Getting the Red/Black 93 Back on the Road?
- Thread starter lightngsvt
- Start date
I personally didn't want the skid plate reversed like that. I figured if I was ever unlucky enough to hit something, it would change a rough impact into something extremely destructive.
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I made some time to look at the truck today, and what I saw wasn't good. 
I don't know if I hear a slight knock, or its my imagination? There is "steam" coming form the exhaust, I wouldn't exactly call it smoke, but I wouldn't expect to see the exhaust on a high-50* day thought it was humid. This thing is peeing out coolant like a drunken sailor when warmed up. But on the plus side I can say the IAC is working Jeff, LOL!
Pulling the IAC connector:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/rkvmxrmvhmtbedw/IMG_1163.mp4?dl=0
Exhaust:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3z2kiwkdnbhrg2c/IMG_1164.MOV?dl=0
Possible "knocking" sounds:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/j4lkvkl4n1z47m4/IMG_1162.mp4?dl=0
Coolant "faucet" (leaks):
https://www.dropbox.com/s/h2va9jvd86ykhls/IMG_1170.MOV?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/18qiklkne9oiooj/IMG_1172.mp4?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/m07795pxuq52k50/IMG_1174.MOV?dl=0
Instead of putting links to the pics I have taken as well, here's a link to the folder they are in.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/oitcxkywm2qede8/AACTrUjzDvqZM_A2haDeF_nGa?dl=0
So... exactly how screwed do you think I am? Are we talking call a Priest for last rights, or a band-aid or 2 and shell be good as new?
I don't know if I hear a slight knock, or its my imagination? There is "steam" coming form the exhaust, I wouldn't exactly call it smoke, but I wouldn't expect to see the exhaust on a high-50* day thought it was humid. This thing is peeing out coolant like a drunken sailor when warmed up. But on the plus side I can say the IAC is working Jeff, LOL! Pulling the IAC connector:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/rkvmxrmvhmtbedw/IMG_1163.mp4?dl=0
Exhaust:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3z2kiwkdnbhrg2c/IMG_1164.MOV?dl=0
Possible "knocking" sounds:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/j4lkvkl4n1z47m4/IMG_1162.mp4?dl=0
Coolant "faucet" (leaks):
https://www.dropbox.com/s/h2va9jvd86ykhls/IMG_1170.MOV?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/18qiklkne9oiooj/IMG_1172.mp4?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/m07795pxuq52k50/IMG_1174.MOV?dl=0
Instead of putting links to the pics I have taken as well, here's a link to the folder they are in.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/oitcxkywm2qede8/AACTrUjzDvqZM_A2haDeF_nGa?dl=0
So... exactly how screwed do you think I am? Are we talking call a Priest for last rights, or a band-aid or 2 and shell be good as new?
First thing is to warm it up, pull the iac, and give the idle screw a turn or two clockwise until it will idle pretty smoothly on its own around 700 rpms. Then plug the iac back in.
Vapor from the exhaust is just a byproduct of burning gas. You can see my truck doing the same thing on a warmer day in the video I posted on Raymond's topic. Probably not enough heat in the exhaust at idle to clear it.
The big problem is that puddle and since it's coming from both ends of the top of the motor, either there's something majorly wrong with the intake gaskets or there's a mismatch between heads and intake. The head to intake connection is really the only place at the back of motor that coolant can leak from assuming both of the plugs are tight in the intake.
I guess it could be a freeze plug on the back of the motor. I'd still lean towards the intake to heads because of the coolant on the water pump, if there isn't a visible leak at the thermostat.
It's possibly putting coolant in the oil, too, so I'd drain that asap.
I don't hear knock so if the sound is pretty slight, it's possibly piston slap. Short piston skirts and a long stroke, it's not uncommon. LSx motors and Ford 5.4s do it chronically from the factory. It should quiet down once warmed up.
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Vapor from the exhaust is just a byproduct of burning gas. You can see my truck doing the same thing on a warmer day in the video I posted on Raymond's topic. Probably not enough heat in the exhaust at idle to clear it.
The big problem is that puddle and since it's coming from both ends of the top of the motor, either there's something majorly wrong with the intake gaskets or there's a mismatch between heads and intake. The head to intake connection is really the only place at the back of motor that coolant can leak from assuming both of the plugs are tight in the intake.
I guess it could be a freeze plug on the back of the motor. I'd still lean towards the intake to heads because of the coolant on the water pump, if there isn't a visible leak at the thermostat.
It's possibly putting coolant in the oil, too, so I'd drain that asap.
I don't hear knock so if the sound is pretty slight, it's possibly piston slap. Short piston skirts and a long stroke, it's not uncommon. LSx motors and Ford 5.4s do it chronically from the factory. It should quiet down once warmed up.
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i listened to the knock with headphones. if you're talking about the sound that's like a diesel slightly clattering at idle, then i heard it. do you have forged pistons? if so, they're set-up with a little more clearance than cast pistons. if it disappears after fully warm, it's probably just piston slap like fmos said. i had a 302 that did this with forged pistons, except louder than yours at startup and was quiet when warm. if you have cast pistons, it still could be piston slap that should disappear when warm. the coolant leaks are probably coming from a gasket that's deteriorated while sitting stagnant for so long. you should be able to visually see the coolant coming out of the engine when idling, at that rate of leakage, if you can see the area (look around with a flashlight, small inspection mirror, etc.) check your oil to see if it's got water in it just to be safe. just some ideas.
droppedf100
Active member
The noise sounds very light almost like lifter noise to me which is very normal on hyd roller set ups.
