To my knowledge, all of the ignition circuit stuff on the truck is 12V. Only the engine state sensors are 5V.
Popping on "tip in"
- Thread starter Mavdaddy
- Start date
I have everything wired up. Re-loomed the harnesses this weekend, and installed the jumpers. Shannon and his team tell you to use their forum for questions but I notice they have a pretty short fuse for folks who ask questions that are frequently asked. I have searched the threads for answers and found most of what I needed but still had a few questions.
Started a thread last night asking for help with the few items I am not sure about. Hopefully I won't get yelled at.
The software is loaded and registered. If I have everything right I may be at the point of plugging in and turning on the key. This is where I feel really unprepared. I have watched all of the videos and read all of the literature I can find about this step of the process, but I still feel as though I have no idea what to expect.
Started a thread last night asking for help with the few items I am not sure about. Hopefully I won't get yelled at.
The software is loaded and registered. If I have everything right I may be at the point of plugging in and turning on the key. This is where I feel really unprepared. I have watched all of the videos and read all of the literature I can find about this step of the process, but I still feel as though I have no idea what to expect.
Yeah, wesk can be a little "terse."
Be sure you follow the timing setup, along with entering the transmission voltage values as they describe.
I found their base tune to be a bit lean, both on my stock truck and another truck I tuned from startup. If it gives any issues starting, increase "req fuel" a little at a time (say .2). After that, autotune will do a lot of the work.
Plenty of us here can help, too.
What's your injector size?
Be sure you follow the timing setup, along with entering the transmission voltage values as they describe.
I found their base tune to be a bit lean, both on my stock truck and another truck I tuned from startup. If it gives any issues starting, increase "req fuel" a little at a time (say .2). After that, autotune will do a lot of the work.
Plenty of us here can help, too.
What's your injector size?
They are Pro-M 75 lb./hr. I just reached out to them to get the full data on the injectors. I assume I will need to enter all of that at some point.
This thing came with an "expansion" card but no instructions were given on anything to do to it . Hell I don't even know what it does. I see it has some jumper spots on it but nothing was mentioned in the set up guide.
Our trucks get a VSS signal from the differential. From what I can see that signal passes through something located under the dash and then to the #6 pin on the ECU. Since the Stinger unit doesn't change that pin I am assuming it is already set up to read the same way. However in the Jumper list they mention "Spare VSS" on several slots. All of them just say to reference the "speed input guide" for details. I searched the forum and the flash drive and couldn't find this data. I am not sure if a jumper is required for our trucks or where it goes. I hope not because I installed the ECU last night without one.
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It should run OK with the default injector curves. It'll idle better if you have the exact values.
You mean the little board that's inside the ECU, on top of the main board, right? If so, that's the transmission controller.
I can adjust the tune from my red truck to your injector size and displacement and send it to you as a "Plan B" starting point. It may be closer than the Stinger base file for your combo, and it's already setup for sequential injection and such.
You mean the little board that's inside the ECU, on top of the main board, right? If so, that's the transmission controller.
I can adjust the tune from my red truck to your injector size and displacement and send it to you as a "Plan B" starting point. It may be closer than the Stinger base file for your combo, and it's already setup for sequential injection and such.
Did you not get the USB drive when you bought the kit? There's a huge amount of data on it, but I definitely understand that it can be overwhelming.
Yes sir... that is the card I was referring to. Now that you mention it it makes sense that they would be adding that board to do the extra stuff. Any jumpers required that you can recall?
Man the Plan "B" tune would be great if it's not to much trouble.
I did get the USB drive. I have searched it manually and even did a file search on each file folder for the key words and can't find anything about the VSS jumpers or the "speed input guide". They have been pretty good about responding so hopefully if someone on here doesn't know they will reply today.
I don't need it until I start the transmission tuning. Worse case scenario, I can remove the ECU and add the jumper later before I drive it.
The Pro-M 75# curve is on their web site - https://www.promracing.com/75-lb-hr-fuel-injector-ev1-style-e85-compatible.html
Thank you! This looks like what I need. I am guessing there will be a step in the setup that will ask for this.
