally inexperienced at tuning. Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

Interesting that he would say there's issue tuning with forced induction. I found it incredibly easy and it pretty much works like every other EFI out there,
 
lightngsvt said:
General question, what runs the cluster when you switch to PiPM, or any other system? I believe the speedo is cable-driven, but the other gauge like tach, fuel, idiot lights, etc
Click to expand...

Chuck, the speedometer is fed by the speed sensor in the rear end. The rest of the gauges are all run off their stock sensors which the Stinger setup also uses, because you are simply plugging in the PiMP where the old computer was nothing changes.
 
lightngsvt said:
General question, what runs the cluster when you switch to PiPM, or any other system? I believe the speedo is cable-driven, but the other gauge like tach, fuel, idiot lights, etc
Click to expand...
Holley and PiMP use the same process to manage the engine. That's why I laugh when guys say their tuner only does ......

The fact is it's all table driven. The real difference is the Graphical Interface and how user friendly it is or isn't. To wire or not to wire is another big difference. If your OEM wiring is in good shape; it's hard to beat the minimal amount of wiring required by PiMP.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
 
SVT1077 said:
Holley and PiMP use the same process to manage the engine. That's why I laugh when guys say their tuner only does ......

The fact is it's all table driven. The real difference is the Graphical Interface and how user friendly it is or isn't. To wire or not to wire is another big difference. If your OEM wiring is in good shape; it's hard to beat the minimal amount of wiring required by PiMP.
Click to expand...

Correct info.

If a tuner says "we only tune xxxx system" then it's a pretty good sign they either 1) aren't a real tuner, they just took a class or two about "xxxx" system and now they tuning them for a big fee, or 2) they are trying to get you to by "xxxx" system from you because that's what they sell so if they tell you that's all they tune, they are hoping you view that as "well, I guess that's my only option then, get what the tuner says to get". I true professional tuner should be able to tune any system (other than maybe old 80's and 90's ECU's because they are way different than modern stuff, and often require very specific knowledge about the particular code those ECU's use). As far as standalone ECU's though, a good tuner should be able to figure any of them out without much trouble as they all work on the same principles as you stated.

The one other thing to look at regarding Holley vs PiMPxshift is the support. Holley farms out their support for their "non-pro" systems to their dealer network. This can be a good thing if you're wanting to find a guy to pay to tune your vehicle. However, if you're hoping to save $1000 or more by doing it yourself, you'll find the dealer network will be of very little help to you as they are in the business of making money tuning (rightfully so, they aren't a charity) and therefore they don't have much interest in giving you a bunch of help for free. Calling Holley for help with one of the "non-pro" systems will result in them guiding you towards your local dealer. So the only option remaining is asking for help from other Holley users on forums and such (which can be great, or a disaster depending on whether you listen to a guy that knows what he's talking about, or not, and it's up to you to decide who to listen to).
 
Raymond_B said:
Interesting that he would say there's issue tuning with forced induction. I found it incredibly easy and it pretty much works like every other EFI out there,
Click to expand...

Yeah, considering about 85% of our user base is either turbocharged or supercharged, it is certainly odd to say our systems doesn't work well with forced induction. There is also nothing special about forced induction that would make certain tuning systems not work well with it (other than those that only have 1 bar MAP sensors that can't read boost, but that doesn't apply here as our ECU's have 4 bar MAP's).
 
Having tuned a lot of FI vehicles over the years with a various EFI systems, all I can say to the statement that the PiMP is difficult to tune and not good for FI is, ":headscratch::headscratch::headscratch::headscratch::headscratch::blink:"!

The integrated, closed-loop boost control stuff for a turbo application is so ridiculously nice compared to a lot of the simple, duty-cycle-based setups out there.

I like the Holley interface more than TunerStudio, but that's mostly because it's more polished. It doesn't do anything more for you.

The only dash function I've given up is the oil pressure idiot needle. I've ditched it for a full-range electric sender, which feeds the PiMP and an aftermarket dash gauge. This allows me to use the PiMP's safety features that will limit or shut down the engine based on oil pressure (and most other engine functions).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top