Questions before buying

rusty_408

rusty_408

Rusty
I Support the NLOC
Also post on the FB Group


I have questions before buying....

What IAC are you all using? Seems that the best way is to use holley default GM sensor and use the accufab or similar adapter.
Do all my factory gauges still work?
What considerations are there for flex fuel? I'm going back with dual tanks eventually and keeping E85 in one and 93 in the other.
Are you all using knock protection? What considerations there? I'm running a novi 2000 and protection against knock is attractive, but i see everyone turning this off on the online setups i've researched.
I still have TFI, but would like to understand the Dual sync and ignition options. What diz are your all using? OR crank/cam sensor? I've seen some funky crank sensor setups and would prefer to avoid the need for that sensor. Stinger has a decent adapter out there that retains the factory unit, but it looks like one output. Holley looks like they have options that keep single coil with a standard cap/rotor. OR do you all go COP with some other easier way?
Who's doing remote tunes?
 
All great questions, for the sake of learning I will interested in the responses.
 
From Matt on FB:
You can use a stock Ford PWM IAC or a GM or Chrysler unit. We prefer to wire in the Ford PWM unit because it is more responsive. It also does not require buying anything additional.
Flex fuel we can add in a sensor and use additional table controls to adapt. That's a great feature.
I don't use knock protection on Windsors. I have no calibration data or engineering study lay it out in a proper fashion OE style to detect true knock vs false knock. I've never had a problem going into my 20th year of tuning this way. I honestly only use knock protection on much more modern cars where the technology and calibration has gotten much, much better.
The standard kits I bundle use a TFI module. I can do dual sync distributors and cut out the need for the cam and crank sensors. I stock Windsor dual sync distributors. One note: Unless going coil on/near plug, you need a CDI box to run a dual sync. I recommend Daytona Sensors.
We can easily run coil on plug with a dual sync and many of us run "smart coils" that are capable of 3000hp+ and easy methanol ignition at high boost.

From Curtis on FB
I used the stock IAC with no problem. All my gauges work just like stock. I would recommend swapping to a dual sync. It just makes everything easier IMO.
I'm running a HP and Quick 4 for 6 or 7 years with little to no problems.
 
I also asked Matt "So you use the same dual sync distributor for COP set ups? You just toss the cap and rotor?" to which he said "Same distributor and a blank, low profile cap."

Still looking for any other experience
 
A friend of mine runs a holley on a foxbody (similar enough i suppose), stock TFI, stock IAC, no knock sensors. unless CNP,COP you don't need the dual sync of the crank trigger stuff. He said the TFI harness adapter was like $15 extra.

Oil pressure and coolant temp run thru the stock wiring harness so unless the holley harness provides them aswell you may need to run them separately. The rest should function regardless.
 
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