Truck wrecked

Been driving the truck and of course more issues pop up. Still got the vss issue that I'm pretty sure is a short somewhere because it only happens when I go over rough patches in the road. The vss tested good. I also checked the gauge cluster. It acts like its supposed to. Cruise and horn works. The airbag module is going bananas which I'm sure is from the 22 code. I checked the plug and wiring around the rear sensor and it looked good. Took it to the store earlier and the starter went out. I'll have it rebuilt in the morning and hopefully get back to the other 2 problems.

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I've done a good bit recently and still chipping away at issues. Put sound deadener throughout the back of the truck. Still need to do the roof. The panels had some horrible insulation on the back so they are staying out till I find a suitable replacement. Got the speakers working by removing all the stuff the po had ran. I will eventually get to putting what I want in. Put a motorcraft battery in along with bigger alternator, charge cable and battery cables. Replaced the radiator, added windstar fans and installed one of eds fan kits with the bung in the lower hose. Also did a oil cooler delete and oil change. Put my cervinis hood on and stripped one of the nut inserts. SMH. I'll tend to that asap. Ideas on what to do would be helpful. I contacted a local fiberglass shop and they would cut the section out and replace it for $220. I got an 04 expedition console I plan to use instead of the stock one. I'm gonna stick a little jl amp in the back of it. I haven't had any shifting issues since I unplugged the airbag module. I checked around for any damage to the wire but couldn't find it. Not sure if the 2 are related. I also reprogrammed the speedometer for the larger tires and it's moving a hell of a lot nicer than before. I got a vb from punisher and I'm holding off on putting it in till I solve the cooling issue. It's been cool since I installed a new cooling system and I don't do very much driving. I noticed it getting warm and the fans didn't kick on. I had to turn them on via the switch. Even then it wasn't cooling off like it did in the other truck. Could the water pump be going bad? What's wrong with the temp sending unit? Is there a way to test it?

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The shavings on the first rear axle sensor suggest there are bigger chunks in the diff, which might bounce up on rough roads & cause the shifting problems. I'd pull the cover & check out the gears & bearings. Use a flexible magnet to fish chunks out from between the pinion bearings, going over the top through the oil journal. Getting all the sediment out of the rear lip is just a nasty job, but it has to be done. Another likely cause for the shifting problems (assuming the speedo is also erratic simultaneously) is the 4WABS module going bad - it happens. But it's easy to bypass for diagnosis (or semipermanently) by installing 2 jumper wires in the unplugged connector.



The seat belt wiring is strictly for the chime - it has nothing to do with SRS.



And the SRS is not related to the transmission, other than at the fuse block & battery.



I'm glad you already replaced the alt & battery cables - I noticed the crappy clamp in the 2nd photo.

I also noticed that, when you pulled the carpet, you left the shoulder reel covers on. They need to come out for thorough cleaning; particularly the driver's. Read these captions:

. .

The best replacement insulation for the bedwall panels would be common cut-pile carpet. Spray adhesive on the panels where the original was, then stick the carpet pile (not the backing) lightly to the panel.

This explains the temperature sender:



But if you've already found coolant system problems, then it's likely that the pump has also been damaged.



You can check it by disconnecting the heater hose that comes from the intake, at the heater core, and starting the cold engine. If the pump shoots a stream of coolant out of that hose (aim it appropriately), then it's OK. If not, there's either a pump problem, or blockage in the coolant journals in the block.
 
I'm putting headers on right now and came across a snag. I don't know what these metal tubes are going to the manifold. What can I do so there won't be a code? Its a mass air truck. My other truck didn't have them.
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EGR and it needs to be turned off in the tune.
I was referring to the really small metal lines running to that box on the front. I was able to block off the egr on my other truck with a beer can gasket and not get codes.

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Those are connected to the DPFE sensor. You will need a tune to delete it with no cel.

Also, the dash bracket repair kits are available from JBG, or take one off of a truck at the junkyard.
 
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