Painting the frame

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09BlackXLT

New member
Hi everybody, I'm new here, but I have been around cars, Fords in particular for quite some time. Really like the site, I have been picking up a lot of ideas for a friend's project truck.

My question is, what process are you guys taking to restore the frames on these trucks? I have seen some really nicely done frames on here. We have access to a sandblaster, and we will have a lot of the truck apart, but I'm not entirely sure that the sandblaster is the best way.

Any suggestions on process, and the products that accompany them would be great. Pictures of the different finishes would be great also. Thank you.
 
I think it depends on the condition of your frame. Is it bad enough to need to be sandblasted? Are you doing a frame off resto?

Some guys use POR15 on the frame, I always wanted to powdercoat one but never did.

I think it's condition, preference, and purpose.
 
It's not a frame off but the back half of the frame has a significant amount of rust. Pretty much everything is coming off the frame except the cab, as the core support needs replaced too. Classic rust belt truck.
 
Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator is another great product for this type of project. I used it with great success when I did my back half two summers ago. Watch the frame reinforcement plates over the rear. If the weep holes are clogged, the crud buildup in between the frame and plates can be pretty spectacular. PICS!!!
 
Ive been doing bits and pieces of the frame at a time, which means using a couple different brands. The one i like best is the VHT epoxy paint. I got the frame down to bare metal used a flapper wheel and stripper wheel for the rust. Heres before/after
P1000366_zpsce7f6d24.jpg

P1000367_zps40284ec9.jpg

P1000373_zps95741a41.jpg
 
09BlackXLT said:
Sam, what other products have you tried, and why is the VHT your favorite?
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Ive tried rustoleum chassis black, rustoleum truck bed liner (shown on the calipers and coil springs), por15 (looked good at first but a year down the road i could peel it off).

The VHT epoxy paint sprayed on very smooth, very consistent, and dried rock hard even though i sprayed it on thick. And it looks very close to factory chassis black.

This winter will be the test, even though im not driving my truck in the snow its still sitting outside. If it holds up to my satisfaction ill be using it on the rest of the frame.
 
On my red 94 I used MAB rustolastic metal paint. After seeing the union painters painting I beams with it.
 
Bumps, you shouldn't post truck porn like that.... now I have to go back and start over.....:tu
 
I figure I would throw this out there. I have done a couple truck like this, but not lightnings yet

1. sandblast frame clean

2. POR15 as a PRIMER(sprayed)

3.Valspar tractor black(formerly available from Tractor Supply) put on while POR15 is still wet(sprayed)











These pics are from 3 weeks ago. This truck had been driven 3 winter since the frame was done, it holds up quite well as you can see.






 
bumperquip said:
Rustoleum Hammer Metal Black ... brush applied.

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I'm favoring this method because I like the look, it doesn't have to be spray applied to look good, and I can get the RO Hammered free.

I'm about to ask what is probably a dumb question, but I've never done this before so here goes....

Do you just paint over fasteners?

Exactly how much needs to be taken off the frame to "do it right"?

Any items in particular would you say are "musts" to have to detach from the frame? Fuel lines, electrical, suspension mounts, etc? I figure gas tanks will probably have to be removed, particularly if a wire wheel is coming into play on that end (although I figure back end is getting blasted).

Don't really want to have to take apart spindles. At the most involved I am considering dropping the front suspension if I think I need i-beam bushings and such anyway. Do not want to drop rear axle.

I'm taking more of the Anton's approach. I plan to do a core support and I'll be pulling the bed. I'll take more off the front end than probably what is the minimum requirement to do a core support just so I can gain good access to the frame up front.

I figure I'll be doing a mix of blasting and traditional prep depending on the piece I'm working on.
 
well, the more you take off, the better prep you do, the better it will turn out and the longer it will last.

Short of going the Jamie V route and stripping the whole frame and having it powder coated, itll be tough to be able to prep and paint everything
 
EEWWW EEEWWW I'll Play!!!

Same paint, same method as Bump. Except the sway bar and steering stabilizer. Its RO Flat Black rattle can paint.



 
RazinCain said:
EEWWW EEEWWW I'll Play!!!

Same paint, same method as Bump. Except the sway bar and steering stabilizer. Its RO Flat Black rattle can paint.



Click to expand...

Looks great! This is definitely in my near future.. I assume you brushed on as well?
 
Lucifer Sam 2 said:
well, the more you take off, the better prep you do, the better it will turn out and the longer it will last.

Short of going the Jamie V route and stripping the whole frame and having it powder coated, itll be tough to be able to prep and paint everything
Click to expand...

Oh, for sure....but, like most projects I have planned for the truck, I'm just trying to find that point of diminishing returns for a guy who doesn't have the time, skills, tools, or know-how to pull an entire truck to pieces and get it back together again.

I'm just trying to do enough work to the truck to safeguard it against future rot. I have a second car to drive right now that I plan to sell when the major work on the truck is done, so for the foreseeable future this spring/summer is the only time I have to do work that is more than weekend jobs.

I don't really have a desire to take the truck on a years-long mission to turn it into a borderline show truck....but I wouldn't mind spending some time and some sweat equity in making it "really nice" and relatively rust-proofed for years of enjoyment.
 
Kevin!

Hey my friend!

Yup. Brushed it on. However, some of the hard to reach spots had to be hit with the rattle can version of the hammered black paint. But 98% was brushed on.
 
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