AC Experts ... Refrigerant Oil Question

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bumperquip

Active member
I've lost all of the refrigerant from the system in my Nissan resulting in a non-operational compressor.

I'm pretty certain that the leak is the low-side service valve in the low-side hose.

Although all of the refrigerant has been lost, there is no evidence of the discharge of any PAG.

That being the case, upon replacement of the offending valve and the recharge of the system with refrigerant, attaining the proper low-side and high-side pressures, no oil needs to be or should be added ... am I correct?
 
lightning_2000 said:
I would go ahead and flush the system. New oil

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Agree! Flush and evacuate the system and charge again, somewhere in the hood or manual it will say how many oz of oil the system needs


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needmorepower said:
I find it surprising that no oil would have escaped when the system discharged. How slowly did it leak out?
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Not real sure Ken.

One AM, it worked perfect ... that same PM it blew warm but the compressor cycled ... the next AM no nothing.

It seems as though the system rid itself of all refrigerant over about 24 hours.

In doing my initial visual inspection of the system, I inadvertently depressed the relief pin in the low side schrader valve and not so much as a hiss was heard, telling me the system is pretty friggin empty.
 
bumperquip said:
Not real sure Ken.

One AM, it worked perfect ... that same PM it blew warm but the compressor cycled ... the next AM no nothing.

It seems as though the system rid itself of all refrigerant over about 24 hours.

In doing my initial visual inspection of the system, I inadvertently depressed the relief pin in the low side schrader valve and not so much as a hiss was heard, telling me the system is pretty friggin empty.
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You're a pretty methodical person. Since there's no way to tell how much oil is in it, I wouldn't take any chances. A credible shop can put in some refrigerant with a dye that's detected with a UV light to find the leak. From there flush the system and go with new refrigerant and oil.
 
Trust me you’d see oil. I’d repair, vacuum and charge it.. it will be fine. I’d be more concerned about how long it’s been empty and with air in it possibly so I’d consider a drier change. But if it any pressure at all was still on n it I wouldn’t worry.
 
Yeah, I'd also say have a shop find the leak, vac the system and refill. It's the only way you'll be able to have peace of mind (assuming it's a reputable shop).
 
Roll down the windows.
AC is for sissies.


Charge it and run it.
If it leaked and has not been OPEN then to the outside and you see no oil should be good.




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Recharge with dye. Find leak.
Then do maintenance.

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Of course use a recovery unit. Do not just vent it.
 
If it is so bad it will not go below 30k micron, then the gas will just spray out.

One place to look is behind the clutch.
 
You need proper gauges, the harbor freight set, is a good cheap start, and there little vacuum pump. The recovery unit part is where the real expense will start.
 
Sanchezj360 said:
Don says a/c is for sissies but had the black L a/c colder than Alaska.:)
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True
And the G2 has cold AC.
However I rarely use(d) it.
Long trips yup I will but 90% of my trips are short and the AC is just about feeling good when you arrive so I dont bother generally.




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I did the UV inspection thing (totally dark garage, UV light, super-awesome yellow glasses), from the top and underneath the whole AC system.

Due to a previous repair, dye is already in the system.

The only place where dye was seen was inside the low side service valve.

I replaced both of the service valves and put the system on a vacuum for about 45 minutes.

Upon letting the system sit, vacuum was lost only on the low pressure side.

My intent is to re-seat the low side service valve and try the vacuum test again.

I’m prepared to once again replace the valve ... I understand these are quite weak links.

Any thoughts?

I’m wondering if I need to tear into the dash and get at the evaporator.
 
You know it should be like on a tire valve stem and you can replace the inner core of the filler Bump. I assume your refer to these when you say fill valve
About a 85 cent part.
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