tune up time need some opinions

forcefedcobra

forcefedcobra

born 2 be blown
hey everyone. I recently purchased an almost stock gen 1 and it needs a tune up pretty bad. I'm fairly certain it still has the stock plugs, wires, etc on it and 121k miles.

What cap/rotor, plug wires, and plugs do you guys suggest?

The truck only has some minor supsension, welded in flowmasters, and I think an anderson CAI on it.

the truck runs pretty good but has a rough idle at times. I plan to clean the air filter and throttle body while I swap plugs and stuff.
 
I'd go all motorcraft. Check the timing! I'd do a coolant flush too along with oil flush not just a basic oil change. Get a magnetic oil drain plug too. They are only a few bucks and they do work. Run some higher octane through it and swap the fuel filter. Tranny fluid flush too. You know the drill.

If they didn't bother the change the plugs and wires over such a long period of time they for SURE didn't do the fuel filter. I doubt they ran quality gas through it. :nono: shame on them for being so cruel.

Expect the worst and hope for the best :rolleyes:
 
1of695 said:
I'd go all motorcraft. Check the timing! I'd do a coolant flush too along with oil flush not just a basic oil change. Get a magnetic oil drain plug too. They are only a few bucks and they do work. Run some higher octane through it and swap the fuel filter. Tranny fluid flush too. You know the drill.

If they didn't bother the change the plugs and wires over such a long period of time they for SURE didn't do the fuel filter. I doubt they ran quality gas through it. :nono: shame on them for being so cruel.

Expect the worst and hope for the best :rolleyes:
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The truck was very well taken care of by the previous owner but I'm sure there were things that were overlooked by my standards. This first round I was just planning on taking care of things under the hood and then a second round to include fixing the oil leak (pan or rear main seal) fuel filter, oil and trans flush and go through the rear end.

I guess I'll just head to the local ford dealer on Monday and order tune up parts.

what should the plugs be gapped at?
 
1of695 said:
Run some higher octane through it and swap the fuel filter.
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I'll read this advice now and then and frankly don't get it. If you're experiencing detonation (ping) then yes, run up the octane a notch. But as far as a peformance aid or for cylinder cleaning... you get nuthin.

Gap is .042 to .046. Typical recommendation is to gap it at smallest spec.
 
if it's stock change everything

oil and filter, plugs, wires, cap and rotor, rear diff with friction modifier, trans flush and filter, coolant flush and check the hoses (in az it's probably more important on that one) fuel filter, then you know everything is fresh and you actually feel more comfortable driving it. then if you want to dig in check the tie rods, ball joints, the shocks. the motor and trans mounts. then you should be golden
 
hey brandon
I got mine from Downs Ford
they have a complete kit for our trucks and it is a good deal
 
bumperquip said:
I'll read this advice now and then and frankly don't get it. If you're experiencing detonation (ping) then yes, run up the octane a notch. But as far as a peformance aid or for cylinder cleaning... you get nuthin.

Gap is .042 to .046. Typical recommendation is to gap it at smallest spec.
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I've heard both sides and sometimes with a 'new' vehicle you aren't aware of pinging. I feel higher octane helps maintain a cleaner system but I agree that it is no performance aid.
 
When you do the tune up, dont forget the PCV valve, clean the IACV and reinstall w/new gaskets. Use FoMoCo carb/fuel inj. cleaner (spray), its made to clean w/o damaging seals or o-rings. Check the serpentine for cracks too.

And, when doing a tune up, also dont forget the Oxygen-sensor, it will no doubt need replacing too(you may have two, mine has one). I change mine every 30,000 miles. At 146,000 still runs great, runs clean and gets 13.3mpg localy, 16mpg hiway.

New thermostat w/coolant flush-change. Preventative maintinance.
 
1of695 said:
I've heard both sides and sometimes with a 'new' vehicle you aren't aware of pinging. I feel higher octane helps maintain a cleaner system but I agree that it is no performance aid.
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With the newer (OBDII) vehicles, ping typically isn't noticable due to the presence of a knock sensor... but I'm telling you things you already know so I'll shut up.

But as far as the higher octane/engine cleaning thing, all grades of "branded" fuel contain typically the same detergent additives and typically in the same ratios. The only thing you're getting with the higher octane fuel is a quicker burning charge that's less prone to compression combustion, the later being the most noteworthy difference.

Sorry if I seem to go on and on about this but I can talk all day about the appropriate use of motor fuels and motor oils... I'm kinda weird that way.
 
1of695 said:
:eek:ldtu: What oil and weight recomendations would you have for him?
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With a stock motor... 10W30 or a 5W30 in a conventional. If he wants to run a synthetic and can find it, a synthetic 10W40 is always a good bet.

If you go strictly by the numbers, probably the best conventional oil is TropArtic, but it's very scarce. Next would be Chevron, Havoline and Shell.

As far as synthetics go, Amsoil rates pretty high, Pennzoil Platninum is excellent and believe it or not SuperTech full sunthetic is very highly rated.
 
No Castrol? :cr: What about on a "newer" 25K motor? I see he is a bit over 100k mark. My motor it around 25....currently I use Castrol in everything. I don't normally use synthetic except on our A4.

Sorry not trying to Jack the thread, but since we are on topic and all.
 
Have used Castrol GTX 10W40 in my '94 Bronco 164k, wife's '95 Explorer 159k, both since new.. not the first prob in either..
 
bumperquip said:
I'll read this advice now and then and frankly don't get it. If you're experiencing detonation (ping) then yes, run up the octane a notch. But as far as a peformance aid or for cylinder cleaning... you get nuthin.

Gap is .042 to .046. Typical recommendation is to gap it at smallest spec.
Click to expand...

I run the best fuel around in the highest octane so I'm not worried about that.

Thanks for the input on the plug gap!

badpony93 said:
if it's stock change everything

oil and filter, plugs, wires, cap and rotor, rear diff with friction modifier, trans flush and filter, coolant flush and check the hoses (in az it's probably more important on that one) fuel filter, then you know everything is fresh and you actually feel more comfortable driving it. then if you want to dig in check the tie rods, ball joints, the shocks. the motor and trans mounts. then you should be golden
Click to expand...

I'll do a minor tune up for now but since the railroad and my wife both have me in a financial pinch I wont be able to do everything I want right away. The front end and shocks were all done 7k miles before I bought it so that is all good and alot of the reason I finally pulled the trigger on a gen 1.

hotrodn93l said:
hey brandon
I got mine from Downs Ford
they have a complete kit for our trucks and it is a good deal
Click to expand...

Thanks Roddy! I'll look into that and get a few other small things that it might need like new belt, fuel filter, etc. I might have to put it up for sale if things dont pick back up at home or if OKC doesnt quit putting the screws to me on the unpaid familiarization and let me mark up to start getting a paycheck quick.

Hopefully things will pick up so I can stay at home and then I'll start going through the rest of the items that need to be flushed and what not.



thanks everybody for your help!:eek:ldtu:
 
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