Popping on "tip in"

[FMOS Racing]

Regarding the gauge install, get the expansion port with the communications plug and the canbus connectors (you may be using a lot more of the expansion port, @slow94 , since you've gone CNP). After that, for the gauge, it's power, ground, and those two wires. It will also take inputs from up to five other 0-5V sources and send those back to the ECU via canbus, if you ever choose to add additional sensors.

I have mine in a single gauge pod two-sided-taped to the A-pillar. I'll grab a picture shortly. I didn't want to make any holes in the interior (ironic on my beater 285K mile truck), so I didn't try to do a super clean install.

 

[FMOS Racing]

Here's a few pictures of some of the displays. Most are configurable. The black angled bands are from the LED refresh. It's an OLED display, so it's a nice, sharp graph in person. Tapa's compression makes things a bit grainy.

The "V" in the horizontal graph (AFR) in this picture is from a throttle blip to show the scrolling time.

 

[slow94]

Regarding the gauge install, get the expansion port with the communications plug and the canbus connectors (you may be using a lot more of the expansion port, @slow94 , since you've gone CNP). After that, for the gauge, it's power, ground, and those two wires. It will also take inputs from up to five other 0-5V sources and send those back to the ECU via canbus, if you ever choose to add additional sensors.

I have mine in a single gauge pod two-sided-taped to the A-pillar. I'll grab a picture shortly. I didn't want to make any holes in the interior (ironic on my beater 285K mile truck), so I didn't try to do a super clean install.

Cool, yeah I have a full expansion harness. I believe I use the communication plug for my laptop when tuning so I'm assuming the gauge would have to be unplugged when I tune. Definitely interested in having all that data live when I'm in the truck without needing the laptop.

Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk

 

[FMOS Racing]

No, it's separate leads for the CANbus.

 

[slow94]

No, it's separate leads for the CANbus.

Gotcha.. I'm looking into the DDEFI dash also because you can tune on it also. However I don't want to actually use it as a dash. Just want the screen and find a place to mount. Just want some live readout without having the laptop in truck.

Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk

 

[Raymond_B]

Gotcha.. I'm looking into the DDEFI dash also because you can tune on it also. However I don't want to actually use it as a dash. Just want the screen and find a place to mount. Just want some live readout without having the laptop in truck.

Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk

Before you throw down on a DDEFI dash that you'll only be using as a screen check out this new Tuner Studio software TS Dash http://tunerstudio.com/index.php/products/ts-dash

 

[slow94]

Before you throw down on a DDEFI dash that you'll only be using as a screen check out this new Tuner Studio software TS Dash http://tunerstudio.com/index.php/products/ts-dash

That's interesting for sure. However I would still need a laptop to tune it with which is not a deal breaker by any means. It appears with the DDEFI dash I can use a wireless keyboard and mouse to tune on their dash or they can install a touch screen to it. My only question ( and I will call them), is if they support the pimpxshift. We are unique in that we have 2 microsquirt controllers. Their website doesn't list that but I would think it would be ok.

Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk

 

[Mavdaddy]

So far the folks at Stinger are pretty helpful. I sent a message with a few of my questions and they called me back with in a couple of hours. He was very patient and answered all of my questions thoroughly. I ordered the PiMPxshift. It is processing and hasn't shipped yet so in the mean time I am getting the old Pro-M system out and building my injector harness.

Can someone confirm for me that we use the EV1 type connectors? My Pro-M used a round ten pin connector but I may buy a Deutsch or something else and just run all new wire. Ford used 18 AWG but all of the connectors I am finding so far are designed for 20 AWG.

The hunt and grind begins.

 

[FMOS Racing]

Are you converting to sequential? If so, you can remove the smog wiring from the engine harness (the one under the fuse box) and wire in the injector leads there. At least that's what I did. It makes for a clean install.

I'd converted my '95 to sequential well before changing to the PxS. My '94 is still batch-fire. The factory-style injectors are EV1.

 

[core-rider]

Are you converting to sequential? If so, you can remove the smog wiring from the engine harness (the one under the fuse box) and wire in the injector leads there. At least that's what I did. It makes for a clean install.

I'd converted my '95 to sequential well before changing to the PxS. My '94 is still batch-fire. The factory-style injectors are EV1.

Do you have more details on this… like which wires to remove or do you just repin/reuse the existing smog wiring for use with the injectors? I want to convert eventually and have been trying to figure out the cleanest/easiest way to go about it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[FMOS Racing]

It's been a few years. Somewhere I some some sketches that I used to make notes. I'll see if I can find those and scan them.

