Water to Air Intercooler Setup

mikerunt

mikerunt

Member
Went to the dyne this AM and put up:

307hp / 411tq at the wheels
8lbs of boost at 5600rpm
Clean and consistent AFR through the whole pass(es)

I am happy with this for a truck I drive everyday to work (100miles round trip) from Los Angeles to Orange County. at times, I am sitting in 45mins of traffic.

That being said, tuner mentioned a good next step would be Water to Air Intercooler setup and suggested this frozen boost setup:

http://www.frozenboost.com/index.php?products_id=1006

My Questions:
- is this kit decent or crap - the pump looks one for a kids aquarium
- what is missing from this kit that I will need to purchase?
- any horror stories with Water to Air setups?
- any large gain or benefit to Water to Air setup?

My Truck Specs:
- Stock heads, cam, intake
- Powderdyne BD11A with 2.73 (?) pulley
- MSD6BTM
- Long tube headers

Would love to get your all's thoughts.
 
You did not list an intercooler, are you already running one? Lots of guys in TX running boost with just an intercooler. Not sure if they are daily to the tune of 100 mile each day.

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Powerdynes don't make near as much heat as vortechs/turbos

Next step would be some aluminum heads, or a vortech because the powerdyne probably isn't happy being spun that fast

I would also be looking for belt slip, 307 rwhp seems a bit light to me
 
Like they said above, it’s not worth the money on your setup. I’m not sure what your full current setup is but not guess that run those usually have to have them and have a wilder setup.


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even with 8lbs of boost at 5600 rpms, you think there may be belt slip??

Lucifer Sam 2 said:
Powerdynes don't make near as much heat as vortechs/turbos

Next step would be some aluminum heads, or a vortech because the powerdyne probably isn't happy being spun that fast

I would also be looking for belt slip, 307 rwhp seems a bit light to me
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not currently - that is what I exploring - should I add one, and if so, is this a good option:

http://www.frozenboost.com/index.php?products_id=1006

Dark Lord said:
You did not list an intercooler, are you already running one? Lots of guys in TX running boost with just an intercooler. Not sure if they are daily to the tune of 100 mile each day.

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once I pop this powerdyne I will upgrade to Vortech - agree with you there.

you think aluminum heads, plus cam and new intake...just heads?

Lucifer Sam 2 said:
Powerdynes don't make near as much heat as vortechs/turbos

Next step would be some aluminum heads, or a vortech because the powerdyne probably isn't happy being spun that fast

I would also be looking for belt slip, 307 rwhp seems a bit light to me
Click to expand...
 
With a 2.73" upper pulley? Yes

I seem to remember making around that boost with a powerdyne and a 3.00" pulley and an otherwise stock engine

I mostly recommended aluminum heads because you need to pull a fair amount of timing for iron heads
But yes at least a cam to go with it would be best

Are you using the powerdyne air box?
I remember that being a huge restriction, stick the biggest cone filter you can on it, the powerdyne charge pipe would also heat up and shrink on me and cause a boostleak
 
If your really set on an I/C, just run an Air/Air. Water to Air will be pointless on a 100 mile trip. The ice will be melted and you'll be running hot, heat soaked, water through it. Not cold water.....
 
Thank you very much. best way to to determine belt slip? it doesn't make any noticeable hesitations or show issues, so wondering how I determine that. thoughts on something like this:

https://928motorsports.com/parts/6ribpulley.php

No power dyne airbox on my setup.

Lucifer Sam 2 said:
With a 2.73" upper pulley? Yes

I seem to remember making around that boost with a powerdyne and a 3.00" pulley and an otherwise stock engine

I mostly recommended aluminum heads because you need to pull a fair amount of timing for iron heads
But yes at least a cam to go with it would be best

Are you using the powerdyne air box?
I remember that being a huge restriction, stick the biggest cone filter you can on it, the powerdyne charge pipe would also heat up and shrink on me and cause a boostleak
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def not set on it - just trying to get the feedback and inout of people smarter than me before I spend a bunch of cash on parts.

sounds like overall the vote is no to intercooler, yes to heads and cam as next steps.

lightn95 said:
If your really set on an I/C, just run an Air/Air. Water to Air will be pointless on a 100 mile trip. The ice will be melted and you'll be running hot, heat soaked, water through it. Not cold water.....
Click to expand...
 
Overall no air to water intercooler

Air to air can help a bunch but with a powerdyne I don’t know if it’s worth the cost.

