Second build up from the short block

Man, I feel your pain. If I had a dollar for every time I've made life worse by thinking I was being clever or "fixing" something cosmetic...
 
I weighed my truck today, 4060 with me in it. 3880 without me. What makes a L weigh 500 lbs more? I know that part of my bed is fiberglass but that shouldn’t make too much of a difference. No rear bumper. Fiberglass roll pan. The hood was off and the rear tank was 3/4 full. I think the hood weighs about 60 lbs. I can weigh it this weekend. What else could make a difference? C4 compared to the E4OD?


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C4 is probably half the weight of an e4od. But I believe a flareside bed is heavier. My 95 f150 was 3985. Full weight, step bumper. Only thing missing is the front tank and it has aluminum heads and cervinis hood which I’m unsure is any lighter then stock
 
So I’m new to reading filters. Could use a little help. Just before I pulled the motor down the oil got some coolant in it. Like strong coffee with a touch of creamer. Not milky. Anyway this is the filter. Some silver material but more of the brass looking specs. This was the worst pleat. Is this “normal” wear?
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I'm new to it also. If you cut the ends off you can pull/lay the pleats down flat and it's much easier to get a look at. Even better is let the filter meada sit on an oil absorbent pad and it'll pull the oil from it and make it easier to see. I'd go by the amount of debris you find.
 
BlackFlareSide said:
I weighed my truck today, 4060 with me in it. 3880 without me. What makes a L weigh 500 lbs more? I know that part of my bed is fiberglass but that shouldn’t make too much of a difference. No rear bumper. Fiberglass roll pan. The hood was off and the rear tank was 3/4 full. I think the hood weighs about 60 lbs. I can weigh it this weekend. What else could make a difference? C4 compared to the E4OD?


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C4 is about 110# dry and no torq conv, E4OD is about 270# dry with torq conv. This is what i've found searching in the past.
 
bobwhite said:
C4 is about 110# dry and no torq conv, E4OD is about 270# dry with torq conv. This is what i've found searching in the past.
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Well I’ve been debating on getting rid of the C4 for an electronic overdrive transmission. I hadn’t thought about the weight difference.


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Briansshop said:
I'm new to it also. If you cut the ends off you can pull/lay the pleats down flat and it's much easier to get a look at. Even better is let the filter meada sit on an oil absorbent pad and it'll pull the oil from it and make it easier to see. I'd go by the amount of debris you find.
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Thanks Brian, I’ll give that a try.


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A/c compressor is out of the way for now and the upper radiator hose modification from @Briansshop.
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Briansshop said:
Nice rad hose . A lot better than the floppy one Ford went with!
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For sure! I had to order smaller clamps but better yes!
It’s definitely running way better than it was before I pulled it down. Matter of fact I don’t think it’s ever ran this good. If the weather is decent I have solid plans to hit the drag strip Friday night. It won’t really hook on the street now unless I roll into it easy. Definitely stronger than it was. I’m looking forward to seeing the difference.


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Mandrel 90° Bend - T304 Stainless Steel Tube OD: 1.5"
https://www.jegs.com/i/MBRP/679/MB1040/10002/-1
I used some of the original hose for the straight piece and the bend. A quick search on amazon will give you some silicone elbows and straight pieces that are less than $10 each. I ordered some and will try them out next time i drain the coolant down or next time I'm bored. 1.5" ID is what you want to get.
My belt set up is a bit different than yours, I have the mustang style brackets (whats left of them). Once the A/C compressor was out of the way it moved the belt down and then I had room to install the rad hose and pipe. To delete the compressor I used
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mch-30035-09
to mount the power steering pump. I was a little aggravated that I had to cut 1/4" off the threads of the 2 longer SS bolts. The bolts go to the water pump and once I removed all three I was leaking coolant and having to fix the bolts while leaking. I would expect more precision for a $90 bracket. I bought a 60" belt but it was a bit to long so I re-clocked the tension-er. I think the main difference between the mustang and the truck brackets is the tension pulley location and the truck has an extra idler on top. Briansshop did it all to his with the truck style brackets. Look back in his Crown Vic IFS swap thread pg 38. He used a bracket from ebay but had to do some modifications. That's why I tried the March Performance bracket.
 
Thanks man! I’m planning to keep my ac though. Its hot down here in the GA summers!


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Second build up, from the short block up.

ASAP said:
Thanks man! I’m planning to keep my ac though. Its hot down here in the GA summers!


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No problem. I’m in Central Florida so I feel your pain. My truck sits a lot in the summer. All my free time in the summer is...
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I have everything to put it back on if I want to in the future. Right now my intake is in the way of the evaporator so I have to get a new intake or swap mine around. If It was hooked up and working I probably wouldn’t take it off either.
It may be possible to do with the a/c still on it. @Briansshop did you do the rad hose with your a/c still on?


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