TCE Brake Bleeding

TTA89

Forced Induction Addict
I decided yesterday that I would blow out of work early and throw my "Q" pads in since its supposed to rain the rest of the week.

I took what was left of the "D" Pads out, they didn't wear evenly. The outer pads on both sides were clearly thinner than the inner pads for some reason? :? :?

In any case I cracked the bleeder and put the thin pad in and pushed the pistons back then cracked the other side and did the same thing. I seem to recall one side being alot easier to push back than the other as well, on both sides.

I put in the new Q pads and tightened the bolts. I had a friend of mine sit in the truck and pump the pedal.

Now, before I changed the pads the pedal was lower than I like and kinda spongy, I could bring on the ABS at 40-50mph and stop the truck good but the pedal feel wasn't great. If I was out playing around and heated up the brakes on the street you could feel the pedal getting soft, maybe this is due to the generic and old fluid I have in there getting hot?

So I started with the inside bleeder and did 3-4 "hold the pedal" routines and then did the outside bleeder and moved to the other side.

I went out to break in the brakes and they don't feel that hot. The pedal is still spongy and is in the "middle" where it was with the worn out pads. The rears have maybe 1000 miles on new Hawk Pads.

I did a couple stops from 65 using both feet and I can almost touch the pedal to the floor. The inital bite of the brakes is good but then its almost like they "fade" and the truck just doesn't stop like it used too, No ABS which I should Def be able to bring on at will.

So this is all kinda pre-mature since I plan to flush the system this weekend with Ford HD fluid. The rears have never been bleed, ever and I'm wondering if maybe I have air in there but the brakes feel worse after swapping the pads and I'm going to summit point in 3 weeks, I need to get the brakes working good again before I venture out there.

So what is the proper procedure for flushing and bleeding the entire system? So I just crack a rear bleeder and have someone pump the pedal and keep adding fresh fluid until it comes out clear in the back?

I drove a new Cobra a few weeks back and the pedal was rock hard, not at all like what mine is. I can sit at a stop light and push the pedal close to the floor, it was like this before the pad swap and the truck stopped good but I was hoping to fix this with new pads and a not so complete brake bleeding.
 
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Always do the outer bleeder first. If you have air in the caliper you can pull it from side to sid or not fully remove it.

Like the old single circuit systems; farthest bleeder first.

Personally, I'd simply open the outer for about 10m and let it run into a drain pan. Then do the inner the same way. Then do the pump and squirt on each three times- outer first.

From the pad wear I'd suspect both air in the inside if spongy and also that the outer pad will run hotter. Not much you can do about the temps.

**btw, don't let the reservoir run dry during the drain!
 
Also get that old fluid out of there!

ARTE Super Blue works great I have used it in my truck at the track for two years and NEVER boiled the fluid.

J
 
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