And yeah on my truck the sway bar mount off the frame has to be reversed 180 as per the belltech directions. Mine is still like that even though I pulled the sway bar off. I haven’t had a problem and it honestly It still handles good with only a rear sway bar
And yeah on my truck the sway bar mount off the frame has to be reversed 180 as per the belltech directions. Mine is still like that even though I pulled the sway bar off. I haven’t had a problem and it honestly It still handles good with only a rear sway bar
I do have FMOS's old (very old?) forged pistons in the motor, so my hope is the short block is good at least. I really do wonder if there is a head/intake mismatch, I've never been 100% comfortable that things were perfect with the Canfields. But as mentioned, the gaskets could also just be deteriorating, because while the rear main oil leak has been there for years, the coolant leak is new within the past year (I noticed the coolant when pulling the truck out this spring). If its leaking at the intake/head junction, is it normal that it would leak while sitting and not running?
It is possibly weeping at the corners on both heads, there is evidence its been weeping at the front of the block on the pass side for a while.
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I posted a couple videos last night of the best view I could get. Would there be any benefit to pulling the upper intake and doing a pressure test on the cooling system to try and find the leak? I have the $279 testing kit from the local auto parts store "loaner" program. I cannot see the source with the truck intact.
It is possibly weeping at the corners on both heads, there is evidence its been weeping at the front of the block on the pass side for a while.
. . I posted a couple videos last night of the best view I could get. Would there be any benefit to pulling the upper intake and doing a pressure test on the cooling system to try and find the leak? I have the $279 testing kit from the local auto parts store "loaner" program. I cannot see the source with the truck intact.
Only old in terms of years, not in terms of miles! They weren't in my motor very long before I decided to go turbo.
It amuses me to think about how many different combos went through my engine compartment in the first 5 years I owned my truck. And how little it's changed in the last 20!
It amuses me to think about how many different combos went through my engine compartment in the first 5 years I owned my truck. And how little it's changed in the last 20!
And THAT is exactly where I want to be, do it right and enjoy it finally.
I tried to do a little more poking around today, I still didn't find the source of the leak(s?), but its pretty bad now. I refilled the radiator with water before starting it, and it took close too .75 gallons. Here is after running for 5 min +/-:
I tried to get some pics around the engine. I see signs of coolant running down the passenger side of the oil pan, looking from the top down at the back of both heads where they meet the intake appears dry to me. But looking up from underneath both sides of the rear of the block seems to be wet. There no chance the block is cracked?
Back of Drivers side head / intake
I checked the oil, it does need to be changed, but is clean. So doesn't look like a head gasket.
I was going to try to adjust the throttle per your recommendation Jeff, but its already maxed out as far as it can go. Do you think I could move the nut to the back side (throttle side) and that would give me play to adjust the set screw to give more RPM at ideal w//o the IAC connected?
I tried to get some pics around the engine. I see signs of coolant running down the passenger side of the oil pan, looking from the top down at the back of both heads where they meet the intake appears dry to me. But looking up from underneath both sides of the rear of the block seems to be wet. There no chance the block is cracked?
Back of Drivers side head / intake
I checked the oil, it does need to be changed, but is clean. So doesn't look like a head gasket.
I was going to try to adjust the throttle per your recommendation Jeff, but its already maxed out as far as it can go. Do you think I could move the nut to the back side (throttle side) and that would give me play to adjust the set screw to give more RPM at ideal w//o the IAC connected?
Here is the back of the passengers side head, and the bellhousing looking down, seems dry:
View attachment 39482 View attachment 39483
Heres some video from under the engine:
View attachment 39482 View attachment 39483
Heres some video from under the engine:
Heres one more video of the knock/slap/dieseling sound, Just making sure this is normal:
Seeing how many issues the truck has, its probably wise to fix the mechanicals first and worry about the tune second since its a runner. Cant really tune it anyway leaking a gallon of antifreeze every 10 minutes. No matter how I look at it, there's no way around the engine having to come out, right? Is it even worth more troubleshooting, or just start tearing into it (or have it sent out)?
Seeing how many issues the truck has, its probably wise to fix the mechanicals first and worry about the tune second since its a runner. Cant really tune it anyway leaking a gallon of antifreeze every 10 minutes. No matter how I look at it, there's no way around the engine having to come out, right? Is it even worth more troubleshooting, or just start tearing into it (or have it sent out)?
droppedf100
Active member
I had a similar noise to that ended up being the balanced was loose on the crank. Does it go away if you rev it or hold the rpm’s up?
I'm wracking my brain to remember, doesn't the Windsor have two freeze plugs inside the bell housing area of the block? All the pictures of my motor are from the front or side when I've had it out, and a quick Google didn't answer my question.
Jeff, no they don't have any freeze plugs in there. Just be on each side and in the GT 40 heads when it was stock.
I cant say for sure, but I only really notice that noise at idle, not really when lightly revving. It's odd that its not constant, but has sort of a rhythm to it.
Ive rewatched my video and is there any chance its leaking out the front of the passenger side head, running down the front of the block, then down along the oil pan rail and then running down the trans line?
Yes sir, I believe so. I put a pic of the dipstick up in post #32. Its not white or milky.