Second build up from the short block

BlackFlareSide

BlackFlareSide

Member
Second build up from short block

As some of you saw from my first post (new member), I am building back up from the short block.
I got the heads back from the machine shop all freshened up, he had to take 15 thousands off of the deck mating surface. Now I need to clearance the piston to valves. Two questions.
Anyone have an easy trick to make the hydraulic roller lifters solid? I don’t have spares so I don’t want to epoxy it. Washers the best way?
I noticed on disassembly that the lower intake was sitting quite low on the gasket and the gasket measured .1 uncompressed thickness I ordered a 0.12 gasket set. How do I confirm that it will sit correctly? Anyone have any tricks for this? Marking paint?
With the heads being milled it may be better? May not need such a thick gasket?
 
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I found some extra OEM type hydraulic roller lifters, took them apart, removed the the check valve portion and spring (should have taken some pictures) and found a 1/4 20 nut that was the perfect size to replace the spring which made the lifter solid to check the piston to valve clearance. P to V clearance checked good at .071” on both valves using clay with no gasket and then adding the compressed thickness of the fel pro 9333 gasket to make a total of .118”
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Fancy water pump!!

I just sight down the lower intake as best as I can to get the intake, gasket, and intake port lined up. It's probably not perfect, but I figure I'm not putting together a Yates-quality engine, so I find other things to lose sleep over.
 
Yeah I’d do a test fit on the intake and look down the ports. That’s the best way.

What you did worked but IVe also used weak springs and normal hyd lifters to check p2v
 
droppedf100 said:
Yeah I’d do a test fit on the intake and look down the ports. That’s the best way.

What you did worked but IVe also used weak springs and normal hyd lifters to check p2v
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Joe.
Sounds so simple but I didn’t think to look down the intake runners. From the outside they look too curved to see down them but it works great. I sometimes overlook the simple things!

I had ordered weak springs to check it but I got impatient. Have some on the shelf now.


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I had originally notched the engine mount bracket to clear the header but it was still rubbing in two spots when the engine rotated so I made the notch bigger.
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Second build up, from the short block up.

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Frame clearance and notch was a success I was able to put the passenger side header in by myself with no dirty words.
And for anyone wondering. The DEI titanium header wrap is definitely easier to work with than the cheap stuff. It stretches enough to keep it very tight in unusual places. I’d say it’s worth the extra money so far. We will see how they compare after some heat. Both sides smoked badly for the first 30 minutes. Definitely get it outside ASAP after initial start up.

Reconfigured the throttle bracket which took out the slack in the cable, changed the angle of pull, and made clearance to pull valve cover without moving the bracket. Is also somewhat adjustable.
 
Looking great all nestled back in there!

I wrapped my up and down pipes with the DEI Black Titanium this past weekend. Definitely easier to work with. I clamped it to the banister and wrapped it really tightly. Took me a few attempts to make myself happy with the metal clamps.
 
FMOS Racing said:
Looking great all nestled back in there!

I wrapped my up and down pipes with the DEI Black Titanium this past weekend. Definitely easier to work with. I clamped it to the banister and wrapped it really tightly. Took me a few attempts to make myself happy with the metal clamps.
Click to expand...

One day I’ll have a down pipe to wrap. I like the effect of the wrap once it is applied but it sure isn’t pleasant to work around. Had to take the passenger header back out. I had the machine shop true up the header flanges while it was apart and apparently the welds were to thin. Had 2 cylinders leaking. Welded, grinded and reinstalled. Now I hear a tick on the drivers side. Might as well pull it before the wrap gets brittle. So much for my perfect machined surfaces.
 
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