skidmarkracing
My wife says i'm retarded
not hard for the install, however you do need to weld the angle point on it. I can make a few of them up if people want them.
Pro Turbo Systems - Install
- Thread starter airtroop01
- Start date
driven to build
New setup to come...Again
Dumb Question
What is the angle point?
Driven
What is the angle point?
Driven
skidmarkracing
My wife says i'm retarded
not a dumb question at all. That is the angle where you attach the upper portion of the rod to allow the bolt to go through and connect to the motor.
badpuppy6942
Member
yes,
http://www.proturbokits.com/vids/cat.asp?iCat=6
Watch the vid, shows the entire setup... Hope this helps
http://www.proturbokits.com/vids/cat.asp?iCat=6
Watch the vid, shows the entire setup... Hope this helps
Ronnie
Will Work For Truck Parts
Bringing this one back to life. Airtroop from the looks of it, is their no other way to route the down pipe over the cross member back?? There has to be some other way whether changing the angle of downpipe and pushing the piping straight back on the passenger side. That would probably mean eliminating the A/C, but I could live with that. Thanks Ronnie
airtroop01
Active member
Ronnie said:
IMHO, It would be tight. You might be able to do it, but I'd be concerned as the motor torques over that pipes would be hitting something. Have you seen the pics from mhayes install? He told me it doesn't rub anywhere yet. So if you're dead set on redirecting the DP, he would be one to talk to.
I can tell you this with the PTS downpipe. As long as I've had the kit on my truck, I haven't once hit the downpipe. I've driven the truck to work, to Home Depot, Costco, to downtown San Francisco, San Diego, etc... basically over potholes, speed bumps, crappy roads and steep driveways.
Dalton at Pro Turbo said if I was willing to go to Texas, he would design a 4" ovalled DP for the kit - giving more clearance and more power.
Now with that said, the place where I have had clearance issues is at the crossover from the driver's side exhaust where it curves up front near the steering box. The pitman arm has tagged the crossover pipe and "clearanced" it a bit. That's the part that makes me :cuss: :cr:
Ronnie
Will Work For Truck Parts
As crazy as I am, you just might see me with this kit with a 4" down pipe mounted on. I am thinking it should clear everything. I just don't like the idea of it going underneath the crossmember. I do have the resources to change the downpipe position. Another question. You have the 38mm turbo waste gate on, right? How much of a difference would there be to switching to a 55mm turbo waste gate? I am making 670 with the Whipple on(same as the KB did). I am looking to make 770 at the same boost level which was 20 psi. What do you think? Thanks a lot and this thread is awesome info!!!
airtroop01
Active member
I'm with you on that Ronnie! The 4" DP is something that I'm going to go to as soon as I get things all dialed in. There's free hp there in doing that.
With the wastegate, my understanding is that running higher boost doesn't necessarily require a larger wastegate. Being that the job of the wastegate is to dump exhaust pressure to lower boost pressure, I've heard that in fact the opposite is often true where running lower boost requires a larger wastegate than high boost applications. The lower the boost requirements, the more exhaust has to flow through the wastegate valve. If you notice that you're getting boost creep and your boost controller still is having problems bleeding off the extra boost, then I'd say a larger one is in order.
I'm sure BadasL or FMOS would be able to explain the wastegate theory a lot better than I can. But I thought I'd spurt out my understanding of it all.
Nice numbers with the Whipple + KB! No doubt that you wouldn't pick up another 100-150 hp or so going to a turbo.
With the wastegate, my understanding is that running higher boost doesn't necessarily require a larger wastegate. Being that the job of the wastegate is to dump exhaust pressure to lower boost pressure, I've heard that in fact the opposite is often true where running lower boost requires a larger wastegate than high boost applications. The lower the boost requirements, the more exhaust has to flow through the wastegate valve. If you notice that you're getting boost creep and your boost controller still is having problems bleeding off the extra boost, then I'd say a larger one is in order.
I'm sure BadasL or FMOS would be able to explain the wastegate theory a lot better than I can. But I thought I'd spurt out my understanding of it all.
Nice numbers with the Whipple + KB! No doubt that you wouldn't pick up another 100-150 hp or so going to a turbo.
I personally feel like if you have boost creep at low boost, you're going to have more boost creep at high boost when the motor starts to really move air. I have none on the big block below 10 psi, but above 13, it starts to inch up in the long third gear pull.
I made some changes to the wastegate plumbing that will hopefully mitigate that so some extent.
38mm is pretty small for the amount of airflow these relatively big engines have.
I made some changes to the wastegate plumbing that will hopefully mitigate that so some extent.
38mm is pretty small for the amount of airflow these relatively big engines have.
Well, it's all speculation since I can only report what I've seen in other applications - but a big motor need to bypass a lot of air...
If you already have a 38mm, by all means use it and see if it works. If it doesn't, it's only the matter of some $$ and a couple of clamps to change to a 42mm.
If you already have a 38mm, by all means use it and see if it works. If it doesn't, it's only the matter of some $$ and a couple of clamps to change to a 42mm.
