Popping on "tip in"

Well thanks to you guys I was able to find the injector test mode and found the culprit. Two of the pins in the brittle old 60 pin connector had backed out.as did a temp sensor wire.

I used my stethoscope to listen for the injectors to fire. All good there now. How ever I do have a couple of other issues.

At the bottom of the screen in Tuner Studio there is a blue bar and just to the right is what I believe to be the current tune. When opening the program this always displays "Trans_CurrentTune.MSQ" I have to go and select my named file each time I open it. Several times while setting up and cycling the ECU key off and back on the program would change from my named file to this file. I had to go back and choose the tuning file I wanted for the project. Is this normal?

Since our truck use a speed sensor located in the rear differential. While setting up the transmission controller I was not sure what information to enter for this type of set up. I left the settings that were in there alone and tested the speed and found it to be pretty far off base. I adjusted the "trans speed sensor teeth" setting from 3 to 12, and now the speedometer is reading the same as the trans controller. Is this set up acceptable?
 
Once you're working, it will be saving both the ECU tune and the trans tune as "CurrentTune" and "TransCurrentTune." You don't have to keep reloading an external tune file, otherwise you're reloading over your changes. You have to tell it to save to a different file name, and that's just a one-time save.

I don't have my tunes here at work, but I believe that 12 is the correct tooth count. I haven't had to mess with any of the setup stuff in quite a while.

Keep in mind that the trans/vss stuff in the main tune is irrelevant. Only the settings in the trans tune section matter. The rest is communicated to the main program from the trans controller via the internal CANbus (and vice versa - information like RPM and TPS are sent to the trans controller via CANbus).

Edit - Maybe that's not the case since the VSS does pass through the main program... But things like gear, trans temp, etc does come back through the CANbus.
 
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I split the wire for the USB adapter and flip flopped the leads, and it works fine.

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I believe 3 tooth sensor is correct... at least that's what mine is set to and it's mostly accurate. Mine seems to be 5mph slow when anything faster than 15-20mph. I've played with the "Wheel diameter" field and that's as close as I could ever get it. My actual diameter is closer to 27.5" though.

Wouldn't "Input Sensor Teeth" field need to be the one changed instead of "Trans Sensor Teeth" though? I've never counted the teeth on it so not sure if 31 is correct.


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Good to know, my transtune file they sent was setup right. I run stock wheels/tires so I didn’t have to change anything- but I haven’t had it past 2nd on the jack stands.
 
FMOS Racing said:
I split the wire for the USB adapter and flip flopped the leads, and it works fine.

Sent from my motorola edge plus 5G UW (2022) using Tapatalk
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In my case there was a Green Wire, Red Wire, and an Orange Wire. I traced the leads out with ohm meter and found that the collar of the 2.5mm audio jack was connected to the green. Since we were told that the tip and the center were wrong I decided to switch the Red and the Orange. Works good now.

Now that the thing runs, shifts and the speed on the ECU reads the same as my speedometer I am ready to go drive it. I want to load the tune you sent and start there. Baby steps. Gentle ride, and see how things look.
 
Required said:
Good to know, my transtune file they sent was setup right. I run stock wheels/tires so I didn’t have to change anything- but I haven’t had it past 2nd on the jack stands.
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I am running 390/40 17s. Just under 30" diameter. My speedometer was pretty close to the everything I had ever checked it to before. In my case the ECU was way off from the speedometer. I didn't want to mess with the gear ratio or the tire size since they are correct. I went with the tooth count so that going forward if I change tire or gear size, all I should have to do is enter the new values. I checked the reading across a wide range of speeds and it held accurate.

I mentioned this to the guys at Stinger and got a thumbs up response.
 
Mavdaddy said:
I am running 390/40 17s. Just under 30" diameter. My speedometer was pretty close to the everything I had ever checked it to before. In my case the ECU was way off from the speedometer. I didn't want to mess with the gear ratio or the tire size since they are correct. I went with the tooth count so that going forward if I change tire or gear size, all I should have to do is enter the new values. I checked the reading across a wide range of speeds and it held accurate.

I mentioned this to the guys at Stinger and got a thumbs up response.
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So the only thing you changed was “Trans speed sensor”? I may have to try that as it’s annoying to be 5mph off at higher speeds.


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FWIW, I checked my settings this morning and they're 31/3. All I've done is changed my tire size and rear ratio.

Which bears mentioning - mine is 3.73 instead of the 4.10.
 
core-rider said:
So the only thing you changed was “Trans speed sensor”? I may have to try that as it’s annoying to be 5mph off at higher speeds.


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Yes sir. That was what came out to be the most accurate for my set up.

Changed from 3 to 12. I haven't driven it yet. Like dummy I started this project with only a small amount of fuel in the tank. All the idling time and set up had me on fumes. Had to run get a jerry can of fuel to make sure I didn't run out.

I hope to go tool around in it some tonight.
 
Well the weather was crap, but I decided to go drive it anyway. That is what they make soap for right?

At first it was a little hesitant. It had a slight stumble off the idle but manageable. I drove, and a buddy of mine who has trained at Holley and uses the Terminator platform was in the passenger seat tweaking things with the lap top. The first mile or so in the neighborhood stopping and starting saw gradual improvement. Then he said "roll in and see if it still pops", I did, and it popped! I was about to loose my shit when he (knowing me for so long) looked over and said "stay calm we are just getting started". After only a couple of adjustments to the Accel-enrichment settings that thing woke up and ran like it has never run. Throttle and power was extremely linear.

