PimpxShift install and wiring questions

You're giving good info, but I am trying to follow how you are getting your readings.

Anyway, let's just use the Spartan wires and none of the factory stuff at the 60 pin.

Supply 12v thought a fuse to the Red Spartan wire
Ground both the black and white to the battery
Using the battery as ground measure the output of the green wire, with Green being positive and batt negative on your MM. Hook up the MM and put it in view so you can watch the voltage from the moment you key on.

Doing it like that takes the Megasquirt and your stock wiring completely out of the picture.
 
Raymond_B said:
You're giving good info, but I am trying to follow how you are getting your readings.

Anyway, let's just use the Spartan wires and none of the factory stuff at the 60 pin.

Supply 12v thought a fuse to the Red Spartan wire
Ground both the black and white to the battery
Using the battery as ground measure the output of the green wire, with Green being positive and batt negative on your MM. Hook up the MM and put it in view so you can watch the voltage from the moment you key on.

Doing it like that takes the Megasquirt and your stock wiring completely out of the picture.
Click to expand...

Good thought and worth a try... If I have the red straight to the battery I won’t need to key on though. Actually makes it easier that way just to test.


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core-rider said:
Good thought and worth a try... If I have the red straight to the battery I won’t need to key on though. Actually makes it easier that way just to test.


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Click to expand...

That's fine for just testing, but watch for the startup sequence, it happens fast as you saw in my video.
 
core-rider said:
Okay I'm at my wits end here!!! I verified all factory wiring with multimeter and got some strange results...

Purple/Orange grounds to 2, 40, & 60 (Not a dead short, but reading about 66ohms on 40 & 60) (Looking at the 60-pin harness the Purple/Orange wire is on 19 labeled "SS2" according to the chart on page 3 of the Quick Startup Guide, but doesn't ground with a multimeter there)
Orange grounds to 49
Black grounds to 40 & 60 (Dead short at 0.1ohms)
Grey/Blue grounds to 29

While reading out the wiring I found another issue with my wiring from earlier today and corrected it. Now I'm certain it is all wired correctly.

I don't understand why the power wire is grounding out to the same place as the ground. This was with both battery cables loose, 60-pin harness disconnected, and the O2 sensor disconnected. With battery and 60-pin connected I read voltages at the O2 sensor harness while disconnected and get 11.33VDC at Purple/Orange and Black or to the chassis. When I plug the O2 harness in my AFR gauge in TS is again going straight to max reading and with a multimeter on Green and White I read 5.36VDC.

This truck has run perfectly on a FMS Mass-Air kit for 21 years so I don't believe there's anything wrong with the factory wiring and all of that FMS kit I've removed. I'm back to all factory wiring with the exception of the 3 pin changes to the 60-pin harness and wiring in the Spartan 2. I think I'm just going to move forward with first start and see what happens.


I'm really sorry guys for all the questions, but I WAY over-think stuff and this is all new to me... I've hit a wall! I really appreciate all the help and I just want to get my truck running again!
Click to expand...


The purple/orange wire come from the fuse box (15amp fuse that is hot in run) but when your checking the ohms through it it will check through the fuse so that’s a bad test.

You’ve already verified that the orange wire goes to pin 49 (but you’re not using that wire so it doesn’t matter)

You’ve already verified that the gray/LT blue goes to pin 29

We know the black is going to be both your grounds (and you’ve already tested that it is good)
 
Jamie V said:
The purple/orange wire come from the fuse box (15amp fuse that is hot in run) but when your checking the ohms through it it will check through the fuse so that’s a bad test.

You’ve already verified that the orange wire goes to pin 49 (but you’re not using that wire so it doesn’t matter)

You’ve already verified that the gray/LT blue goes to pin 29

We know the black is going to be both your grounds (and you’ve already tested that it is good)
Click to expand...

I am using the Orange wire... it goes to Black on the Spartan 2. That might be the issue. Orange goes to 49 HEGO GND... the instructions say tie it to the Black (GND 40/60) in the factory O2 plug, or tee direct to ECU pin 46 SIG RTN or 20 EEC GND.

That would explain the "floating ground" issue.

Dammit guess I'm cutting back into the harness a 4th time! :blink:
 
But first test the Spartan by itself.

You said you ran the FMS kit, but has your stock 60 pin connector been messed with?
 
No the FMS kit uses a jumper harness for everything... no changes to the factory harness.


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core-rider said:
I am using the Orange wire... it goes to Black on the Spartan 2. That might be the issue. Orange goes to 49 HEGO GND... the instructions say tie it to the Black (GND 40/60) in the factory O2 plug, or tee direct to ECU pin 46 SIG RTN or 20 EEC GND.

