Getting the Red/Black 93 Back on the Road?

A few years ago I had a pesky coolant leak that took me a while to find. It was leaking between the timing cover and block on the drivers side. It would make its way down to the oil pan rail. My leak was a lot smaller than yours though.

Sent from my SM-A205U using Tapatalk
 
Time to quit beating around the bush, get the engine out and have it gone through. I'd like some opinions on the plan. I talked to a good “local” speed shop, they do it all from dyno tuning, to full builds, to fab work. They even still tune EEC-IV!

The Plan:
• Pull engine
• Tear down, have gone through, replace all gaskets, check deck, head mating surfaces
• Have new custom cam ground (is Cam Motion still the go-to guys for custom roller cams?)
• Replace intake with TFS-R, (or Edlebrock)?
• Have headers recoated
• Dyno tune w/existing MAF setup

A little background: truck currently has a 395" stroker (393 with an additional .010 overbore), Canfield heads, welded/ported GT-40 intake, 75mm body, 30lb injectors, PMAS Mass Air, Bauman TCS, 2600 stall converter, MAC 1.75" long tubes (Dave P), custom Cam Motion cam 228*/.553 intake & 227*/.541, custom external fuel system. After installing the mass-air kit the truck dyno'ed at 325HP @ 4700 rpm & 379ft-lb @ 3900 rpm.

After talking to the owner of the shop he thinks its the cam and intake that are the bottlenecks. He has a 393 w/Canfield heads and solid roller that has run 8.90's in a back-halved Maverick (plus a 1000+ hp Coyote Mustang), he thinks I should stick with the Canfield heads. His thoughts are to cam it to spinning it to 6-6500 rpm and putting a larger cam and better intake in, but keep everything else the same. Also, keep the mass air and see how well it behaves after a day on the dyno. For a street/strip truck would I really want to turn it over 6k?

Surprisingly he suggested I pull the motor and bring it to him. Then pick up and reinstall and once done bring the truck to him for final tweaks and dyno tuning. He’d charge $1200-1500 to R&R the engine. I asked around and found a good shop that will R&R the engine for $590 if I supply all parts and fluids. I know I should do it myself, but I really don't like working under cars on stands. I should have a written estimate from the performance shop by mid-week.
 
i personally wouldn't turn it over 5600 rpm, maybe even a little less. not much to be gained for the added risk for your mainly street and a little strip use. just my perspective, i'm conservative in my old age.
 
bobwhite said:
i personally wouldn't turn it over 5600 rpm, maybe even a little less. not much to be gained for the added risk for your mainly street and a little strip use. just my perspective, i'm conservative in my old age.
Click to expand...

What is the real danger of turning it 6000 rpm? I believe I have the fuel and spark to support it, the shortblock should able to handle much more than that. Is the main concern in the valve train, or is it more the trans being able to handle it?
 
I think that sounds like a good plan, Chuck. You have enough stall to be happy with moving the rpm range up six or seven hundred. You'll definitely want an intake with that many cubes if you're going to turn in that hard and the R is a good choice.

The GT40 works fine with boost and a mid-5s top to the rpm band, but that many inches and rpms, it's beyond done.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
 
If that performance shop has a good reputation then just take the truck to him and have it all done. That way if any connectors, wiring, etc,etc are not right or other items you're not running back and forth between two shops each pointing the finger at the other. Rather than worrying about RPM at the moment I'd focus on what you want out of the truck. I believe you want a fun street truck, and to me that means getting parts that make good responsive well behaved low end and mid range power.
 
FMOS Racing said:
I think that sounds like a good plan, Chuck. You have enough stall to be happy with moving the rpm range up six or seven hundred. You'll definitely want an intake with that many cubes if you're going to turn in that hard and the R is a good choice.

The GT40 works fine with boost and a mid-5s top to the rpm band, but that many inches and rpms, it's beyond done.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Do you have recommendations for intake? Choices are (?) the Edlebrock Victor, TFS-R & TFS Box-R, and Holley Hi-Ram. The Victor's runners seem to short, the Box-R Seems designed for blown or High rpm, same for the Hi-Ram. The TFS site says for the TFS-R use the 75mm version for 1500-5500, and
the 90mm version for 2000-7000rpm. Which would I want? My MAF is 75mm.

I currently have 30lb injectors, for 500hp I think I need more like a 39lb or 42 lb, correct? If I kept the existing MAF (PMAS) can it be recalibrated for larger injectors, or best to replace it?


Raymond_B said:
If that performance shop has a good reputation then just take the truck to him and have it all done. That way if any connectors, wiring, etc,etc are not right or other items you're not running back and forth between two shops each pointing the finger at the other. Rather than worrying about RPM at the moment I'd focus on what you want out of the truck. I believe you want a fun street truck, and to me that means getting parts that make good responsive well behaved low end and mid range power.
Click to expand...

I want a fun street truck that will also turn respectable ET's at the track compared to modern cars. I imagine, and I hope you will correct me if I'm wrong, That unless I do something crazy this large of a motor with a long runner intake will still make good torque in the low to mid range which would make it fun on the street?

You make a great point about the 2 different shops doing overlapping work. I hadn't thought about all of that. The Speed Shop owner is going to send me a written estimate for doing everything this coming week and we'll go from there. I'm remembering VERY quickly how expensive this hobby is! :blink:

What I'm thinking of now, to partially redeem myself :) , is I'll do all the tear down (down to the long block) and reassembly (intake, wiring, plumbing), but will still have Shop B pull and then install the long block and headers since that is the part I don't really want to deal with, and they are literally 3 miles away. Or, I talk the wife into going along with putting a lift in the garage, hmmm? :headscratch:

- - - Updated - - -

Where is a good place to find used parts like intakes, injectors, etc? eBay seems all but useless now.
 
