Cruise control took a dump

S

sstock

Active member
I figured I'd replace the deactivater switch because of all the fire hazard recalls and get it working again, ran me $22 and I'm back up and running.
Steve
 
Steve is the new switch any different then the old one? Even though my truck has not burned to the ground yet, I figured that I should change it.
 
Yes it is an updated design and comes with a adapter harness because the connector is different, it all but took 60 seconds to install, cheap insurance, if you ask me.
 
I'm gonna change mine too. I looked it over closely and it looks clean and perfect but I'm not takin' a chance on this one!!!

Mike
 
I hope that is what's wrong with mine.

I have a new (used but working) cruise module to install. But, maybe its just the switch.

Steve, can you tell us what your symptons were? Did it power (crusie light on) but not work? No cruise light at all?

Mine does nothing. Zilch. May as well be pushing the door locks to turn the cruise on.
 
Damn I wish ford woulda done a recall on these units.........seems like every gen 1 I know of theirs broke......I don't even have the unit in my new truck, and the old truck I had it stopped working at about 90k..........I was jus too lazy to fix it because I don't really use it........Maybe someday I'll get around to fixing it!
 
John, thats it for the '93. The 94-95 is up on the master cylinder.
Kevin, The cruise just doesnt work, my 94 doesnt have the light, but a good way to check the deactivator is to remove the harness from the switch and put a OHM meter across the two terminals on the switch. If the resistance is not between 0-1 OHMs the switch is defective and will not allow the cruise to set.

Steve
 
Steve, thanks for all the info and the part #'s. The cruise on my '94 Bronco quit working recently. I checked the usual stuff
but not that switch. Gonna check that today, hopefully it's the problem. Either way I'm replacing them both.

Mike
 
I actually had a defective switch on my 94. After I had the Cervini hood paited and back on my truck, the damn switch blew out the top, spraying the fluid onto the hood ruining the paint. Come to find out, the tapered threads (Pipe) were not configured onto the part. That little mess cost me about $400.00. KEN
 
sstock said:
I figured I'd replace the deactivater switch because of all the fire hazard recalls and get it working again, ran me $22 and I'm back up and running.
Steve
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info I guess Ill change mine too!!
 
Steve you the man...... is that switch right on top of the master (95) cylinder on top.. :D i will have Cruise



Side note if your ac has stopped... you might check the hi psi switch on top of the receiver dryer... worked for me..:D
 
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So given that my clock spring is shot and I have no horn, airbag, or cruise at this point should I even bother with changing this switch or just unplug it?
 
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