That would explain the "floating ground" issue.

Dammit guess I'm cutting back into the harness a 4th time! :blink:
Click to expand...

This is why I keep asking if you have it wired like this....
Black Signal Ground/tie to same wire as white below

f842074a931605549f2180e819482a54.png
 
Yeah and I’ve read that a few dozen times and still somehow did not register in my head that Orange is on 49, not 46 or 20. I’ll get those tied together and test it again. Hopefully that will be the last of this ordeal!


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Jamie V said:
This is why I keep asking if you have it wired like this....
Black Signal Ground/tie to same wire as white below

f842074a931605549f2180e819482a54.png
Click to expand...

So for my clarification...

Orange on the factory O2 connector should be left loose?


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Yes.....

Red from Spartan to Purple/Orange on truck

Green from Spartan to Gray/LT Blue on truck

Black
&
White from Spartan to Black on truck
 
SUCCESS!!! Upon key turn I get 13.4, then 16.6, then about 15.7 for a second before going to 19.9. Went ahead with first crank to check RPM and getting about 125RPM. Think my battery is a bit low from having the key on so much and not running for 3 weeks.

Need to check and set the base timing and continue moving forward.

Again... HUGE thank you very much Jamie and Raymond for all the help and patience! I’m ready to hear this truck come back to life and begins the real task of tuning!


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Don't feel bad, I rewired mine like 3 times too before I got it.

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Got her running this afternoon and did about 30-45 minutes of tuning to get everything settled for first drive. Shifting is harsh, but I already have a Level 10 shift kit installed so I'm guessing I will need to play with line pressures some but that can wait. Overall I'm very pleased with how first start went. I'm running 60lb injectors and Stinger wasn't sure if I should set them as 60 or 120lb running batch fire. Turns out 120 is needed... 60 was WAY too rich! :scared1: I had to tweak VE table at idle to get the AFR in line, but other than that I haven't touched anything.

I am having trouble getting the MPH gauges to equal... no matter what tire diameter I use I can't get the the same. 50 on mechanical gauge I read 45-47 on TS. Also I'm seeing about half the vacuum reading on TS that I am with the mechanical gauge. I read 100kPa about 600' elevation) with the engine off like I should so not sure the issue there.

Anyway the important part... video about to go on first drive.

https://imgur.com/a/YRfIiNS
 
core-rider said:
Got her running this afternoon and did about 30-45 minutes of tuning to get everything settled for first drive. Shifting is harsh, but I already have a Level 10 shift kit installed so I'm guessing I will need to play with line pressures some but that can wait. Overall I'm very pleased with how first start went. I'm running 60lb injectors and Stinger wasn't sure if I should set them as 60 or 120lb running batch fire. Turns out 120 is needed... 60 was WAY too rich! :scared1: I had to tweak VE table at idle to get the AFR in line, but other than that I haven't touched anything.

I am having trouble getting the MPH gauges to equal... no matter what tire diameter I use I can't get the the same. 50 on mechanical gauge I read 45-47 on TS. Also I'm seeing about half the vacuum reading on TS that I am with the mechanical gauge. I read 100kPa about 600' elevation) with the engine off like I should so not sure the issue there.

Anyway the important part... video about to go on first drive.

https://imgur.com/a/YRfIiNS
Click to expand...

CONGRATS!

I can't tell from the video, does the PiMP dash have a vacuum/boost gauge in PSI or a MAP gauge in kPa? Use a GPS app on your phone to verify which reading is correct.
 
Raymond_B said:
CONGRATS!

I can't tell from the video, does the PiMP dash have a vacuum/boost gauge in PSI or a MAP gauge in kPa? Use a GPS app on your phone to verify which reading is correct.
Click to expand...

It has a “Boost” gauge that shows vacuum in inHg and MAP in kPa, but if I Google convert the kPa gauge reading it lines up with what the TS “Boost” gauge is showing which is about half the mechanical gauge. Both TS and the mechanical gauge are pulling reference from the vacuum tree on the intake.

I’ve checked against GPS before, but it’s been a long time. I’ll check it again and see which is more accurate.


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No... that was removed with the FMS Mass-Air conversion long ago. Only vacuum lines hooked up now are mechanical vacuum/boost gauge, MAP for PiMPxShift, brake booster, FPR, PCV, and HVAC.


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OK, I am not 100% familiar with the PiMP setup, I know you run a vacuum line to it, but I do not know if it expects a BAP sensor too. What do the directions say to do with the factory BAP sensor?
 
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