What did you do with your Lightning today
- Thread starter Jamie V
- Start date
Is there a way to combat that? Or doing something like traditional insulation and OSB or? I can see a metal building being brutal in either of our climates.
Jamie V
Well-known member
I studded walls and a ceiling in mine and insulated like a house with a vented attic. I then put 7/16” OSB on the ceiling and 3/4” T&G OSB on the walls.
None of my insulation is directly against the inside of the metal panels. When I had the pole barn built I paid extra for a 1 foot vented soffit around the perimeter and for a ridge vent so the attic could breath.
None of my insulation is directly against the inside of the metal panels. When I had the pole barn built I paid extra for a 1 foot vented soffit around the perimeter and for a ridge vent so the attic could breath.
ASAP
Fore!
Yea, I’ve thought about that as well as if the roof leaks later down the road, it would be a nightmare finding it.
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ASAP
Fore!
Looks good man! I built mine with a lift and loft in mind so the dropped ceiling may not work for me.
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ASAP
Fore!
Yes I’m thinking the same. Appreciate the info and ideas man!
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Thats what I did. I did 2x4 walls and ceiling everywhere before I did plastic and sheetrock. No insulation.
I have cheap roll up doors that have huge gaps everywhere. You can see the light coming from around the top. Now I'm going to box those in and put brush seal around those to block most of the air.
My mini split has been able to do a 20 degree difference above outside air even with the gaps around the doors. But I'm only going to be in the garage about 3 hours a day. So I didn't think spending $3k on insulation was worth it for me. As long as I can get it up to 60 in the winter (or higher with propane heater help) or down to about 80 in the summer I'm happy. I might regret no insulation but if that happens I'll poke a lot of holes and spray foam between sheetrock and plastic layer. Not the best but That keeps the foam from holding moisture against the steel.
But for now I think once I box and seal those doors I will be happy.
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I sized the lift for the raptor with 7ft clearance under it. Then sized the garage around it with 12ft sidewalls and raised ceiling. 10x10 doors.
But I have to address these massive gaps around the doors.
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But I have to address these massive gaps around the doors.
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It's 24x36 with 12ft sidewalls. 2- 10x10 doors and one regular door. No windows or anything. They set it up in one day. Then I took 2 years to finish the inside. Those doors suck. But everything else is very nice.
Those doors are like $200, nice sealed roll up doors are about $2k each.
The building was like $9800. The concrete pad was around $14k but I had to fire the first guy. It should have been around $12k.
Those doors are like $200, nice sealed roll up doors are about $2k each.
The building was like $9800. The concrete pad was around $14k but I had to fire the first guy. It should have been around $12k.
BlackFlareSide
Member
Glenn you are probably aware of it but they make brushes and flaps to “seal” that gap at the top. That’s the only solution I know of. My buildings are the same way.
JaCor Medium-Duty Brush Seal; Clear Aluminum 45degree Holder, Black Nylon Brush; 3.0" Brush x 1.0" Holder (45deg) x 96" Long https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M2BTXZI/?tag=aymo-20
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JaCor Medium-Duty Brush Seal; Clear Aluminum 45degree Holder, Black Nylon Brush; 3.0" Brush x 1.0" Holder (45deg) x 96" Long https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M2BTXZI/?tag=aymo-20
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Thats exactly what I'm going to try first. I do think I'll need a better frame around the doors than what's there now to mount that to.
Added a cool sticker today.
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