Second build up from the short block

That looks way better than mine.

Those were to the leaf springs. This is to the frame rails.

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I used a two-part epoxy seam sealer around the wheel tubs and then sanded before I painted.

I ordered custom spray paint to my paint code.
 
I used a two-part epoxy seam sealer around the wheel tubs and then sanded before I painted.

I ordered custom spray paint to my paint code.

I wondered about seam sealer. Haven’t had a chance to look it up yet though. What’s the metal gauge that you used?


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Ray you have to have dual tables set up for that correct? One for 93 and one for e85?
 
Ray you have to have dual tables set up for that correct? One for 93 and one for e85?

Yes, however I started out with the simple E-85 fuel/timing adder, and then moved over to "Table Blending" where there are "bookend" VE and spark tables which is basically a pump gas and full E-85 version of each. And then based off ethanol % it calculates the values somewhere in-between.

Hardest part was cold start which I experienced in Maryland because the truck had never seen that temp. Don't be surprised if you have to add 3-400% to your cranking pulse-width at colder temps!
 
The flex fuel option sounds awesome. I was initially thinking more about bigger injectors, fuel pump, and possibly lines. Maybe I will put this on the winter 2021 agenda. I’m already putting a completely new drivetrain in it and new a drivetrain control system(pimpxshift). A lot for me already.

So that brings me to a question that I’ve been thinking about for a while.

I plan on getting help from an experienced tuner on the next round. Is there any good reason to try to tune it N/a and then tune on boost? It seems like I should just start it with the supercharger and tune it with that.


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I plan on getting help from an experienced tuner on the next round. Is there any good reason to try to tune it N/a and then tune on boost? It seems like I should just start it with the supercharger and tune it with that.


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You can do it that way, I honestly don’t feel like it saves you anything. N/A is going to be anything 100 and below. Anything above 100 is boost. If you have so time to watch some videos and learn I strongly recommend Evans Performance. He has a basic tuning, advanced tuning and Megasquirt specific tuning corses. Great production and broken down into small enough courses to be digestible. I paid for the monthly service and found a program that would let me record the videos so I have them for future reference (no I can’t share them with you).
 
The flex fuel option sounds awesome. I was initially thinking more about bigger injectors, fuel pump, and possibly lines. Maybe I will put this on the winter 2021 agenda. I’m already putting a completely new drivetrain in it and new a drivetrain control system(pimpxshift). A lot for me already.

So that brings me to a question that I’ve been thinking about for a while.

I plan on getting help from an experienced tuner on the next round. Is there any good reason to try to tune it N/a and then tune on boost? It seems like I should just start it with the supercharger and tune it with that.


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Yes I would recommend tuning 1st N/A and then put the blower on. That's what I did. I went from N/A pump gas -->N/A E-85-->Blower E-85. Tuning N/A is much more forgiving in my opinion, the vehicle is not as violent, and you learn the ins and outs of the software.
 
Same process I went through. I drove the truck and tuned it N/A for a few months before putting the turbo back on it.

All the really tough aspects (starting, warmup, accel fuel, WOT VE, cruise fuel and timing) are the same N/A or boosted and then you're just tweaking the timing and some small changes to the VE above 100 kPa. The autotuning will help a lot with the VE, and you have to use some sense with the timing.
 
Thanks for the help guys. That makes sense. I was thinking a little to general I guess. As in why do it twice if it’s gonna be 2 totally different tunes but it sounds like a more linear process.


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Thanks for the help guys. That makes sense. I was thinking a little to general I guess. As in why do it twice if it’s gonna be 2 totally different tunes but it sounds like a more linear process.


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Don't forget the AFR Safety System, it works really well. You can tune it to only operate under certain conditions (RPM, TPS, etc). When I first put the blower on I had a really lean tip in that only showed itself when I would stall the truck up to about 2500 or so. If I stalled it all the way up around 32-3400 it wasn't there, but I was trying to see if I could flash the converter :)
 
Ray what size and manufacturer injectors are you running to accommodate both fuels?
 
Ray what size and manufacturer injectors are you running to accommodate both fuels?

Injector Dynamics ID1700's. 1700cc is ~160lb

These are like the Kook's of the injector world, but I cannot say enough good things about them. You can go to their website and get all your data to enter in to the Megasquirt. I reached out to their support once is and they were super fast to respond and very nice. I believe the quality of the injector and their data are why idle quality is not something I've had to worry about on pump gas or E-85.
 
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