Wet roads were a blessing because it made it easier to resist beating on it. We only briefly saw any boost (less than 3 lbs) and it told us what we needed to know to get things headed toward being dialed in.

We should have better weather this weekend and plan to fill up on fuel and take it for a long drive. Lap top and buddy in tow.

This has has been a struggle for quite a while. I had so many suggestions from well meaning folks along the way but it took my First Gen Lightning family to get me headed in the right direction. Thank you Jeff (FMOS Racing) for chiming in and getting this thing started. And thanks to all of you that have given good advise, and gone so far to research and send information.
 
Mavdaddy said:
Well the weather was crap, but I decided to go drive it anyway. That is what they make soap for right?

At first it was a little hesitant. It had a slight stumble off the idle but manageable. I drove, and a buddy of mine who has trained at Holley and uses the Terminator platform was in the passenger seat tweaking things with the lap top. The first mile or so in the neighborhood stopping and starting saw gradual improvement. Then he said "roll in and see if it still pops", I did, and it popped! I was about to loose my shit when he (knowing me for so long) looked over and said "stay calm we are just getting started". After only a couple of adjustments to the Accel-enrichment settings that thing woke up and ran like it has never run. Throttle and power was extremely linear.

Wet roads were a blessing because it made it easier to resist beating on it. We only briefly saw any boost (less than 3 lbs) and it told us what we needed to know to get things headed toward being dialed in.

We should have better weather this weekend and plan to fill up on fuel and take it for a long drive. Lap top and buddy in tow.

This has has been a struggle for quite a while. I had so many suggestions from well meaning folks along the way but it took my First Gen Lightning family to get me headed in the right direction. Thank you Jeff (FMOS Racing) for chiming in and getting this thing started. And thanks to all of you that have given good advise, and gone so far to research and send information.
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A Co-Pilot is an excellent idea. I need to find one.
 
Mavdaddy said:
Well the weather was crap, but I decided to go drive it anyway. That is what they make soap for right?

At first it was a little hesitant. It had a slight stumble off the idle but manageable. I drove, and a buddy of mine who has trained at Holley and uses the Terminator platform was in the passenger seat tweaking things with the lap top. The first mile or so in the neighborhood stopping and starting saw gradual improvement. Then he said "roll in and see if it still pops", I did, and it popped! I was about to loose my shit when he (knowing me for so long) looked over and said "stay calm we are just getting started". After only a couple of adjustments to the Accel-enrichment settings that thing woke up and ran like it has never run. Throttle and power was extremely linear.

Wet roads were a blessing because it made it easier to resist beating on it. We only briefly saw any boost (less than 3 lbs) and it told us what we needed to know to get things headed toward being dialed in.

We should have better weather this weekend and plan to fill up on fuel and take it for a long drive. Lap top and buddy in tow.

This has has been a struggle for quite a while. I had so many suggestions from well meaning folks along the way but it took my First Gen Lightning family to get me headed in the right direction. Thank you Jeff (FMOS Racing) for chiming in and getting this thing started. And thanks to all of you that have given good advise, and gone so far to research and send information.
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This is where the addiction to "perfect" as much as possible starts. I still routinely pull out the laptop in search for that "subtle" tweak that the passenger probably wouldn't even notice and I've had my ecu since 2016 (granted a few of different combos)

Glad your making some headway. A buddy thats familiar with tuning is a good asset to have but don't let him do to much without explaining what hes doing so you can learn along the way.
 
FlatOut said:
This is where the addiction to "perfect" as much as possible starts. I still routinely pull out the laptop in search for that "subtle" tweak that the passenger probably wouldn't even notice and I've had my ecu since 2016 (granted a few of different combos)

Glad your making some headway. A buddy thats familiar with tuning is a good asset to have but don't let him do to much without explaining what hes doing so you can learn along the way.
Click to expand...
Great point....

I was looking through the last restore point and the original tune this morning and noticed he changed the AE from TPSdot% to Accel Pump. I can find all kinds of info on TPSdot% but nothing on the Accel pump strategy.
 
Mavdaddy said:
Great point....

I was looking through the last restore point and the original tune this morning and noticed he changed the AE from TPSdot% to Accel Pump. I can find all kinds of info on TPSdot% but nothing on the Accel pump strategy.
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I prefer that strategy because it mimics what a carb accel pump does. You basically setup how much fuel is added based on the rate of throttle change (TPSdot). When I first went E85 I had some pretty bad spots on quick throttle tip ins, even after adding 30%. This item is pretty seat of the pants, you're tuning until the truck "feels" most responsive on quick throttle stabs, but you do not want too much accel enrich (AE) either. Data logs will help to validate, but unlike WOT tuning for instance you'll never get a nice smooth AFR by its nature it will be "spikey". Again you go by how the truck feels (responsiveness).
 
I had to change mine to accel pump as well. Couldn't get tps dot or map dot to work well enough. The best way to do it is just sit in driveway in gear and give it a stab of throttle. Can get it pretty well dialed in without leaving the house.

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So interesting. I use time-based AE and haven't had any issues. I get exactly the behavior I want with a downward spike and then taper in A:F when I give it throttle.
 
FMOS Racing said:
So interesting. I use time-based AE and haven't had any issues. I get exactly the behavior I want with a downward spike and then taper in A:F when I give it throttle.
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To be clear I never had issues with the time based AE because never tried it :) I can relate much better to the accel pump method so that's what I used.
 
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