Things are starting to come together

Hmmmm not sure these Dynomax Super Turbos made it quieter, just loud in a different way. **But they do not have the turn downs on them, these mufflers are a good bit longer and wider than the Magnaflows, I mounted them with the inlet centered and the outlets offset. Since they are bi-directional I'll think I will flip them especially on the pass side as the muffler is close to the frame and the turn down wants to hit the sway bar.

Magnaflows

https://youtu.be/csy8a_H7NKY

Dynomax Super Turbo

https://youtu.be/hMgDOagFVeM
 
I don’t hear any difference Ray. What about Super 40’s?


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I think you need a chambered muffler instead of just fiberglass packing. Thats what im gonna try next

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These are 27" total length. I thought for sure these big suckers would quiet it down. I am going to leave them on for now as I think turn downs might make a bit of a difference, and at some point tail pipes will prob help. But I need to decide how I want to run them.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/WLK-17769

Anyway this weekend the timing cover comes back off for the oil leak then hopefully it's time to tune it and get some miles on it.
 
It sounds quieter to me (not as much as I would have thought)but I can tell it’s got dumps. How about when you rev it? Should be drastically quieter.


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I went over the axle when I redid the exhaust but with it lowered, I may have to go back to a dump. Not like it's going to be loud, I just prefer the exhaust to exit from under the truck so I don't accidentally kill myself with it idling one day.
 
Pulled the timing cover today. When I was putting it all together I did not realize that the Moroso pan is missing two front bolt holes. I guess the problem was that I did not use enough silicone in that area.

I also tore the pan gasket when I was trying to separate the bottom 1/2 moon portion from the timing cover. So I am thinking my options are to cut the exposed gasket and just use silicone plus the new rubber 1/2 circle piece that came in the timing cover set. Or what I am leaning towards is to keep the original gasket, use silicone and the 1/2 circle piece from the gasket set. It seems that the TC and pan would be off without the steel spacers that are in the rest of the one piece pan gasket.

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The corner of those type pans are squared off to clear engines with 4 bolt caps on the front & rear mains. With the pan squared off you can’t fit a bolt there. It’s very common.
 
After thinking about this more I believe this is what I am going to do.

Cut the old gasket at the block. But a new one piece gasket and cut it to match the timing cover and make sure it butts up against the old gasket at the block. Use RTV liberally and pray :) If that fails then engine gets lifted and an entire new gasket goes in. If that fails then the engine comes out.
 
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