Man you have no idea how happy it makes me to see that one little highlighted statement. I did not want to take that ECU back out to add a jumper.
Can I ask what section of the setup guide this was in? I searched for this last night and didn't see it anywhere.
It's in the item titled "PiMPxshiftStartupGuide" in PDF or Word format.
I purged the safety shutdowns (I hope), adjusted for displacement and injectors, input the Pro-M injector dead time curve, turned off boost control, and removed the additional sensors and outputs the I use.
I've also attached my trans file, which has my shift points and TC lock-up settings in it. I use very similar low speed curves in both of my trucks. The WOT shift points will need to be tailored to yours.
I also turned off the authority table for WBEGO correction and set it to a flat 6%.
You'll need to ditch the FMU; the tune expects only a boost-referenced regulator.
I run mine somewhat lean at cruise. Timing is pretty conservative in boost, but my motor is also ~9:1, so pretty low compression. You'll need to pay attention to signs of spark detonation if your compression ratio is higher.
I've also attached my trans file, which has my shift points and TC lock-up settings in it. I use very similar low speed curves in both of my trucks. The WOT shift points will need to be tailored to yours.
I also turned off the authority table for WBEGO correction and set it to a flat 6%.
You'll need to ditch the FMU; the tune expects only a boost-referenced regulator.
I run mine somewhat lean at cruise. Timing is pretty conservative in boost, but my motor is also ~9:1, so pretty low compression. You'll need to pay attention to signs of spark detonation if your compression ratio is higher.
Thank you very much for going to all of this trouble. Sounds like this is just what I need. The FMU came out last weekend. I do still have in place a boost referenced regulator. My compression is around 9.25:1. Until now I used an MSD 6BTM to pull .5 degrees per pound of boost. I was seeing around 15 lbs total boost. I also buy 93 octane and run Klotz octane booster. I have never had an issue with pre-detonation with this setup.
If I understand it correctly. Turning off the authority table for WBEGO correction would prevent the self tune from making automatic fuel corrections based on wide band inputs? Just trying to get my head around this new world of "tuning speech".
If I understand it correctly. Turning off the authority table for WBEGO correction would prevent the self tune from making automatic fuel corrections based on wide band inputs? Just trying to get my head around this new world of "tuning speech".
Not actually, it's a bit more advanced way for "auto tuning" to operate.
Here is my AFR/EGO control, pretty similar to what Jeff posted. Basically you set the conditions when fuel correction will happen and how much it can change at any one point that's "Controller Auth +/-(%)" and in my case it's a static 20%, if I were to use the "Authority Table" it would build that table out and use those settings instead of just plus or minus 20%.
So to dissect the picture below the Megasquirt will go "closed loop" which means it will act on various input (mainly O2 reading) and change the fueling to try to reach whatever target AFR I have set vs what AFR it "sees" from the wideband. It will do that whenever the engine is above 158 degrees and above 600 RPM and more than 20% load, but will NOT make changes if my TPS is higher than 70% or load is above 90%, etc.
Hope that helps.
I left the authority low until autotune gets a few shots at it. I run the red truck on a table, the white truck at a fixed 10%. The white truck's tune is close enough that I usually don't see more than 5-6% correction, and that's in cold, damp weather.
No problem!
One thing to keep in mind, most of the defaults are fine to begin with, don't feel every parameter needs to be changed. Best to start with a very basic file to get the truck to start and run then evaluate from there.
@Raymond_B and @Jamie V sobbed on your examples above do you recommend turning on the authority table on say first start/tuning of a boosted application, or waiting for Autotune to have a crack at it first, then turning on the authority tables to further fine tune? Next time I start my truck it will be boosted, so trying to figure out how I need to go about it. I already have a decent N/A tune over the last 2 years, but everything above 100kpa is still just Stinger base tune parameters. I'll only be running 2-4psi for the first drives until I get the tune a bit more figured out at first.