Repop Tube Bumper

Spartanator

Spartanator

Member
Protype 1 repop below (Apologies for the not detailed pics)


Working on getting revisions made for this one, then a couple more tweaks for Rev_2. After a discussion with @Raymond_B I plan to offer these made to order under his guidelines. Doing what I can for a complete kit to be under $750-$800 tops which is steep but they have to keep the lights on and pay for decent welds. I also have a daily driver with a 6.2 so someone has to cover gas, tolls, Protoypes and so on.

Revisions lined up for Protoype_2:
Raised caps (welded) or leave them open and find some plastics that fit
Bumper ball hole delete (Can be optional, doing this to reduce costs unless)
Streamline it closer to the OG
Weld grinding
Plate frame to do down further for bottom plate holes
Frame side mounts notch for better fitment (Maybe)

They are a small shop and get to things when they can. At this time I am undecided about shipping, would be located in Houston.


*****Feedback is welcome*******
*Pics updated for protype #1
 

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I have one of the lmr center pieces. Made Really nice, metal center. Like Jamie said it will save a lot of time and looks perfect.
 
Thanks guys. I have looked hard at that but a few of the things are concerning using the stock or repop plate bracket (which they now have in hand for Proto. #2).
Where the plate frame connects to the top tubes is my concern. I would have to have some caps cut, welded in and tapped (Pipe schedule is different the OE as well). Which would get me back to closer to stock for sure but with the added cost of that+$165 LMR piece that turns to $900 real quick, which you still have to prep, paint/powder. Part of the reason for welded end caps on the outers. If Scott Rose could whip me up some inner end caps that are tapped I'd prefer to buy the kit from him since he had it going before LMR.

On Proto. #2 the plate bracket will be welded to the bottom of the bottom tube. Thinking floor plate for the step area again but angle the outer edges like OE.
 
Let the buyer buy their own plastic center piece to keep your cost down. Eliminating that center piece that your welding in could possibly make your price lower.
 
Would most definitely make sense to leave that out and let the buyer complete it. Weld in the caps like the factory bumper instead , keep the cost the same.
 
It is my opinion (I know its not worth much lol) that buyers for this will pay for a faithful reproduction. I believe more would sell at 1k plus if more exact especially if all factory parts interchange. The hardest part of that is the step area and step plate.They are selling at high price because of the rarity more than anything else. Therefore buyers are going to want it not to look like some aftermarket bumper. I know you are working toward this with the revisions and it is definitely hard to get the machine shops to be as dedicated to a project as you are.
 
I assume they are working with an original on hand to copy??? What's is the plan for mounting brackets and round brace?
 
J Selman said:
It is my opinion (I know its not worth much lol) that buyers for this will pay for a faithful reproduction. I believe more would sell at 1k plus if more exact especially if all factory parts interchange. The hardest part of that is the step area and step plate.They are selling at high price because of the rarity more than anything else. Therefore buyers are going to want it not to look like some aftermarket bumper. I know you are working toward this with the revisions and it is definitely hard to get the machine shops to be as dedicated to a project as you are.
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Believe me, I would rather hear feedback now before I get #2 started even if I don't like it. In my eyes there are a few good reasons to why stick to a 1 piece unit. Let's say the ID and OD of the pipe are the same (I haven't taken calipers to them). What happens if LMR/Scott Rose stops making plate frames? Then there is the end caps, I could probably source some ok looking ones off McMaster Carr (may do this if it can cut costs more than $10 per kit). Going the LMR route adds $160+ without end caps, so another $20+ for end caps. I talked to Scott so I could pillage his mind on making inner end caps and plate frames but then we are in the boat of sourcing inner end caps screws. Might be able to have those done for $140, not excited to weld aluminum to steel either.


J Selman said:
I assume they are working with an original on hand to copy??? What's is the plan for mounting brackets and round brace?
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Correct. Few days late on getting them the plate bracket so they can have a better understanding what I am gunning for.
This mounts directly to the frame. Needs some trimming up and maybe even losing some weight on the brackets. I want it to be somewhat durable or usable if someone decides to tow with it or pop a parking pole...

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I can only speak for myself but I would only consider buying one of it were almost identical to the factory one (if I needed one). I sold the original one I had from a 5,000 mile truck for $1,500 so people will buy the right pieces for the right price.
 
Thanks J.

Long story short same thoughts, #2 will be closer, no doubt about that. There is also an infringement part of this, I'd rather not have to hire an attorney for $500/hr to get smittybuilt/Ford off my back. Prototype #3 may be interchangeable with OE parts but I'd rather not nab folks for a $1k said n done. I will if I have to and it may get to that but I'd like to try alternate routes first.

Yours selling for that much is the reason I have decided to see if this is worth my time.

Edit** I was actually turned down by 3 shops because they were iffy on infringement and liability.
 
You should grab a couple cans of spray paint and color match it, I think that would give people a better idea of what the final product would look like. A little color would go a long way!
 
Raymond_B said:
You should grab a couple cans of spray paint and color match it, I think that would give people a better idea of what the final product would look like. A little color would go a long way!
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You read my mind! I will be doing that this weekend for the 1st prototype. I noticed when I was taking pictures I couldn’t get them how I wanted. What’re your thoughts on painting the ends black?
 
Spartanator said:
There is also an infringement part of this...
Edit** I was actually turned down by 3 shops because they were iffy on infringement and liability.
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Unless you're planning to stamp "FORD" on your copy, there is no infringement. Even if Ford had patented that design (and they probably didn't, but you could search it pretty easily), it would have expired by now, and you're making design changes anyway so it still wouldn't apply. They couldn't have a utility patent on it because bumpers ("fenders" in USPTO lingo) were invented too long ago.

Liability is the bigger concern since vehicle bumpers are regulated by DOT/NHTSA. But there are thousands of bumpers on the market that aren't certified. All you have to do to CYA is add a sticker & mention in your "marketing" that it's not for highway use. Then it's on the buyer.
 
Good info, thank you. I suspect the other shops didn't think there would be enough to make it worth their time (not trying to have 100 of these made) or more worried about liability. On the liability part they will be advertised as "For display only". I may also have some quick tags made that are zip tied to them stating that so there is no mistake it's end user choice.

I did did a quick ghetto paint job done at 3am last night to show this one a bit better, will also help me show the shop improvement points.

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Color makes all the difference in the world, looks great! Although the diamond plate is not my style, I'd rather have it smooth. But that's just me.
 
Thanks, it definitely helps. I go back and forth on the floorplate, I suppose I could have them built either way when it's time. I do have some grip tape laying around so may go smooth on #2.

Out of what you see now, what would you change? I know closer to OE is better but I'm all ears.
 
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