When you go to a vortech it can help a bunch.

Heads and a SD friendly cam will gain a bunch of power.
 
thank you - much appreciated.

if anyone has a good, proven, steerable heads / cam setup they have dug - please share! I am sure there are a lot...

Jamie V said:
Overall no air to water intercooler

Air to air can help a bunch but with a powerdyne I don’t know if it’s worth the cost.

When you go to a vortech it can help a bunch.

Heads and a SD friendly cam will gain a bunch of power.
Click to expand...
 
I remember back in the day a few guys tried to put an intercooler on the powerdyne but couldn't spin it high enough to overcome the boost loss well. It was decided that the dyne runs a bit cooler especially at those lower boost levels than other blowers. At 8psi I wouldn't worry about a thing other than your tune up and octane.
 
slow94 said:
I remember back in the day a few guys tried to put an intercooler on the powerdyne but couldn't spin it high enough to overcome the boost loss well. It was decided that the dyne runs a bit cooler especially at those lower boost levels than other blowers. At 8psi I wouldn't worry about a thing other than your tune up and octane.
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The KB blowers did not run an intercooler and the blowzilla I did more than 8 PSI. My 1.5 will do 8 with the smallest pulley and they did not come with an intercooler either.

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My dyno prediction for this truck was 305/417. I'm damn near psychic!

As the other guys have said, I wouldn't bother with an intercooler for the Powerdyne. You don't have belt slip right now, either, because it has that idler pulley installed on it to increase belt wrap. You would have also seen belt slip on the dyno because the rate of rise for the boost would have dropped off compared to the rate of rise of the engine rpm if the belt started slipping. It used to slip, until I added that idler. Side note; a good, working Powerdyne is worth more than a blown one. :grin1:

Heads and cam would be good upgrades, though if it were me I would start with more boost (blower upgrade) and better fuel delivery set-up/tune, then do heads and cam later if you're still not happy with the power level. Also a 3,000 stall converter and E-fans.
 
Heck I run 15lbs non intercooled. I keep good octane in it if I'm gonna be beating on it. Also have methanol injection for the street.
 
needmorepower said:
My dyno prediction for this truck was 305/417. I'm damn near psychic!

As the other guys have said, I wouldn't bother with an intercooler for the Powerdyne. You don't have belt slip right now, either, because it has that idler pulley installed on it to increase belt wrap. You would have also seen belt slip on the dyno because the rate of rise for the boost would have dropped off compared to the rate of rise of the engine rpm if the belt started slipping. It used to slip, until I added that idler. Side note; a good, working Powerdyne is worth more than a blown one. :grin1:

Heads and cam would be good upgrades, though if it were me I would start with more boost (blower upgrade) and better fuel delivery set-up/tune, then do heads and cam later if you're still not happy with the power level. Also a 3,000 stall converter and E-fans.
Click to expand...

You are a psychic! Tuner also commented on how well the truck was already set up - literally made not one change. Said “ truck is dialed, I wouldn’t touch a thing” and then went off on the I/C need blah blah.

He did say MAF swap would be good also.
 
slow94 said:
Heck I run 15lbs non intercooled. I keep good octane in it if I'm gonna be beating on it. Also have methanol injection for the street.
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15 lbs? Nice, how hot is it outside? I live in AZ and my truck hates the heat.

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A little timing play - but ultimately kept it where it was at the end. The truck is set up perfect for the configuration right now (per tuner). Only adjustments would come from if I made tweaks (heads / cam / etc) but as it sits it’s dialed.

$150 p/hr , as many pulls as that gets. Includes the time to get the truck setup.

needmorepower said:
My dyno prediction for this truck was 305/417. I'm damn near psychic!

As the other guys have said, I wouldn't bother with an intercooler for the Powerdyne. You don't have belt slip right now, either, because it has that idler pulley installed on it to increase belt wrap. You would have also seen belt slip on the dyno because the rate of rise for the boost would have dropped off compared to the rate of rise of the engine rpm if the belt started slipping. It used to slip, until I added that idler. Side note; a good, working Powerdyne is worth more than a blown one. :grin1:

Heads and cam would be good upgrades, though if it were me I would start with more boost (blower upgrade) and better fuel delivery set-up/tune, then do heads and cam later if you're still not happy with the power level. Also a 3,000 stall converter and E-fans.
Click to expand...

needmorepower said:
Cool. Did you try playing with the timing retard at all?
How much did the session cost? And how many pulls did you do?
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