PiMP and 60lbs Upgrade

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One more update for today. I added fuel and it is helping for sure. I was co-pilot while my wife drove. My AFR is now reasonable so I can tune down instead of up. Looks like I might get to get into some boost on 93 octane pump this weekend. Saving my VP 109 for a special occasion. It feels way better, sounds better, is now tunable without glaring issues. I haven't declared mission accomplished, but I'm happy it is moving in the right direction.

 

[slow94]

One more update for today. I added fuel and it is helping for sure. I was co-pilot while my wife drove. My AFR is now reasonable so I can tune down instead of up. Looks like I might get to get into some boost on 93 octane pump this weekend. Saving my VP 109 for a special occasion. It feels way better, sounds better, is now tunable without glaring issues. I haven't declared mission accomplished, but I'm happy it is moving in the right direction.

View attachment 104045

Going right direction. I set up the areas right before going into boost richer than a normal NA set up so it starts adding fuel right away before that transition. Lot of motors have been hurt in these areas. Usually WOT is simple to nail down.

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What fuel and plugs are you running? I looked through your datalog and looked at the highest boost pull you made which was around 6psi. You've got about 160's deg IAC and are running, in my opinion, a lot of timing (30 degrees at tip in and then 25 around 6psi) in lower RPMs for a non-intercooled pump gas setup.

Also, and I ran in to this too when tuning on the street, you're not getting any accel enrichment because you're rolling in to the throttle slowly so you def hit a very lean spot then as you build boost it's a tad lean and eventually goes a bit rich. Does it ping when you first get in to it and then go away or all the way through? I'd pull some timing and add some accel pump in the lower TPSdot areas. I'd also pull the plugs and then go colder if you haven't already.

View attachment 104040

After getting some seat time and digging in to MLV then re-reading what you said I’m putting it together now. The base timing table Stinger sent starts pulling timing at 3psi - to 27 degrees. Basically it had me running 31 degrees total. I always ran my BTM no less than 2 on the knob. So long story short I rescaled the table and dropped timing lower, will see if I can get into some boost without burning my motor down. I need it tuned for pump gas and be forgiving.

So the base tune scaling is set to like 36psi so it gives a false sense of security when you see those low numbers up top. Scale lends perspective. Watching Tune Analyze while someone else drives is the way to go. MLV is really cool. I’m going to do same as I saw JamieV from a post and add Fuel pressure.

 

[Raymond_B]

After getting some seat time and digging in to MLV then re-reading what you said I’m putting it together now. The base timing table Stinger sent starts pulling timing at 3psi - to 27 degrees. Basically it had me running 31 degrees total. I always ran my BTM no less than 2 on the knob. So long story short I rescaled the table and dropped timing lower, will see if I can get into some boost without burning my motor down. I need it tuned for pump gas and be forgiving.

So the base tune scaling is set to like 36psi so it gives a false sense of security when you see those low numbers up top. Scale lends perspective. Watching Tune Analyze while someone else drives is the way to go. MLV is really cool. I’m going to do same as I saw JamieV from a post and add Fuel pressure.

I'd strongly recommend you pull a bunch of timing and then slowly add it back in. Much safer and beats popping a head gasket!

 

[FMOS Racing]

29 deg at 100 kpa, 14 deg at 150 kpa would be close to 2 deg per lb. That should be a reasonable place to be if you're at 12:1 afr at 90 kpa and 11:1 at 120 kpa and higher , both with straight line interpolation in the columns.

The fueling will be safe. Timing will need an ear, especially as weather gets warmer.

 

[Required]

29 deg at 100 kpa, 14 deg at 150 kpa would be close to 2 deg per lb. That should be a reasonable place to be if you're at 12:1 afr at 90 kpa and 11:1 at 120 kpa and higher , both with straight line interpolation in the columns.

The fueling will be safe. Timing will need an ear, especially as weather gets warmer.

I’m pretty sure it’s dialed in timing wise by feel and sound. However something bothers me. I’m running 21* at 100kpa. I think something is off by about factor of 8* or so. So I have that to track down.

It does run great though, shifts awesome, revs quick and sounds way more clean and no more BTM muffled exhaust note, launch control is bananas. I’ve got accurate log data to keep it safe.

This week I’m going to sit and do some of the video training. It’s likely I’ll find something to explain my timing deviation. Could be as simple as the angle I’m looking at the marks. I think it’s called parallax deviation or similar.

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Short vid of launch control and a let off.

 

[FMOS Racing]

Yeah that's a bit low. I run way more timing than that at 100kpa in my stock truck using 87 octane.

 

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Small detour. While checking my plugs #5 was looking clean. I discovered coolant entering the intake runner from the intake gasket. Fast forward a few days and a couple trips to Summit Racing and I’m now running AFR 185s.

