No Spark with Spout in

guys i hope these offers to help still stand. Its been a miserable few months working constantly 7/12's (cant tell looking at my bank account!). I'm finally back to a semi normal schedule of 40 hr work weeks. I'm charging the laptop with the tuner information and i will load my data here, hopefully someone can figure out what the builder could not when trying to finally start this truck. I have tons of questions about the data he put in the tuner as i think some information is wrong but I'm scared to adjust anything until im sure.

Next plans are buying new battery cables as the ones on the truck are really rough, priming the engine again, draining the old gas, possibly a new alternator and finding TDC for cylinder 1 with a piston stop tool.
 
im 90% sure this is the tune currently loaded but just found out my battery is dead so tomorrow ill try to save if its not "current". cant seem to find a data log?? mustve lost it when the laptop took a crap on me

basic info on motor is:
408 stroker
42lbs injectors
batch fire
sd
id have to look at the look at O2 sensor type..been a while since i bought the kit
igniition is stock currently but i have aMSD that is bypassed due to these issues
cam card ill have to find. i did look at the grind to make sure it was the correct firing order for 351 where the p/n started with a 35?? again this was 6 months ago but ill confirm
 

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Do you have the setup instructions for the PxS?

JP19 looks correct. Here's the rest of them. Yellow needs to be set, red needs to be verified as not set.

jumpers.jpg
 
Sorry I'm a 1st timer but everything I can see seems OK but am I supposed to remove the boards to verify as well?
 

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JamesJ said:
Sorry I'm a 1st timer but everything I can see seems OK but am I supposed to remove the boards to verify as well?
Click to expand...
No need to remove the boards, all the jumpers you need to push on are accessible. As FMOS said above, check them all and only use the ones required.


JP1, JP2, JP14, JP19 (pins 2-3 12v)
 
JamesJ said:
im 90% sure this is the tune currently loaded but just found out my battery is dead so tomorrow ill try to save if its not "current". cant seem to find a data log?? mustve lost it when the laptop took a crap on me

basic info on motor is:
408 stroker
42lbs injectors
batch fire
sd
id have to look at the look at O2 sensor type..been a while since i bought the kit
igniition is stock currently but i have aMSD that is bypassed due to these issues
cam card ill have to find. i did look at the grind to make sure it was the correct firing order for 351 where the p/n started with a 35?? again this was 6 months ago but ill confirm
Click to expand...
That is not going to work, you are going to need to start back with the Stinger base tune. Firing order, injectors etc. It is set for 5 cylinders?


1714092068038.png
 
Required said:
That is not going to work, you are going to need to start back with the Stinger base tune. Firing order, injectors etc. It is set for 5 cylinders?


View attachment 104951
Click to expand...
Jeez...I have no idea what he set it at! I'm currently fighting battery cables and tons of folders on the laptop that were added/ duplicated in the restore. After I clean it up and read the pimp instructions again I'm going to load the base and try to start fresh tomorrow. Hoping I can load,test then post my newest start tune.
 
JamesJ said:
Jeez...I have no idea what he set it at! I'm currently fighting battery cables and tons of folders on the laptop that were added/ duplicated in the restore. After I clean it up and read the pimp instructions again I'm going to load the base and try to start fresh tomorrow. Hoping I can load,test then post my newest start tune.
Click to expand...
That’s good news if that is the tune, it would explain your issues. So back to basics and I bet you have it going in no time.
 
I'll preference this with saying I know this is all my own fault...but I'm not enjoying the pimp experience at all to this point. I tried to find the base tune, I locate it in the system and see which folder, then open tuner studio and go to import and it and its no where to be found, interface isn't user friendly ( working on a cheap laptop is why yes i know). Close the entire app then open a new one and its still saying there is another tuner studio program running in the background...its behaving a little strange. I'm fed up so I'm deleting everything tonight and just reinstalling starting from scratch since i cannot load the tune file that was loaded on the thumbdrive, i just hope it doesnt act screwy and not accept my register code or something crazy on the reinstall. Again i know this is all due to not just trusting in myself and hoping the shop could do it for me, now I'm trying to learn something that has been setup completely wrong and I'm left to learn in a baptism by fire scenario.

While working i fumbled under the hood a bit and accidentally touched my alternator and it was pretty damn hot, positive terminal and battery cables were warm too. Waiting on my new ones to come in so i can swap everything out but that wont be until Thursday.

I do have a question about the AFR table in the tuner. I cannot find the stuff Pimp sent me and it says to not just pick the AEM 30-03xx but instead to "custom linear WB" and i do not have the instructions to find the voltage vs AFR table to type in. anyone know where i can find this?
 
Here's a project file that should correct everything. It's based on my white truck adjusted for your injectors and displacement. It's a small cam, stock intake, batch fire tune, and my transmission settings. It will need to be adjusted, but it also should have your truck running well enough to drive.

The TunerStudio interface is very much the same as every other tuning program. They're tough to get your stance solid in if you're a) not that comfortable with computers, and b) not that comfortable with tuning, and I think you're facing both. Sometimes we geeky types lose how difficult the backend stuff on computers can be for people who aren't completely comfortable with them.

To use this file, you'll download it to your computer in a directory where you can find it, then use the File > Vehicle Projects > Import Project Backup function.

For JamesJ_2024-04-27_07.56.25.tsproj

According to AEM, the range for the sensor is 0.50 v = 8.50 AFR, and 4.50 = 18.00 AFR

This will SHOULD work as a way to get you started, though I suppose there could be a communications or serial number issue.

I think you'll still need someone who is comfortable with both computers and tuning to get it sorted out just right for you.
 
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FMOS Racing said:
Here's a project file that should correct everything. It's based on my white truck adjusted for your injectors and displacement. It's a small cam, stock intake, batch fire tune, and my transmission settings. It will need to be adjusted, but it also should have your truck running well enough to drive.
Click to expand...
thank you sir!

so i messed around with the truck and tuner a bit yesterday. Found out through all the restores that i was logged out and in Lite edition, once i signed in there was a lot more access. messed around with a few settings but having problems trying to start - i get 3 maybe 4 cranks before the battery gets drained so there is obviously an issue there. It sounded the exact same as before very slow dragging crank, double sputter slow crank double sputter. tried 3 times and the battery went so low i couldnt try again.

weather supposed to be garbage all week, ill be taking the tuner to my work and reading over everything to keep learning and waiting on the new batt cables to install
 
JamesJ said:
thank you sir!

so i messed around with the truck and tuner a bit yesterday. Found out through all the restores that i was logged out and in Lite edition, once i signed in there was a lot more access. messed around with a few settings but having problems trying to start - i get 3 maybe 4 cranks before the battery gets drained so there is obviously an issue there. It sounded the exact same as before very slow dragging crank, double sputter slow crank double sputter. tried 3 times and the battery went so low i couldnt try again.

weather supposed to be garbage all week, ill be taking the tuner to my work and reading over everything to keep learning and waiting on the new batt cables to install
Click to expand...
I can't tell from your post, did you load and verify the tune Jeff provided?
 
Raymond_B said:
I can't tell from your post, did you load and verify the tune Jeff provided?
Click to expand...
i did load it tried to adjust the AFR, and just looked through some of the settings. it triggered a "these do not match" popup and read a little about what that means in the proboards...problem is the crank speed just seems so dang slow. Jumped into some OBS forums and looked at a few possible causes and decided to start with the batt cables as they need changing bad and it was on my list. looks like they will be here Wednesday so i want to get them swapped out before moving forward.
 
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