Corral.net is where I find all of my good used stuff. I went with the 90mm version of the TFS R with the 90mm Accufab TB. Room for growth later without re-buying anything.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I'd personally go with the 90mm long runner R on a naturally aspirated stroker in our trucks. It'll be a bit twitchy at really low throttle angles, but you'll get used to it and the converter will soften it.

I need to post a few things over on corral.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
 
lightngsvt said:
What is the real danger of turning it 6000 rpm? I believe I have the fuel and spark to support it, the shortblock should able to handle much more than that. Is the main concern in the valve train, or is it more the trans being able to handle it?
Click to expand...

if that's what you want to do, go for it, whatever makes you happy :heart: . just be sure your valve springs which have been sitting stagnant for years (some of them completely or partially compressed for long periods of time) are still adequate and your hydraulic roller lifters (won't collapse, etc.) are quality stuff and up to the task of a more radical cam and higher rpm.
 
Going from a GT40 to a TFS-R 75mm made a big difference on my truck although I didn’t dyno directly after. But at 357” I made 315 at 4700rpm with the GT40 and a XE274HR. Same dyno TFS-R and a custom roller cam it made 351 at 5700. Also with the GT40 the HP dropped fast over 5k.

It now has a 3rd cam that has more duration and I spin it to 63-6400 and it sees 95% street use.
 
I definitely don't Facebook and won't ever. So it'll be the corral for me!

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
 
U are definitely missing out.

I buy and move alot of stuff via Facebook


Don't add people. Just do the sites themselves




Sold a white 95 L

Had multiple peeps from Cali, Texas, Washington state, Alabama. Wanting it. It ended up going to Michigan

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 
Doesn't matter. I'm one of those Luddites who has an issue with the whole concept of social engineering. I'm perfectly happy missing out!

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
 
To be honest I watch eBay for the rare jewel that pops up, Facebook (several groups that sell parts), Craigslist, and NLOC. Facebook has a lot of risk IMHO, but use PayPal and *NEVER* use friends and family to pay unless they truly are! Craigslist can be risky in many ways, but that's why Mr Smith & Wesson and a friend always go with me and we meet in a public place.
 
ASAP said:
Corral.net is where I find all of my good used stuff. I went with the 90mm version of the TFS R with the 90mm Accufab TB. Room for growth later without re-buying anything.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info! Are you running MAF, or SD? Which meter if MAF?


FMOS Racing said:
I'd personally go with the 90mm long runner R on a naturally aspirated stroker in our trucks. It'll be a bit twitchy at really low throttle angles, but you'll get used to it and the converter will soften it.
Click to expand...

Copy that. Should I also plan to change the MAF? Injectors?


bobwhite said:
if that's what you want to do, go for it, whatever makes you happy :heart: . just be sure your valve springs which have been sitting stagnant for years (some of them completely or partially compressed for long periods of time) are still adequate and your hydraulic roller lifters (won't collapse, etc.) are quality stuff and up to the task of a more radical cam and higher rpm.
Click to expand...

Great points! But when its torn down the owner/engine builder is going to go through the heads. Depending on the cam, we may have to replace springs anyway.


droppedf100 said:
Going from a GT40 to a TFS-R 75mm made a big difference on my truck although I didn’t dyno directly after. But at 357” I made 315 at 4700rpm with the GT40 and a XE274HR. Same dyno TFS-R and a custom roller cam it made 351 at 5700. Also with the GT40 the HP dropped fast over 5k.

It now has a 3rd cam that has more duration and I spin it to 63-6400 and it sees 95% street use.
Click to expand...

Wow, 1000 more rpm and almost 40hp and that's with the 75mm. How does it feel/drive on the street since you have a higher room combo?


lightning_2000 said:
I buy and move alot of stuff via Facebook

Don't add people. Just do the sites themselves
Click to expand...

What particular groups have you had good luck with? I use FB a little bit, mainly for various groups, I don't put up hardly any personal crap.


Raymond_B said:
To be honest I watch eBay for the rare jewel that pops up, Facebook (several groups that sell parts), Craigslist, and NLOC. Facebook has a lot of risk IMHO, but use PayPal and *NEVER* use friends and family to pay unless they truly are! Craigslist can be risky in many ways, but that's why Mr Smith & Wesson and a friend always go with me and we meet in a public place.
Click to expand...

I've used Craigslist in the past, never had an issue. But being a bit more "mature" these days, I just stay away from CL, not worth the risk. I feel more comfortable when I can have something shipped, and using Paypal does offer some protections too.

I see you come very prepared Raymond! I recently went with a friend to go look at a car from FB Marketpalce, but we didn't have Mr Smith, or Mr Wesson w/us. Turned out fine, guy was legit and we met at a gas station.
 
I do come prepared, I'm too old to mess around LOL.

Honestly because you're naturally aspirated those injectors and MAF might go pretty far. I wouldn't swap them until your guy gets it on the dyno and data logs. I'll let the other smart guys talk to you about the motor parts :)
 
I always met in a bank parking lot during business hours to conduct Craigslist transactions. Lots of video surveillance and other people,ATM right there if they "forgot" that extra $50 they agreed to, etc. I've bought and sold several vehicles and lots of parts through CL.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
 
Raymond_B said:
I do come prepared, I'm too old to mess around LOL.

Honestly because you're naturally aspirated those injectors and MAF might go pretty far. I wouldn't swap them until your guy gets it on the dyno and data logs. I'll let the other smart guys talk to you about the motor parts :)
Click to expand...

Youre right, the KISS method. I'll have to talk to the builder and see hat his turn around time is on parts, I don't really want it sitting for months on end.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top