MK VIII E-Fan and StruckBy Controller Install

Ranchero 1968

Ranchero 1968

"Mr. Happy"
***NOTE*** You will first need to upgrade the charging system to atleast a 130 amp alternator. The little 95 amp OEM Spec alternator will be overstressed once the E-Fan is installed.

Below are links to my Battery Cable and 130 Amp Alternator Upgrade
http://www.nloc.net/vbforum/how-articles/214706-tips-strucby-battery-alternator-cable-install.html
http://www.nloc.net/vbforum/how-articles/214729-130-amp-alternator-install.html

I decided it was time for an E-Fan upgrade so I contacted Ed and purchased a ready-to-go MK VIII fan and controller.The fan arrived a few days later by UPS. What do you get with Ed’s fan/controller kit? A well packed box with a MK VIII fan and a StruckBy controller, you will need to fabricate your own fan brackets for this installation.

Tools/parts used for my fan install:
1. 8 mm socket: for upper OEM fan shroud bolts
2. 7/16” ratcheting box end: for water pump pulley bolts
3. 7/16” socket: for E-fan bracket hardware
4. 5/16” hex head wrench: to remove pipe plug from thermostat (t-stat) housing
5. Rags: to absorb anti-freeze/coolant
6. 13/16” deep socket: to tighten thermo switch in t-stat housing
7. No. 2/Medium cross-point screw driver: to install controller and max fuse housing
8. 7 mm socket: to remove under dash screw for toggle switch & LED light brackets
9. Diagonal wire cutters, wire stripper wrench, Super 88 3M tape, grommet kit, wire terminal kit
10. Pocket knife
11. Halogen work lights
12. Hack-saw and vise: for cutting metal brackets
13. Hack-saw and file: to remove OEM brackets from MK VIII fan shroud
14. Coarse file: to smooth and round off edges of brackets
15. Gray primer spray paint: for E-Fan and under dash brackets
16. Satin Black spray paint: for E-Fan brackets
17. Satin Clear spray paint: for under dash brackets
18. Dielectric grease: for all electrical contacts
19. Fender protector
20. Mechanics gloves
21. Black zip-ties
22. 5/16” fuel hose: for controller anti-vibration device
23. Four 5/16” flat washers: for water pump pulley bolts
24. ½” socket or ratcheting box end wrench: to disconnect StruckBy battery cables and alternator cable at alternator
25. Flat nose pliers: to crimp wire splice connector at AC compressor power wire and under-dash for LED light connectors
26. Ten ¼” x 20 thread Grade 5 bolts, 7/16” Hex head
27. Ten ¼” lock washers, 20 ¼” flat washers
28. Ten ¼” x 20 thread Grade 5 nuts, 7/16”
29. A new (1994 L/1994 Cobra) Thermostat housing (water outlet)

Pictures of box, fan, controller and hardware bag.
 
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***NOTE*** There are three different ways to accomplish the installation of the Thermo-switch.

1. Install T-switch in the neck of the T-stat housing. I used the following T-stat housing (water outlet): Murray 84831 - Water Outlet | O'Reilly Auto Parts
You can also purchase a housing for a 1994 Ford Mustang Cobra: Murray 84831 - Water Outlet | O'Reilly Auto Parts
2. You can install the T-switch in the lower intake, just behind and below the Throttle Body. You will need to modify your OEM EGR spacer cooling system to install the T-switch in this manner. I passed on this method.
3. Ed (StruckBy) offers a kit, for installing the Thermo-switch in the lower radiator hose. You will need to perform an Oil Cooler Delete prior to using this location. I performed the Oil Cooler Delete previously but opted out of this method.

***CAUTION*** Ensure engine is cool prior to E-Fan installation.

Steps to removing OEM fan/shroud and thermo-switch.

1. Disconnect battery cables, alternator charging cable and amp power wire
2. Remove fan shroud bolts
3. Remove mechanical fan/fan clutch bolts, grasp fan/fan clutch with one hand while lifting upper radiator hose to clear removal of mechanical fan and shroud, remove fan/shroud as one assembly, set aside
4. Reinstall water pump pulley bolts and lock washer, add one additional 5/16” flat washer to each bolt prior to tightening bolts
5. Grab a few rags and situate around t-stat housing
6. Remove pipe plug from t-stat housing
7. Disconnect ECT sensor connector
8. Install provided E-Fan thermo-switch (see above NOTE)
9. Reconnect ECT sensor connector

Pictures of fan shroud/fan clutch, ECT sensor, thermo-switch
 
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Installation of 40 amp Max fuse and controller.

