Timing cover leaks, time for an upgrade?

svtlightning207

svtlightning207

Member
I've owned my truck for 6 years.. it hasn't leaked antifreeze for 2 weeks at the beginning of the season. The timing cover is leaking (oil/ antifreeze). Its time to tear it apart and fix. Was thinking of getting the arp bolts from LMR unless some one knows a better solution. Last time I did the water pump I purchased a dorman bolt kit I believe and there were a few bolts missing. Was also thinking about installing a cam while I had it apart. From what I'm reading.. from a lot of old archived post etc, the comp cam 35-255-5 seems to be a good upgrade. I've also read a few things regarding the HO mustang cam. I've seen alot of conflicting information regarding the mustang cam.. torque loss, not worth it etc, but I've also read that advancing it makes a difference as well. The truck is mostly stock (engine wise..- DUI coil, DUI distributor, Ford racing wires, plugs @ .055, k&n filter & 15 degree timing) Trans has a punisher VB & circle D 2600 Rpm converter. Which cam would do me well? I like the idea of going with the Ford cam. What would the cost difference be and where would a good place to get an entire kit be?
This will be a winter project.. along with the fact I need to get the truck repainted. Never ending project...
Thanks for any input.
 
are you interested in towing, street performance only, low/midrange torque, midrange/higher rpm power or what? are better heads and shorty or longtube headers in your future plans? what are your goals in making mods? might want to consider a hyd roller vs a flat tappet as long as your doing a lot of labor to upgrade.
 
jThe truck is used just for street use. I don't ever tow with it and rarely put anything in the back. Just looking for a little more get up and go. I will probably eventually do shortie headers on it, heads wouldn't be until I needed to rebuild the motor (hopefully a few years out) I forgot truck also has a full Bassani catted exhaust & efans. Im not looking for any specific HP number or ET, just more fun.
 
Im thinking that would require spring upgrades, pulling the heads at that point I don't think would be too overly difficult, however would upgrading the springs require machine work? The last time I spoke with the machine shop about a build they told me if you install different springs then doing a valve job would be recommended/ required.. I'd like to avoid that and save that for whenever I decide to rebuild the engine (and just go with upgraded heads as well) but if its as simple as just replacing the valve I wouldn't be opposed. I've also heard of people changing the valves with the heads still bolted on.. I feel like that may be more work than just pulling the heads? I'll look more into the steeda cam I haven't yet search the forums for information. Looking at some pricing on the mustang cams it doesn't seem as though they are all that much cheaper than an aftermarket..
 
svtlightning207 said:
Im thinking that would require spring upgrades, pulling the heads at that point I don't think would be too overly difficult, however would upgrading the springs require machine work? The last time I spoke with the machine shop about a build they told me if you install different springs then doing a valve job would be recommended/ required.. I'd like to avoid that and save that for whenever I decide to rebuild the engine (and just go with upgraded heads as well) but if its as simple as just replacing the valve I wouldn't be opposed. I've also heard of people changing the valves with the heads still bolted on.. I feel like that may be more work than just pulling the heads? I'll look more into the steeda cam I haven't yet search the forums for information. Looking at some pricing on the mustang cams it doesn't seem as though they are all that much cheaper than an aftermarket..
Click to expand...
you can change springs without removing heads using a fitting adapter in spark plug hole and compressed air. i've used a rope that will fit thru the spark plug hole several times, works great. get the cylinder to bdc and feed the rope into the cyl until it's fairly full. rotate crank to tdc as far as it will go. compressed rope holds the valves shut while changing springs. after springs are on rotate piston down and pull rope out. do a compression test on your engine before doing any mods. it will give you an idea of what condition the valve seats and rings are in. if it's ok, just leave the valves alone for now. new heads in your future rebuild plans will fix any slight situations that may exist.
 
shaunditty said:
Look at Steeda #19 cam
Click to expand...
do you know someone running that steeda cam with stock sd-efi? the 115 deg LSA is great, but generally speaking the 220 deg duration is sort of past the point of no return for oem stock sd-efi. may present idle quality problems (surge/hunt)?
 
bobwhite said:
do you know someone running that steeda cam with stock sd-efi? the 115 deg LSA is great, but generally speaking the 220 deg duration is sort of past the point of no return for oem stock sd-efi. may present idle quality problems (surge/hunt)?
Click to expand...

No but it would be cool for him to try so I can find out! Lol. I think Turner F used it but he had a tweecer
 
I think the comp cam listed 255-35-5 would be good. I wouldn’t get all hung up on roller or not. Flat tappets been making power for years. That cam supposedly falls off early Power wise but I imagine it’s due to lack of supporting mods to help it pull better up top like headers and correct springs. I would highly re omens springs and they can be changed with head on. Just need the right tools.
 
shaunditty said:
I think the comp cam listed 255-35-5 would be good. I wouldn’t get all hung up on roller or not. Flat tappets been making power for years. That cam supposedly falls off early Power wise but I imagine it’s due to lack of supporting mods to help it pull better up top like headers and correct springs. I would highly re omens springs and they can be changed with head on. Just need the right tools.
Click to expand...

i have a flat tappet lunati cam and it's ok and performs very well with rhoads original variable duration lifters. cam was in truck when i got it and has 216 deg int dur @ .050" and the unfortunate LSA of 112 deg which causes a slight shudder at idle from time to time. i too have a TwEECer RT which has helped a lot. i don't recommend my cam for oem stock sd-efi pcm's. just be sure to use a quality zddp additive to the oil if you go flat tappet.
 
Last edited:
Im probably going to put some shorties in first and piece mail the cam set up over winter and do it first thing spring.. Also have to paint the truck this winter, fender rot/ cab corners... have to love NYS. How would the Comp "speed density" cam compare to the HO cam? I drove another lightning today.... I have come to realize these trucks are all very slow in factory form not just mine! lol. I'm not opposed to flat tappet cams, I've been of the understanding that the hydraulic frees up HP due to friction & has better available cam profiles. Last I checked compression (3-4 years ago) I believe it was @ 150-160 range or 155-165.. Numbers all looked nice, I'll have to check again.
 
bobwhite said:
you can change springs without removing heads using a fitting adapter in spark plug hole and compressed air. i've used a rope that will fit thru the spark plug hole several times, works great. get the cylinder to bdc and feed the rope into the cyl until it's fairly full. rotate crank to tdc as far as it will go. compressed rope holds the valves shut while changing springs. after springs are on rotate piston down and pull rope out.
Click to expand...

2nd on the rope method,works great. :tu
 
I like the sound of the rope method- Seems like less can go wrong (lose air pressure for whatever reason). So what im planning- 1) fix timing cover- its worse than I thought. 2) put some shortie headers on. 3) collect parts to install cam 4) install cam. I'll start simple. Whats a decent timing chain set up? maybe something that has adjustability? If I could get some part numbers for components that would be great! Thanks in advance
 
the rope method is cheap, safe and you don't have to breathe crankcase fumes (pushed out by the comp air leaking past rings into crankcase) the entire time you're changing springs. go for a hyd roller if it's in your budget. you won't need zddp oil additive or special oil with extra zddp and no worries about problems breaking-in the new cam.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top