Hi I recently build and installed a 408 stroker engine with about 400hp. Finally got it in the truck and got it up and running with the pimpxshift system. I'm wondering what kind of mods people would recommend to support the additional power, (Chassis/Steering, Safety, Brakes, Exhaust, Transmission...)
Lightning Build Supporting Mods?
- Thread starter jdgerz
- Start date
This would be the order I'd address things:
- Full exhaust.
- If you have any intention of drag racing it, something to stabilize the rear end, long bars or CalTracs.
- Valve body for the transmission.
- Torque converter to match the cam in the motor.
I ran a low 9 second truck on the stock brakes. If you're not going to do road course events, they'll be fine.
- Full exhaust.
- If you have any intention of drag racing it, something to stabilize the rear end, long bars or CalTracs.
- Valve body for the transmission.
- Torque converter to match the cam in the motor.
I ran a low 9 second truck on the stock brakes. If you're not going to do road course events, they'll be fine.
oilwell1415
Well-known member
400hp at the flywheel or tire? How are you going to use it? If it's the flywheel and your plans are 1/4 mile drag racing you may run out of motor on the big end and need to change the rear gear to 3.55 or 3.73. I'd replace the stock diff with a TruTrac and add a driveshaft loop. Relocate the battery to the bed.
Ok thanks, I'm planning on mostly street use, so brakes should be fine. Is there any specific exhaust system, rear stabilizer and valve body that you would recommend? True trac diff seems like a good idea was is difficult to install? Need to replace driveshaft since it has a dent and will add a driveshaft loop with that
To really maximize that 408, you're going to want good long tube headers and a custom exhaust. The only off-the-shelf option we have is from Bassani. I have had some variation of it on my trucks over the years, and still have it headers-to-tailpipe on my daily driver. It's an improvement over stock, but probably will not allow a 408 to realize its full potential.
On the street, the stock slapper bars are ok. They just can't damp the amount of axle wrap a sticky tire on a sticky track can create.
Paul (https://www.punishervalvebodies.com/) puts together a great valve body for whatever level of performance you want.
Changing the differential (not changing the gearset, I would personally keep the 4.10s, they're good to 120+ mph with 30" tires) requires effort, but it's not overly difficult. However, it may be one of those jobs that's best sent to a pro. The TrueTrac is a fantastic choice. I have a plain 'ol Eaton Posi in my more powerful truck, and it's held up absolutely great. The TrueTrac is much better.
On the street, the stock slapper bars are ok. They just can't damp the amount of axle wrap a sticky tire on a sticky track can create.
Paul (https://www.punishervalvebodies.com/) puts together a great valve body for whatever level of performance you want.
Changing the differential (not changing the gearset, I would personally keep the 4.10s, they're good to 120+ mph with 30" tires) requires effort, but it's not overly difficult. However, it may be one of those jobs that's best sent to a pro. The TrueTrac is a fantastic choice. I have a plain 'ol Eaton Posi in my more powerful truck, and it's held up absolutely great. The TrueTrac is much better.
oilwell1415
Well-known member
On the street I wouldn't mess with the gear ratio. A 400hp 408 isn't going to be a revving machine and is going to make huge torque down low, but if you're not fighting for every tenth it's not worth the trouble.
It's not hard to change the differential, but it's easy to do it wrong. I'm not sure how many Eatons I've installed over the years, but I've never had one that didn't go back in just like the stock one came out. That doesn't mean you don't need to check your backlash before and after just to be sure, but I would be surprised if it's not good to go with the same shims that it has now. That said, if you don't already have a press you should probably pay someone to do it.
I've got a TruTrac in both of my trucks. In the Lightning it's vastly better than the stock diff. When I'd hit the gas at 40-50 mph with the stock diff you could feel the rear end wallowing around trying to decide which side was going to do the work. With the TruTrac it's just 2 black stripes straight as an arrow with zero drama. In my driver the difference wasn't nearly as night and day, but after changing the clutches in the stocker 3 or 4 times I could have nearly paid for the TruTrac and it's still a better unit that needs no maintenance.
It's not hard to change the differential, but it's easy to do it wrong. I'm not sure how many Eatons I've installed over the years, but I've never had one that didn't go back in just like the stock one came out. That doesn't mean you don't need to check your backlash before and after just to be sure, but I would be surprised if it's not good to go with the same shims that it has now. That said, if you don't already have a press you should probably pay someone to do it.
I've got a TruTrac in both of my trucks. In the Lightning it's vastly better than the stock diff. When I'd hit the gas at 40-50 mph with the stock diff you could feel the rear end wallowing around trying to decide which side was going to do the work. With the TruTrac it's just 2 black stripes straight as an arrow with zero drama. In my driver the difference wasn't nearly as night and day, but after changing the clutches in the stocker 3 or 4 times I could have nearly paid for the TruTrac and it's still a better unit that needs no maintenance.