Getting the Red/Black 93 Back on the Road?

lightngsvt

3rd engine in 50 miles!!!
I Support the NLOC
So its been a while since Ive posted. Ive recently caught the bug again to get my red/black 93 back on the street/strip, its basically been sitting for 15+ years in the garage, under a cover. As you can imagine its got some issues:

*Rear main leak
*coolant leak (while sitting collecting in the same drip pan as the oil from the rear main)
*phantom power draw that will kill a battery if left sitting and connected (all the electrical seem to work fine when the truck is running)
*loud vacuum leak that may be more that just a vacuum line
*possible exhaust leaks, but this could be in my head
*It runs like crap, especially on cold start. This is pretty certainly due to poor tuning
*Would like to reinstall the front sway bar

I PM'ed Jamie and he wisely suggesting posting to the group for the collective wisdom. So here I am. Honestly, I've been thinking of taking it somewhere and having all the work done and sucking up the (large) bill just to be done with it, but surprisingly few shops, in MI at least, will touch it. Its in that weird to old so we cant work on it, but to new for the muscle cars shops.

About the truck: Its a stock block stroker (now 395"), forged domed pistons I bought off of Jeff S. many years ago, a custom roller cam, Canfield heads, welded and ported GT40 intake (bad, bad decision), 70mm body, PMAS Mass-air conversion using a Mustang EEC-IV w/75mm meter, Stock trans w/shift kit, Baumann TCS and custom converter, Custom external fuel system, 30lb injectors? (red top), and exhaust from Dave P (modified long tubes and side exist exhaust. Suspension is a 3/4 drop w/Bilstein shocks and LFP long bars.

https://share.icloud.com/photos/0WNrY6WGkJ73ewm_EXDQTXc8w
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0-W6yFsOD0O1QMqEqacaMGGxg

My goal was/is running 12's on drag radials NA (maybe mid 11's boosted eventually).

I've been concerned the raised ports on the Canfield heads might be an issue, causing fit issues with the exhaust, and Im not sure the angle of the heads 100% matches the stock lower intake. TFS heads might (and intake?) be a worthwhile swap.

A more modern EFI (Holley, or PimpxShift) might be a wise investment. Almost nobody still tunes EEC-IV professionally. I know there are options if you want to tune yourself. I had the fuel system done, and Im not really happy with some parts of how they ran the lines

The good:
1. The body, interior, rear end, driveshaft, trans and bottom end are all good as far as I know. Its a very solid truck, as it should be for having only 30k miles.
2. The truck runs and is drivable


The bad:
1. See aabove
2. Since its been many years since Ive wrenched on this thing, I feel a bit nervous about doing the work. I did most of it when I was younger, was even a certified mechanic for a short time when I was young, but the past (many) years I've either been playing with basically stock "sport cars" for (road) track days, or various Harleys with bolt on's (shocks, stage 1 kit, mufflers, trim, etc), so no real wrenching.

Based on what you're reading, what do you think I should do? What would you do if it was your truck?

0-W6yFsOD0O1QMqEqacaMGGxg
 
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I will take some pictures of that I did for the front swaybar.

Are you sure given the coolant leak that both the oil and the coolant aren't coming from the lower intake to block/heads?

Vacuum leak.

Running like crap on start up..

I'd start with new intake gaskets. That could potentially fix every one of those problems.

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i think i would just take my time and address things slowly, sort of "how do you eat an elephant, one bite at a time." you're just a little rusty with the wrenching, it will come back to you. simply offering a perspective. FMOS has a good idea where to start. vacuum leaks could also be at one of the many oem colored plastic vacuum lines that are notorious for splitting or crumbling (especially the white one), vac line to the fuel press reg split, loose fitting pcv valve/grommet in lower intake, vacuum hose at charcoal canister nipple split or rotted off, split vac caps on vacuum tree at rear of intake manifold or the egr and/or tab solenoid vacuum diaphragms are split and leaking. all of these have leaked before on mine.
 
Good advice from the guys as always. I would head down to the auto parts store and see if you can rent a cooling system pressure tester. That would help track down the source of the coolant leak before tearing in to the motor.
 
I could help you with it but I’m in Ga and I’ve got to finish mine first.


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For what it’s worth I have a somewhat similar set up but with AFR heads and trick flow R upper and lower. Running mid 12s on drag radials N/A. MAF on a tuned A9L EEC. So I think your goals are realistic. I agree with above advise! One bite at a time. Exhaust leak can make one run bad with the MAF system. I would try to fix all leaks first then worry with any tuning issues if there are any at that point.


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I will take some pictures of that I did for the front swaybar.

Are you sure given the coolant leak that both the oil and the coolant aren't coming from the lower intake to block/heads?

Vacuum leak.

Running like crap on start up..

I'd start with new intake gaskets. That could potentially fix every one of those problems.

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Do the Canfields use stock intake port location? I know the exhaust ports are raised and I think they are leaking (see link/pic). The lower intake has been welded and ported, I wonder if that could've warped the mating surface? Even if the intake could be milled, wouldn't it change the dimension which would affect the sealing?

