Lightning Struck
Active member
I just got done installing my LC-1 wideband, and LMA-3 aux box.. Boy is it a fun and powerful tuning tool when combined with an EEC-Tuner or Tweecer!
I've got it datalogging AFR, RPM, TPS, IAT, ECT, and Map(internal sensor).. There's a few things I'd like to note for people who might be potentially looking to do this.
A: Buy the stuff online from ebay! I saved a chunk of change doing this, with no issues. $169 for the sensor, and $219 for the Aux Box!
B: I ran all the sensor wires through the passenger side drain grommet. This is a great location for a couple different reasons. Behind the plug is a rather well shielded "box" that's a great location for the actual LC-1 controller box, as it's close to the passenger side exhaust(you have a finite amount of sensor length). I also had all the wiring for my electric fans running through there as well.
C: For tapping into the existing sensor wires, T-taps are your FRIEND!!
D: For grounding, I used the existing block ground lug up by the front passenger side corner for the sensor grounds, and used the ground bolt on the frame rail that also grounds the neg. battery cable for the ground for the heater circuit of the O2. You want to keep these seperate to minimize the chance of analog noise messing with your WB output.
E: Mounting locations for the Aux-Box will vary. I had a very convienent spot on the front of my center console/sub box that worked quite well, and allowed me to easily hide all the wiring.
F: For the calibration switch, I previously had my e-fan switch in a custom carbon fiber switch panel in the ash tray. I just remade the panel and mounted the LED and push-button there, it's clean and "hidable".
Now for my observations: I'm going to attempt to tone down the hysterisis of the stock O2's while in closed loop. I was surprises by how large the swings were while in closed loop, and how long it took for it to swing back to the other side of stoich. If I remember right there is a function for this in the EEC. I also need to lean out the open-loop alittle. When at temp, WOT was down around the low 12's.
What was surprising to me, is that a couple years ago I borrowed Sparkmans wide band, and the readings were quite a bit different. I think I can attribute this to sensor location, because at hte time I didn't want to completely pull the exhaust, so I mounted the bung between the stock O2 and the catback flange. This time around I mounted the bung between the ball-socket and the stock 02 on the passenger side collector pipe.
Oh, the other issue is that its a total PITA to find 2.5mm male to male cables to plug the LC-1 into the LMA-3. I ended up buying these online as well. I also have a LCD monitor that is plugged into one of the programmable outputs of the LC-1 to monitor the AFR while driving and not plugged into the laptop. This cost about 10 bucks, vs the 80 or so for a gauge that I didn't have room for!
Overall I'm extremely pleased with the install, and without really looking, you'd never be able to tell anythings different!
I've got it datalogging AFR, RPM, TPS, IAT, ECT, and Map(internal sensor).. There's a few things I'd like to note for people who might be potentially looking to do this.
A: Buy the stuff online from ebay! I saved a chunk of change doing this, with no issues. $169 for the sensor, and $219 for the Aux Box!
B: I ran all the sensor wires through the passenger side drain grommet. This is a great location for a couple different reasons. Behind the plug is a rather well shielded "box" that's a great location for the actual LC-1 controller box, as it's close to the passenger side exhaust(you have a finite amount of sensor length). I also had all the wiring for my electric fans running through there as well.
C: For tapping into the existing sensor wires, T-taps are your FRIEND!!
D: For grounding, I used the existing block ground lug up by the front passenger side corner for the sensor grounds, and used the ground bolt on the frame rail that also grounds the neg. battery cable for the ground for the heater circuit of the O2. You want to keep these seperate to minimize the chance of analog noise messing with your WB output.
E: Mounting locations for the Aux-Box will vary. I had a very convienent spot on the front of my center console/sub box that worked quite well, and allowed me to easily hide all the wiring.
F: For the calibration switch, I previously had my e-fan switch in a custom carbon fiber switch panel in the ash tray. I just remade the panel and mounted the LED and push-button there, it's clean and "hidable".
Now for my observations: I'm going to attempt to tone down the hysterisis of the stock O2's while in closed loop. I was surprises by how large the swings were while in closed loop, and how long it took for it to swing back to the other side of stoich. If I remember right there is a function for this in the EEC. I also need to lean out the open-loop alittle. When at temp, WOT was down around the low 12's.
What was surprising to me, is that a couple years ago I borrowed Sparkmans wide band, and the readings were quite a bit different. I think I can attribute this to sensor location, because at hte time I didn't want to completely pull the exhaust, so I mounted the bung between the stock O2 and the catback flange. This time around I mounted the bung between the ball-socket and the stock 02 on the passenger side collector pipe.
Oh, the other issue is that its a total PITA to find 2.5mm male to male cables to plug the LC-1 into the LMA-3. I ended up buying these online as well. I also have a LCD monitor that is plugged into one of the programmable outputs of the LC-1 to monitor the AFR while driving and not plugged into the laptop. This cost about 10 bucks, vs the 80 or so for a gauge that I didn't have room for!
Overall I'm extremely pleased with the install, and without really looking, you'd never be able to tell anythings different!