For the leads from the harness connector to the ECU, I moved the 60-pin end to match up with the injector ground switches and the supplied power. For the engine side, I used the leads from a Mustang injector harness (which is how I had originally changed to sequential), cut them to length, and used weather-proof crimp connectors.

There are two different-sized pins in the harness, and I used the larger gauge for the 12v.

I think there were a couple of positions that I drilled as well. Hopefully I have those notes.

 

[Mavdaddy]

Are you converting to sequential? If so, you can remove the smog wiring from the engine harness (the one under the fuse box) and wire in the injector leads there. At least that's what I did. It makes for a clean install.

I'd converted my '95 to sequential well before changing to the PxS. My '94 is still batch-fire. The factory-style injectors are EV1.

I changed to sequential back when I did the Pro-M conversion. My kit came with a harness that had a ten pin connector that was intended to simply overlay the factory harness. Unfortunately I never do anything the easy way. I wanted a cleaner look so I unwrapped everything, pulled out the factory injector wiring. Then I re-loomed it with the other the factory stuff. Long story short... I changed everything and will likely have to start over. All of the smog stuff was removed back then.

I figure I can just pin the ECU 60 pin plug per the instructions provided by Stinger. Then run those wires to a ten pin connector, and connect that to my current injector harness plug. Unfortunately I am not sure how to get new pins for this old injector harness connector, or where to get a new ten pin connector that will except 18 AWG wire. The search continues.

 

[FlatOut]

your definitely on the right track. I'm not familiar with the Pro-M conversion but getting the injector wiring from that 10 pin connector to the correct placement on the 60 pin is all you should need for sequential. (if those 10 wires go to the 60 pin now they will most likely be in the correct spot already). That and move a couple wires around as explained in the included instructions and you should be in business. I went from a A9L maf conversion with an overlay harness straight to the stinger ECU for sequential and it was a breeze.

 

[Mavdaddy]

your definitely on the right track. I'm not familiar with the Pro-M conversion but getting the injector wiring from that 10 pin connector to the correct placement on the 60 pin is all you should need for sequential. (if those 10 wires go to the 60 pin now they will most likely be in the correct spot already). That and move a couple wires around as explained in the included instructions and you should be in business. I went from a A9L maf conversion with an overlay harness straight to the stinger ECU for sequential and it was a breeze.

Really looking forward to doing this upgrade. Working on the harness this weekend.

 

[lightn95]

Youll prob have a hard time finding new pins that are the same as the ones in the 60 pin. I went to a junk yard and got a complete 60 pin harness from a f150, that wasnt cut up anywhere. And pulled the wires from that to use.

 

[FMOS Racing]

I've kept any pins I've removed from anything I've messed with so that I have them for changes. Have to crimp-splice at some point, but at least I have the connectors.

 

[sstock]

That's lean tip in, it's not getting enough accel fuel. Edit - I thought the MAP wasn't used, but the A9L does use it for BARO.

With the combo you have, I'd sure recommend a wide band O2 sensor and gauge!

I agree with Jeff, to start sorting anything out with a combo like yours you need real time diagnostics. Everything else is speculative.

 

[Mavdaddy]

Well the PMPxshift ("i" left out intentionally) arrived yesterday.

I took your advise (Jeff) and used unused wires in the engine harness connector to connect the extra injectors. Made all of the pin out mods to the 60 pin connector last week. I just have to wire up the new O2 sensors, install the jumpers, stab the ECU back into the factory hanger, and supply manifold pressure/vacuum line.

I am still a little intimidated by the computer interface and tuning side of things. BUT HERE WE GO!

 

[Required]

Well the PMPxshift ("i" left out intentionally) arrived yesterday.

I took your advise (Jeff) and used unused wires in the engine harness connector to connect the extra injectors. Made all of the pin out mods to the 60 pin connector last week. I just have to wire up the new O2 sensors, install the jumpers, stab the ECU back into the factory hanger, and supply manifold pressure/vacuum line.

I am still a little intimidated by the computer interface and tuning side of things. BUT HERE WE GO!

I’m lurking this thread since I’m doing the same PxShift install right now. Exciting!

 

[Mavdaddy]

Can some one fill me in on the correct jumper for my Tach? Is it 5 volt or 12 volt?