Oil Drain Hose

Turbosvt93

Turbosvt93

Active member
I am redoing mine. I am going with braided hose. What size AN should I go with to get proper drainage.

Adam
 
I'd say at least -10. You want the oil to drain as freely as possible from the motor. Allows it to keep fresh oil constantly (no backup) in the turbo, lubricating and cooling.
 
Sal, used a -8 for the return on the Red truck needless to say the oil seal is leaking and has dumped oil throughout the intake tract.
 
Then 10 it is. Now what location as far as returning it is best. On a Gen 1 of coarse. In the pan, valve cover, or a saw a way through the front cover were the fuel pump would have gone. In in the pan where is the best spot. I have one of those adapters from DSS so I dont have to tap the pan.

I am redoing some things and I want to make sure its done right.
 
I am running -8 on mine. It is not the return line that has caused the issue. Its the oil pressure on the top side of the turbo. Those with the high pressure/volume pump have issues. Those with the stock pump are fine.

I am working on a pressure regulator setup that will fix this issue.

Gonna put in a turbo after-oiler (accumsump) with a pressure regulator. This will keep the oil pressure to the turbo at a good pressure and keep it constant

Oh and I am using -10
 
Last edited:
skidmarkracing said:
I am running -8 on mine. It is not the return line that has caused the issue. Its the oil pressure on the top side of the turbo. Those with the high pressure/volume pump have issues. Those with the stock pump are fine.

I am working on a pressure regulator setup that will fix this issue.

Gonna put in a turbo after-oiler (accumsump) with a pressure regulator. This will keep the oil pressure to the turbo at a good pressure and keep it constant
Click to expand...

Is the regulator going to be available in a kit at all? Sal thought that the -8 was what caused it but if its a pressure thing I would be up for such a regulator/accumsump set up.
 
Yes I will set them up as a kit.

That can cause the issue. Not hard to swap out to a -10 line. Also you want to make sure it is as verticle as possible
 
Scott, I run a restrictor orifice with the ball bearing turbo. Had no issue with a thrust bearing unit.

From what I understand, the BB units are very finicky about too much oil, and they require very little to stay happy.
 
I run a -10an drain and a -3an feed line with no restrictor.Absolutley no oil in the IC pipes or intake:)


Cartridge style turbs require more oil then the ball bearing turbos.
 
Well I knew I had a leak problem, though I didnt know how bad. I pulled out the intercooler and drained about half a qt. from it. Im pretty sure Im running a -4 inlet hose and I know Im running a hi pressure hi voume pump.
The oil issue and the fact that the turbo was resting up against the cam sensor and melted it grounding it out causing a host of drivability problems.
I have to have the seal replaced in the turbo and move it just to keep it off of the cam sensor (heat shield as well) and poss. switch the oil pump. The accumsump is also looking to be the next mod to the set up as well.

I have had a whole host of things that Ive had to do to Sals truck but Ive slowly been shakin it down piece by piece. I hope to have her ready by spring.

Scott

PS This new turbo section is the best thing to happen to this site :D
 
OrangeV6F150 said:


Cartridge style turbs require more oil then the ball bearing turbos.
Click to expand...

You mean journal or bushing bearing turbos? Then that statement would be true.

I believe all Garrett ball bearing turbos are cartridge style set-ups.

I usually recommend a -4 AN feed and at least a -10 drain. Also, make sure there is not too much crankcase pressure nor is the drain entering a point where the crank is creating turbulance that restricts oil drainage.

- Brian
 
Scott, give a restrictor a try before you get too far into more complex solutions. Mine is .043" dia. I'm changing my drain setup a bit over the winter and will see if I can increase that any.
 
I actually made my own because I was swinging and missing trying to get it to stop leaking. Several trips back to Turbonetics and a whole new center section and it kept leaking. It was really annoying because my older non-BB was drained to the valve cover and never had any problem at all. The T76 had a whole new drain setup that went down to the pan.

So, I bought some ¼” NPT (female of the turbo) to 1/8” NPT (male of the flare fitting to the line) reducers and some 1/8” pipe plugs. I tapped the bottom of the reducers for 1/8” NPT and screwed the plugs in as far as I could go with them then cut them off flush and drilled progressively smaller holes in them (ended up making 6 or 8) until it quit leaking.

I found out what a lot of guys do is make a similar gizmo, but have it fitted for a carb jet instead of drilling the smaller and smaller holes. They then use progressively smaller jets until they find that sweet spot.
 
I just started playing with it, and found a super easy way. My nitrous pills work perfect. Spoke with Dalton and he suggested .55 nitrous pill to start with
 
Just a curiuos question, should I start by putting in the restrictors and get it to stop leaking before I have the turbos seals redone? or will this fix the problem out right?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top