V2 upgrades on speed density?

Travis017

Travis017

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I finally got my v2 vortech installed and running over the weekend. Everything seems to be working as it should. I bought the charger used and am thinking I should probably rebuild it over the winter with fresh bearings and seals just so I know it’s good. Wondering if when it’s apart I should upgrade the impeller or make any other changes. Still on speed density with stock injectors and 12:1 fmu. 3.33 upper pulley and 8” lower, which is making about 8psi. No tuner just stock computer. I did upgrade the trans with a punisher valve body and 2800 circle D converter. Just wondering if it’s worth doing while it’s apart or if I’m going to need to do other upgrades if I start messing with the charger.
 
That boost level seems off for that pulley combo. I would think 10-12 psi. I would check for belt slip or see if the boost is plateauing. Do you have an upgraded fuel pump or an AFR gauge? If not, I would invest in one and a fuel pressure gauge as well. You will want to know those things when pushing boost. Also, 1 lower heat range plug and .030 gap and a MSD BTM helps with detonating. I would invest in those things before an upgraded impeller.


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ASAP said:
That boost level seems off for that pulley combo. I would think 10-12 psi. I would check for belt slip or see if the boost is plateauing. Do you have an upgraded fuel pump or an AFR gauge? If not, I would invest in one and a fuel pressure gauge as well. You will want to know those things when pushing boost. Also, 1 lower heat range plug and .030 gap and a MSD BTM helps with detonating. I would invest in those things before an upgraded impeller.


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Sorry I should have specified those things. Yes I have a msd btm as well as the lower range plugs. I also have a afr, boost, and fuel pressure gauge. I have an online fuel pump on a boost controlled switch as well. I see 60psi of fuel pressure when boost comes in. I thought I read where it should be closer to 100. Afr reads around 11.5 under boost. I have the msd set at 1 degree under boost and base timing set at 10 degrees. I hear no detonation and it seems to run well.
 
Ok good deal! I would check into the belt slip. My v3 made 14psi with a 8” crank pulley and 3.47 upper. But when it was slipping would only make 7-10 depending on how bad. I could clearly notice when it was slipping because it should keep going up through the rpm band


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Yes, with a 12:1 FMU, you should be close to 100, so your pump isn't getting you there. What's your AFR doing at WOT?
 
FMOS Racing said:
Yes, with a 12:1 FMU, you should be close to 100, so your pump isn't getting you there. What's your AFR doing at WOT?
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WOT I’m around 11:1 to 11.5:1 on the afr. Any chance I’m getting 60 psi without the pump coming on and just the fmu?
 
ASAP said:
Ok good deal! I would check into the belt slip. My v3 made 14psi with a 8” crank pulley and 3.47 upper. But when it was slipping would only make 7-10 depending on how bad. I could clearly notice when it was slipping because it should keep going up through the rpm band


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I have the superchargerrebuild.com bracket with their pulley and vortechs tensioner pulley. Belt seems to be plenty tight. Using a green gates belt as well. I’ll try to record my gauges on a hard pull and see what they do.
 
ASAP said:
Ok, I would say that’s close with that pulley.


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I didn’t think I had belt slip and the research I had done before buying parts said this was good for about 8psi.

So back to the first question is it worth replacing the impeller or should I leave it alone and just put in fresh bearings and seals.
 
What's your end game? If you intend to push harder and harder, then a more efficient impeller is good. If you're not going to feed a built motor, then you probably won't see a difference.
 
FMOS Racing said:
What's your end game? If you intend to push harder and harder, then a more efficient impeller is good. If you're not going to feed a built motor, then you probably won't see a difference.
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Plan is to leave the motor stock. Just want a nice cruiser with some boost. Wasn’t sure if upgrading may give it better driving characteristics or not. At this time I have no intentions going crazy with power. I’m hoping once dialed in I’m close to the 400hp. Not sure if that’s possible or not. It does sound like I need to see why I’m not getting all the fuel pressure I need.
 
I’d stick with the impeller you have and get that in-line squared away. I ran a similar setup and it was obvious when it kicked on, it was a t-Rex.
 
Required said:
I’d stick with the impeller you have and get that in-line squared away. I ran a similar setup and it was obvious when it kicked on, it was a t-Rex.
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I need to check it. I was thinking it would lean out real bad without it but maybe not.
 
Travis017 said:
I need to check it. I was thinking it would lean out real bad without it but maybe not.
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test the FMU and your Hobbs triggered pump using vacuum hose and an air compressor set to 5psi. Or use a bike pump if you can’t regulate your compressor low enough. You’ll hear stuff click and see fuel pressure change. It was a pain but I felt better after I did it.
 
Still messing with this issue. Got my Hobbs switch sorted out, turns out I ran the wires to the fuse panel but never hooked them up. Then I had to adjust the switch low enough to work. Now it wraps the gauge around back to zero so well over 100psi. But I’m still only seeing about 5-6 psi of boost.
 
Travis017 said:
Still messing with this issue. Got my Hobbs switch sorted out, turns out I ran the wires to the fuse panel but never hooked them up. Then I had to adjust the switch low enough to work. Now it wraps the gauge around back to zero so well over 100psi. But I’m still only seeing about 5-6 psi of boost.
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Look at the area around your blower pulley. Is there a lot of black dust?
 
It’s kinda hard without logs - my best advice is to do a third gear pull from 70 up and compare RPM to Boost. 3rd gear is like slow motion and a better load to watch these things.

Check your couplers, it’s not unusual. What is your bypass setup? Can you take pics of your setup? We are visual creatures, we like looking at pictures. Likely 30 people viewed this and didn’t respond, posting an image will help with that.
 
I guess pictures and info does help. Running the vortech bypass valve with the vortech fmu. The charge pipe and boots isn’t ideal but when I got the charger I didn’t realize my outlet was straight and not a 90. Eventually I’d like to clean it up. Stock ecu with a Hobbs switch and add on pump. Pulley setup is 3.33 supercharger and 6.87 crank pulley.
 

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