1. Mount 40 amp Max Fuse just aft (behind) the starter solenoid but forward of the pass side hood hinge. There are two small holes from the fender factory stampings to use as an attachment point, I used a supplied screw from the StruckBy hardware to attach the Max Fuse holder. Connect two ground wires to the Battery ground on inside of the Passenger side fender.

***CAUTION*** Ensure the hinge does not come in contact with any portion of the controller wiring harness.

2. Remove OEM bottle jack, jack bracket and lug-nut tire iron, mount controller box using four – one inch sheet metal screws and four – ½” long pieces of 5/16” fuel hose as anti-vibration devices for the E-Fan controller. Install controller in desired location at this time.
3. Run long Red power wire and Green & Black toggle switch wires to drivers side firewall, just left of and behind the brake power booster. Remove rubber plug from inside driver’s side cab at firewall and install grommet in firewall plug hole. Run the Red, Green & Black wires inside the cab.
4. Run single connector thermo-switch wire behind & above AC box, run wire over and under the pass side of upper intake; connect to the thermo-switch at this time.
5. Route the Blue AC wire to the Purple AC compressor power wire, connect wire splice using pliers.

Pictures of Max Fuse, controller, AC compressor power wire.
 
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E-Fan power wire installation.

1. You have two options for routing the red power wire, one under-dash and the second is under the hood at the Fuse & Relay box on the driver’s side. You will need to trim the inside of the fuse/relay box if using this option, for the red power wire.
2. Take the Red Jumper/Fuse holder supplied with the StruckBy hardware and run to the under-dash fuse box, the No. 11 fuse. I used this fuse position for the ease and neatness of the install. Use the supplied 5 amp fuse in the top jumper position and the No. 11 – 15 amp fuse in the bottom jumper position.

***NOTE*** Ensure you use a fuse position that is power on/off with the ignition switch.

3. Go back to the Max Fuse under the hood and connect it to the Positive (+) Battery cable (or to the Starter Solenoid per Ed’s instructions that I found posted on NLOC).
4. Mount Toggle Switch in the cab. I fabricated a bracket by cutting and bending a piece of 1” x 36” x 1/2” flat aluminum. I drilled a ½” hole to mount the toggle switch. I sprayed three coats of Gray Primer, two coats of Satin Clear-coat spray paint. I mounted the fabricated aluminum bracket under the dash using an existing dash screw. I placed an aircraft style switch cover over the toggle.
5. I painted a black plastic toggle switch bracket that I purchased from the parts store and mounted a ½” Green LED Light. I installed the bracket on an existing under dash screw to the left of the glove box.
6. I ran the (-) LED light wire to the Green toggle switch wire and the (+) LED light wire to the Red power wire just behind the under-dash fuse box.

Pictures of power wire, toggle switch wires, firewall hole, toggle switch bracket.
 
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Fabrication of Fan Brackets.

1. I purchased a 1-1/8” x 36” x 1/16” piece of angled aluminum. I cut them into four separate 5” long pieces.
2. I drilled two holes in the two bottom pieces and three holes in the two upper pieces. I then drilled matching holes in the fan shroud.
3. I test fit the fan and brackets under the hood and then removed both to further modify the brackets.
4. I rounded off the edges on the bottom pieces, cut additional material from the upper brackets, and rounded off the edges with a course file.
5. I applied Gray Primer spray paint to the four brackets.
6. Once the Primer was cured, I applied three medium coats of Black Satin paint to the brackets and let cure over night.
7. I installed the brackets to the E-Fan using Grade 5 hardware.
8. Next, I mounted the Fan; center the fan as much as possible and tighten bolts. I used the factory fan shroud attachment holes for the fabricated upper brackets.
9. Route the MK VIII connector plug from the controller to the fan and plug it in. Secure the wires to the fan with two zip-ties. Use the pre-existing holes on the fan.
10. Ensure all wires are attached properly. Reconnect the vehicle battery at this time.

MK VIII Fan operational check

1. Turn KEY On, flip the mounted in cab toggle switch.
2. Or, start the truck and turn on the AC.





Pictures of the brackets during fabrication and fitting process.
 
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Final thoughts...

Thanks to Jim for his input on this How-To-Article. I added a few notes and part numbers to further assist in this upgrade. I can/will post additional pictures if you contact me by PM.

Thank you,
James
 
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