I got bit by the “while I’m in there” pretty bad, but knowing ultimately this unknown roller cam and bottom end days are numbered I chose restraint.

This weekend I’ll get out and see where it sits cruising and start over with fresh timing and VE tables with these heads.

 

[FMOS Racing]

That's a pretty solid case of "while you're in there" for a leaking intake gasket!!

Sometimes the itch just has to get scratched!

 

[slow94]

I remember when I "thought" I had restraint. Now my stock bottom end probably makes 800+ wheel lol. With a good tune up the stock motor may surprise you.

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A few things were bothering me about the top end in general. The excessive use of Ultra Black was on my radar. I was checking my oil and radiator coolant levels frequently. I’m not sure if boost helped that gasket out any.

So now I’m back to a base tune but starting out with the trans and other tune snips I stole from here. So far it’s behaving at idle, in gear and sounds good. I’m excited to see the difference now that I have data logs before the heads. I’m back in “safe mode” on the Vortech.

I’m still on schedule to make it out the Yellow Belly drag strip in May. If it can hold together for a few passes I’ll be happy.

 

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Finished cleaning up the shop after my impromptu head swap idea. Got some seat time and logs to go over. It runs better than ever even with “safe mode” timing. I drove around our back roads laying down black stripes, tuning then reviewing logs, rinse repeat. The heads really woke it up, things are smoother and predictable. My Butt Dyno was impressed- so I bought a Dragy. Will check it out this weekend.

I’m still running Goodyear Eagles probably from 2015. Looking at Mickey Thompson ET Street R P315/55-17s. Any other suggestions? I’m not putting out crazy power but I’m traction deficient and realistically tires are the easiest win. I never had wheel hop struggles and don’t run bars on this truck. Hopefully I don’t introduce hop with better tires. Included picture, look at those fancy heads!

 

[Raymond_B]

Finished cleaning up the shop after my impromptu head swap idea. Got some seat time and logs to go over. It runs better than ever even with “safe mode” timing. I drove around our back roads laying down black stripes, tuning then reviewing logs, rinse repeat. The heads really woke it up, things are smoother and predictable. My Butt Dyno was impressed- so I bought a Dragy. Will check it out this weekend.

I’m still running Goodyear Eagles probably from 2015. Looking at Mickey Thompson ET Street R P315/55-17s. Any other suggestions? I’m not putting out crazy power but I’m traction deficient and realistically tires are the easiest win. I never had wheel hop struggles and don’t run bars on this truck. Hopefully I don’t introduce hop with better tires. Included picture, look at those fancy heads! View attachment 104067

I’d def look at long bars or Catracks. Doesn’t take much hop to kill the spider gears.

 

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I’d def look at long bars or Catracks. Doesn’t take much hop to kill the spider gears.

I don’t know why this truck doesn't have wheel hop. It’s not hooking up until 30ish mph with lots of pedaling. I’m hoping the MT P315/55-17 grab a little better. It’s a chunk of change for a consumable item. Guess I’ll be shopping for some bars too.

 

[Raymond_B]

I don’t know why this truck doesn't have wheel hop. It’s not hooking up until 30ish mph with lots of pedaling. I’m hoping the MT P315/55-17 grab a little better. It’s a chunk of change for a consumable item. Guess I’ll be shopping for some bars too.

When I got mine back together it did not have wheel hop either cause it just blows the ancient M/T Streets away. **However** I stood on it from a pretty fast roll and when it shifted it hopped just a bit, poof no spider gears...

 

[Raymond_B]

Been meaning to say, sounds like you've got a handle on the tuning and are making a LOT of progress. Congrats!

 

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Been meaning to say, sounds like you've got a handle on the tuning and are making a LOT of progress. Congrats!

Thanks, I’ve been lucky so far is all. I only need it to hold together until May so I can get some time slips.

 

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Working on my pump gas daily driver tune some more. I had time to get out and drive this week. Worked my way up to 7.9lbs 4600rpm keeping 11:30 AFR but still 80% TPS. I dipped into WOT a few times for logging, it’s 10.40 AFR and probably maybe fine for the street? I’ve used the Dragy a couple times now. It measures all the basics and it’s nice having the video to watch/listen while looking at MLV back at my desk. I have a good spot for testing right down the road, so it’s not a big deal to take 20 mins here and there. My 1000ft was in the 90mph range so there’s hope when I get to the track. Im not going to realistically launch and hold traction until I sort out long bars/caltrac tires and shocks. The Dragy will also help mark improvements going forward.

 

[Raymond_B]

10.4 is way too rich, 11.5ish is what I'd shoot for.

 

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10.4 is way too rich, 11.5ish is what I'd shoot for.

Ok, I did make it too fat up high but you kept saying “You’ll blow a head gasket kid!” So this is better, just need to smooth out surrounding cells. Hope my timing table is okay, I’ve got pulling plugs for reading down to 30 minutes after all this.