Header leak pic: https://www.dropbox.com/s/purisymyagdtmui/DRside_Header.jpg?dl=0

Whats the trick to posting pics here? Does it just not like Chrome? Ive tried insetering pics from my Mac, Dropbox, and iCloud but the
 
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i think i would just take my time and address things slowly, sort of "how do you eat an elephant, one bite at a time." you're just a little rusty with the wrenching, it will come back to you. simply offering a perspective. FMOS has a good idea where to start. vacuum leaks could also be at one of the many oem colored plastic vacuum lines that are notorious for splitting or crumbling (especially the white one), vac line to the fuel press reg split, loose fitting pcv valve/grommet in lower intake, vacuum hose at charcoal canister nipple split or rotted off, split vac caps on vacuum tree at rear of intake manifold or the egr and/or tab solenoid vacuum diaphragms are split and leaking. all of these have leaked before on mine.

Thanks for the advice, it helps to hear it. Given the age and the lack of miles, and the # of times its been apart I think a bad vacuum line would've been caught, but it is going on 27 years old :scared1: so the original lines could be very brittle. Ill try to root around in there tomorrow and see if anything is obviously lose.

Pic of reg: https://www.dropbox.com/s/gm8uy6awvbzihk2/Fuel_Pressure_Reg.jpg?dl=0
PIc of Vac Tree: https://www.dropbox.com/s/gtaz4bs8a8y5uew/Vacuum_Tree.jpg?dl=0
Video of truck running, you can hear the vacuum leak: [video]https://www.dropbox.com/s/zso38p14ihtpi4j/IMG_2751.mov?dl=0[/video]


Good advice from the guys as always. I would head down to the auto parts store and see if you can rent a cooling system pressure tester. That would help track down the source of the coolant leak before tearing in to the motor.

I hadn't thought of that, thanks! Good to see you again Raymond.


I could help you with it but I’m in Ga and I’ve got to finish mine first.

I appreciate the thought!


For what it’s worth I have a somewhat similar set up but with AFR heads and trick flow R upper and lower. Running mid 12s on drag radials N/A. MAF on a tuned A9L EEC. So I think your goals are realistic. I agree with above advise! One bite at a time. Exhaust leak can make one run bad with the MAF system. I would try to fix all leaks first then worry with any tuning issues if there are any at that point.

Wow, sounds like you actually accomplished what I planned to do! Nice! Which MA kit do you have? I have an A9M in mine, out of my 91 Mustang. I am really thinking the raised port Canfield heads, with the Dave P modified Mustang headers are just a bad combination and will never fit/seal 100% correctly. The pic I linked in my first reply shows what appears to be exhaust leaks around all of the exhaust ports.

What do you think of the TFS R intake? I see they still sell it and the Box-R, probably the only EFI SBF Ford intakes left other than the Holley Hi-Ram. I assume the upper can just be rotated 180* for the Lightning? How does the Holley compare to the R?

Heres a video of cold start: [video]https://www.dropbox.com/s/crjbohj33sun2bf/IMG_1120.mov?dl=0[/video]
 
since the high pitched vacuum leak type sound is so loud, you should be able to take about a 30" to 36" long 5/8" or 3/4" heater hose or similar hose and carefully place one end at different locations in the engine compartment with the engine running. place the other end near your ear. should be fairly easy to narrow down the location of the source of the leak noise. sort of a poor man's stethoscope. i've had good results using this method.
 
Is the idle air control valve working? You should have about 300 more rpm to start up on a cold start.

A:F looks good for a start. That initial "takes two hits of the key when cold" thing was pretty much the norm on mine with the A9L and big injectors. It takes some doing to get the initial injector hit just right but once the mass air reading takes over, it looks fine. Having to hit it twice because it's lean beats the daylights out of flooding it, though, so I wouldn't lose a lot of sleep over that quirk.
 
since the high pitched vacuum leak type sound is so loud, you should be able to take about a 30" to 36" long 5/8" or 3/4" heater hose or similar hose and carefully place one end at different locations in the engine compartment with the engine running. place the other end near your ear. should be fairly easy to narrow down the location of the source of the leak noise. sort of a poor man's stethoscope. i've had good results using this method.

So you think its more of an intake, or PVC leak than a hose? Thats where Im leaning. Ill go pick up some hose this weekend, and hopefully the coolant pressure tester, and see what I can find.


Is the idle air control valve working? You should have about 300 more rpm to start up on a cold start.

I don't know, how would I test it?
 
i can't say what the source of the noise is, but over the years i've been able to usually find the source of numerous noises with the rubber hose method. this is the approach i would use.
 
L[mention]lightngsvt [/mention]
I’m using the Ford Motorsport stand alone harness with a Granatelli MAF.
I would say that you definitely have exhaust leaks from the picture. I’ve had better luck from the copper crush gaskets than any of the other. I’m using Accufab long tube headers.
I can’t really speak to the TFS Intake compared to others because I don’t have much to compare it to, but I have very strong midrange power. With a 3600 stall it can always grab that power. The box R looks cool but is tuned for higher rpms. I understand that both of the TFS intakes can be situated to either side of the vehicle.


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The end link is from a 4x4 F250. I cut an inch and a half out of it and welded it back together at the lower eye.

The mounting of the bar I stole from all the much smarter people than me. The car does rub k on the upper sides of the mounting plate when the suspension compresses, so I need to cope it out a little at the upper edges.
3c33d471ce53a51cf5b835ef4a31f170.jpg
5e22accbe03637f4702ee75167df0b13.jpg


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how visible is that from the front on the truck? looks to be lowest part of the truck from that view.
 
The bottoms of the end links are level with the bottoms of the beams. It's the perspective that makes it look lower. I had intended to take another inch out of the the top part of the link, but there are some definite interference issues if the link is any shorter.

You can't see it at all from the front. You can see it a little in front of the tire from a narrow angle.



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