JLP traction bar install???
- Thread starter banks
- Start date
i have the file
ldtu:hey man i have a set myself and i wrote to JLP about it becuase i got them from ebay. they sent me the file and i saved it. i will look it up and send it to you. if you dont hear from me by tomorrow then ask JLP and it will take a few days for them to email you back. pm me and i can give you my email addy.
ldtu:hey man i have a set myself and i wrote to JLP about it becuase i got them from ebay. they sent me the file and i saved it. i will look it up and send it to you. if you dont hear from me by tomorrow then ask JLP and it will take a few days for them to email you back. pm me and i can give you my email addy.
SVT3139
GO BLUE!
SirNate3000
Red is the Fastest
What happen to the How To Article ?? i was looking for help with installing the traction bars. there is no article just more questions
krzemienr
NOS Doesn't Make You Cool
Tools Required:
-floor jack
-jack stands (4)
-torque wrench
-1/2 drive socket
-assorted sockets/extensions
-assorted combination
-7/8ths deep socket
-drill and bits
-scribe
-center punch
-ball peen hammer
*To preserve proper pinion angle, only do one side at a time.
Install:
1. Park truck on lever surface, jack up, place stand on the rear axle between diff. and shock mounts, remove spare tire.
2. Remove 4 bolts from from passenger side u-bolts holding the leaf to the axle. Remove u-bolts and bracket.
3. Place upper mounting bracket (flat piece with ends angled up) on the leaf with the "lips" facing up.
4. Place the lower mounting brackets onto the u-bolts so the bar mounting point is closest to the axle and the lip of the bracket is at the rear of the vehicle.
5. Install the 7/8ths nuts to the lower bracket, and tighten. Do not tighten all the way yet!
6. Insert JLP traction bar into the axle point, but do not tighten yet.
7. Place the front mounting bracket onto the front of the traction bar, but do not fully tighten anything.
8. Lift up the bracket to the frame, hold, and use the scribe to mark point where you will drill.
9. Lower the traction bar back down and use the ball peen hammer to center punch the frame to make drilling easier.
10. Drill all 4 holes, make sure you do not drill through any wires, lines, or anything else that you might come in contact with.
11. Put the just the bracket back up and insert the 4 9/16th bolts. Tighten to 40 ft/lbs.
12. Insert the traction bar back into the front frame and, use the 50 ft/lbs to tighten.
13. Verify proper alignment between traction bar and the axle bracket.
14. Tighten the bracket INCREMENTALLY to 75 ft/lbs beginning with the 2 nuts nearest the diff.
15. Insert the traction bar into place and tighten with 50 ft/lbs.
16. The the same on opposite side.
17. Check all bolts after 25-35 miles, then again 75-100.
Let me know if you have any questions, this should take between 1.5-3 hours depending on how good you are with tools.
-floor jack
-jack stands (4)
-torque wrench
-1/2 drive socket
-assorted sockets/extensions
-assorted combination
-7/8ths deep socket
-drill and bits
-scribe
-center punch
-ball peen hammer
*To preserve proper pinion angle, only do one side at a time.
Install:
1. Park truck on lever surface, jack up, place stand on the rear axle between diff. and shock mounts, remove spare tire.
2. Remove 4 bolts from from passenger side u-bolts holding the leaf to the axle. Remove u-bolts and bracket.
3. Place upper mounting bracket (flat piece with ends angled up) on the leaf with the "lips" facing up.
4. Place the lower mounting brackets onto the u-bolts so the bar mounting point is closest to the axle and the lip of the bracket is at the rear of the vehicle.
5. Install the 7/8ths nuts to the lower bracket, and tighten. Do not tighten all the way yet!
6. Insert JLP traction bar into the axle point, but do not tighten yet.
7. Place the front mounting bracket onto the front of the traction bar, but do not fully tighten anything.
8. Lift up the bracket to the frame, hold, and use the scribe to mark point where you will drill.
9. Lower the traction bar back down and use the ball peen hammer to center punch the frame to make drilling easier.
10. Drill all 4 holes, make sure you do not drill through any wires, lines, or anything else that you might come in contact with.
11. Put the just the bracket back up and insert the 4 9/16th bolts. Tighten to 40 ft/lbs.
12. Insert the traction bar back into the front frame and, use the 50 ft/lbs to tighten.
13. Verify proper alignment between traction bar and the axle bracket.
14. Tighten the bracket INCREMENTALLY to 75 ft/lbs beginning with the 2 nuts nearest the diff.
15. Insert the traction bar into place and tighten with 50 ft/lbs.
16. The the same on opposite side.
17. Check all bolts after 25-35 miles, then again 75-100.
Let me know if you have any questions, this should take between 1.5-3 hours depending on how good you are with tools.
Chitown Willie
Active member
Buy a right angle drill to drill the frame holes.
Start the holes with a centerdrill (#5 or #6 should be good) so you don't wander all over with the big drill.
Pay close attention to the rear brackets when tightening. They may start to bend before you hit the full specified torque.
Make sure you have some tall jackstands so you can support the truck on the frame.
Start the holes with a centerdrill (#5 or #6 should be good) so you don't wander all over with the big drill.
Pay close attention to the rear brackets when tightening. They may start to bend before you hit the full specified torque.
Make sure you have some tall jackstands so you can support the truck on the frame.
krzemienr
NOS Doesn't Make You Cool
I did mine with a regular drill and it worked out fine, yes start with smaller bits and work your way forward, you can also spray wd40 on the bit as you're drilling to avoid overheating the bit and can cause to break/weaken, you can also place a piece of wood between the exhaust and the frame (passenger side) and drill from the center of the truck out, this way when you go through the frame, you'll hit the wood and not slip into the exhaust....
krzemienr
NOS Doesn't Make You Cool
put the stands right on the rear end (axle) between the shock mounts and the differential. If you put them on the frame and jack up your truck... the springs will pop out at you and 1. you can get really hurt. 2. you're not gonna be able to put the adapters 3. you might damage existing suspension.
my98stang46
500/600 Club
so its a pretty striaght forward install? sounds pretty simple
Bronco Bill
New member
jlp traction bars
use no-seize on the threads of the u-bolts , as wells as the traction bar bolts on
both ends. two years after installing my t-bars tried to remove them, only to find out that all the nuts had seized to the pig metal u-bolts. bought 4 new u bolts (custom made by my local leaf spring shop) for 26 dollars. jlp wanted 69 bucks plus shipping, to replace their defective bolts. i was able to salvage the bolts to the t-bars with a couple hours of finesse'. I also never received instructions for my bars, their web site, as well as customer care didn't help me.
Only by coming here, did my questions get answered when i first installed them.
BB
use no-seize on the threads of the u-bolts , as wells as the traction bar bolts on
both ends. two years after installing my t-bars tried to remove them, only to find out that all the nuts had seized to the pig metal u-bolts. bought 4 new u bolts (custom made by my local leaf spring shop) for 26 dollars. jlp wanted 69 bucks plus shipping, to replace their defective bolts. i was able to salvage the bolts to the t-bars with a couple hours of finesse'. I also never received instructions for my bars, their web site, as well as customer care didn't help me.
Only by coming here, did my questions get answered when i first installed them.
BB