PimpxShift install and wiring questions

core-rider

core-rider

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So I began the teardown today for my PimpxShift install and I'm having difficulty understanding exactly what wires go where for the Spartan 2 wideband and gauge. I've read over the instructions till I'm blue in the face and maybe I'm over-thinking it.

This is their instructions...
Wiring:
Red Wire: Switched 12v, Use provided fuse holder, 12v should be live only when engine is running.
Black Wire: Electronics Ground, connect to the same place as the ECU case (pin 20) to minimize ground offsets.
White Wire: Heater Ground, connect to engine or battery.
----You "can" put both Black & White ground wires to engine/battery but it's technically not as "right". Don't use a random chassis ground for either though.
Green Wire: Linear Analog Output, Connect to Pin 29 (stock o2 sensor signal wire).
Brown Wire: Simulated Narrowband Output, Unused
Blue Wire: Sensor Temperature Output LED, Optional, Long lead on LED to Blue wire, Short lead on LED to ground. Slow blink = sensor too cool,
Solid light = sensor temperature OK, Fast Blink = sensor too hot.

I know I should be on their forum to get answers, but I'm also wanting to know where Lightning-specific owners installed their 12V power, ground, and heater ground too?

Also I know the MAP and EGR go away with Pimp, but what about all those solenoids behind the throttle body? Sure would be nice to clean up back there if possible and get rid of some vacuum hoses!
 
So black should go to sensor ground, this is where things like your TPS are grounded. And then white can go to chassis/battery ground.

It’s a bit more complicated because you’re running a plug and play so look at your wiring diagram for the truck. Personally I’d prob tap in to the TPS sensor ground or right at the EEC-IV 60 pin
 
I’ll check my notes but I basically cut the stock harness then runs down to the starter area and put the plug on the end of the Spartan wires. I just don’t remember what wire went to where. I’m not running a gauge though just the sensor to the ecu
 
droppedf100 said:
I’ll check my notes but I basically cut the stock harness then runs down to the starter area and put the plug on the end of the Spartan wires. I just don’t remember what wire went to where. I’m not running a gauge though just the sensor to the ecu
Click to expand...

I think I’ve decided that’s the route I’m going to take. I want to do as little damage to the factory harness as possible, but also don’t want down low where the elements will possibly get to them.


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core-rider said:
I think I’ve decided that’s the route I’m going to take. I want to do as little damage to the factory harness as possible, but also don’t want down low where the elements will possibly get to them.


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Click to expand...

I have mine setup the same as Joe did. I'll look at what wires I used today and let you know...
 
6d31e7525920716724c248624a51fac3.jpg


It’s in the startup guide.
 
So are they saying to remove the factory o2 sensor and replace it with the wide band o2 sensors or run 2 wide band o2 sensor and factory o2 sensor. Reason for asking is I'm about the pull the trigger soon and the pimpxshift for my truck.
 
I cut the pigtail off of the factory narrowband sensor itself so that way I could plug directly into the factory harness without modifying it. I used that pigtail to wire into the Spartan 2 like the directions show.
 
Jamie V said:
I cut the pigtail off of the factory narrowband sensor itself so that way I could plug directly into the factory harness without modifying it. I used that pigtail to wire into the Spartan 2 like the directions show.
Click to expand...

So Jamie... did you wire in a gauge? At this point that’s the only thing I think that will make me have to damage the factory harness unless I run wires to the same spot the O2 wires in at.

I’ve read the page you attached multiple times and just trying to come to the best solution.

I’m to the point of repinning and wiring in the O2 now so I want to make the best decision and do it once.


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alarcont91 said:
Ok and that would allow a reading from both banks and allow a signal for the auto tune feature
Click to expand...

It only reads from one bank, but for what most of us want to do it's more than fine. You don't need both banks for auto tune either.
 
Narrow band is worthless for anything more than plugging an open sensor bung in the exhaust once you have the wideband installed.

I'd recommend what the other guys have done. Sensor ground, switched 12 volt and signal are all available right there in the stock harness. Cut the pigtail off the narrow band and use it for the wideband.

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Here's how I have mine wired from the factory pass side O2 harness in the starter loom..

Factory. O2
orange. Black
Gray/blue tracer. Green
Purple/orange trac. Red
Black. White
074315ec2bba965621cb38b54e8771c5.jpg
c87bbacedb47dfd9078940db195b026e.jpg


Sent from my SM-A515U using Tapatalk
 
core-rider said:
So Jamie... did you wire in a gauge? At this point that’s the only thing I think that will make me have to damage the factory harness unless I run wires to the same spot the O2 wires in at.

I’ve read the page you attached multiple times and just trying to come to the best solution.

I’m to the point of repinning and wiring in the O2 now so I want to make the best decision and do it once.
Click to expand...

No gauge, the computer has a full dashboard on the screen if I needed to see any gauges.

You can use an android phone as a gauge if you want with an app and a dongle once you get going.
 
lightn95 said:
Here's how I have mine wired from the factory pass side O2 harness in the starter loom..

Factory. O2
orange. Black
Gray/blue tracer. Green
Purple/orange trac. Red
Black. White
074315ec2bba965621cb38b54e8771c5.jpg
c87bbacedb47dfd9078940db195b026e.jpg


Sent from my SM-A515U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I’m to the point of power up and initial setup of the system, but my WB is reading a maximum signal. Been waiting for over 2 hours for a reply on the Stinger forums so this has kinda got me shutdown. I also noticed the IAC is making a buzzing sound so I’ve unplugged it for now. I don’t believe they are related as I unplugged the WB and the IAC still buzzes.

I used your wiring colors, and with a MM I’m getting what I believe should be good readings. I’m questioning if the heater ground and chassis ground should be terminated together, but don’t want to cut apart all my wiring to make the change without Stinger responding first.

Could just be a bad sensor???


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There is a setting in the software that keeps the IAC from being energized with the engine not running so it doesn’t buzz the entire time.
 
Jamie V said:
There is a setting in the software that keeps the IAC from being energized with the engine not running so it doesn’t buzz the entire time.
Click to expand...

Okay I need to find that... now if I could just figure out this dang O2!


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