Gen1 Restoration Sub-Forum?

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bumperquip

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If I were to ask BigD or some of the other moderators to create a Gen1 Restoration Sub-Forum where the topics would be limited to those associated with the factory restoration of our trucks and/or their parts, would anyone but me be interested and use such a sub-forum?

Is this a stupid idea?
 
I'd be interested, I'm trying to get my truck "show ready" for the summer also! I need to paint my inner fenders, hood underside, clean my carpets real good, and get those damn hard water spots off of the windows.
 
I don't think its stupid. Sounds good to me. I belive it would help
The L owners out there who want to keep the trucks original or restore them them back to
The original condition. I like the idea.


Matt
 
I don't think its a bad idea, however I don't think it will get a lot of traffic. A lot of people, myself included, don't really pay attention to the subforums we already have. I don't avoid them necessarily, but just autmoatically scroll past them without really thinking about it. :?
 
madramper said:
I don't think its a bad idea, however I don't think it will get a lot of traffic. A lot of people, myself included, don't really pay attention to the subforums we already have. I don't avoid them necessarily, but just automatically scroll past them without really thinking about it. :?
Click to expand...

I do the same thing....

Chuck
 
Why not a "project" sub forum where pics and progress must be included? I'm sure we could get some visits there. With custom work, restorations, and just fun stuff?
 
I think a restoration forum would be a good idea it would, also help in finding those OEM / NOS parts that seem to be getting harder to find.
 
ninty4lite said:
How do you get rid of those water spots?
Click to expand...


I haven't figured out yet, or they would be gone:headscratch:

The back window will just get replaced with a non-slider, I think the door windows might have to come out, and I'll go to town on them with a buffer and some compound??


I need :help::no:
 
Josh and Ninety,

Try these techniques, in order, on the water spots. If one works don't move on in the list. If it doesn't move on.

1. Try a 1:1 mix of white vinegar and water. It's best to apply the mix to a cloth or sponge and then apply it to the glass... it takes care of any wax on any paint it might touch and may discolor paint depending on the paint's condition. A microfiber cloth works best and even better is one of those Mr. Clean magic eraser things. Rinse the glass and surrounding areas completely and dry the glass immediately with a microfiber towel or cloth.

2. Try white vinegar with no dilution. It's best to apply the mix to a cloth or sponge and then apply it to the glass... it takes care of all wax on any paint it might touch and will likely discolor paint depending on the paint's condition. A microfiber cloth works best and even better is one of those Mr. Clean magic eraser things. Rinse the glass and surrounding areas completely and dry it immediately with a microfiber towel or cloth.

3. Go to an appliance store or somewhere that sells appliances and get some glass cooktop cleaner... it's a white lotion looking stuff with micro-abrasives. Go get one of those dishwashing sponges with the blue scotchbrite on one side. Apply to cleaner to the scotchbrite side and gently scrub the glass... kinda like applying wax. Then you can wipe or rinse it off the glass. Be careful about getting the cleaner on your black weather seals. It's alot like getting wax on the rubber. As an alternative, Brasso and/or Mother's Aluminum Polish should work too.

4. If those don't work, let me know, I've got another trick but you'll need to be a bit more careful and precise as it includes the use of diluted muriatic acid.
 
Very good tips bumperquip! I can sure use this on some of my windows on the mark vii.:eek:ldtu: I believe that a restoration forum would be great. Maybe we could get a compilation of bone stock pristine truck pictures up also to go with this for reference...(if anything ever became of it):grin1:
 
bumperquip said:
Josh and Ninety,

Try these techniques, in order, on the water spots. If one works don't move on in the list. If it doesn't move on.

1. Try a 1:1 mix of white vinegar and water. It's best to apply the mix to a cloth or sponge and then apply it to the glass... it takes care of any wax on any paint it might touch and may discolor paint depending on the paint's condition. A microfiber cloth works best and even better is one of those Mr. Clean magic eraser things. Rinse the glass and surrounding areas completely and dry the glass immediately with a microfiber towel or cloth.

2. Try white vinegar with no dilution. It's best to apply the mix to a cloth or sponge and then apply it to the glass... it takes care of all wax on any paint it might touch and will likely discolor paint depending on the paint's condition. A microfiber cloth works best and even better is one of those Mr. Clean magic eraser things. Rinse the glass and surrounding areas completely and dry it immediately with a microfiber towel or cloth.

3. Go to an appliance store or somewhere that sells appliances and get some glass cooktop cleaner... it's a white lotion looking stuff with micro-abrasives. Go get one of those dishwashing sponges with the blue scotchbrite on one side. Apply to cleaner to the scotchbrite side and gently scrub the glass... kinda like applying wax. Then you can wipe or rinse it off the glass. Be careful about getting the cleaner on your black weather seals. It's alot like getting wax on the rubber. As an alternative, Brasso and/or Mother's Aluminum Polish should work too.

4. If those don't work, let me know, I've got another trick but you'll need to be a bit more careful and precise as it includes the use of diluted muriatic acid.
Click to expand...


Thanks man, I will try those!! I have already tried rubbing compound, diluted vinegar, straight vinegar and 000 steel wool to no avail! I will try the vinegar and magic eraser (didn't think of that, those work awesome in the house) and the stove top cleaner, someone also suggested Bonami? It might be best to just pull the side windows out for this?? My paint it in real good shape, or maybe I could mask it off with some plastic and tape.
 
Josh,

Don't really see any reason that you'd need to remove glass pieces to take care of your spots... you just need to find the right product. If the glass is truly etched beyond restoration then replacement would likely be the cheaper alternative.

Here's some marketing information for two products I've used in the past and have had very good luck with... might be worth a try.

Moderators: I'm not selling this stuff nor do I represent these companies or their distrubutors in any way. I'm just passing on some information to a fellow club member regarding products I've used that I have found work well in my resto projects.
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Glass can take a polish just like paint. A quality glass polish like DP High Performance Glass Restorer will remove water spots and cloudiness to restore perfect clarity to your windows. You can apply it by hand or with a polisher, but set your machine on a low speed (1000-1200 RPM on a rotary or 5-6 OPM on a dual action) and use a polishing pad. Do not apply pressure; the pad will do the work for you. When the polish starts to dry, stop polishing and buff the residue away with a microfiber towel.

Another option is Diamondite Spray Clay. This is a clay foam that removes embedded contaminants from glass, as well as mineral deposits, using an included sponge. Spray Clay is part of the Diamondite Glass Cleaning System, which also includes Diamondite Glass Cleaner and Diamondite Shield. Spray Clay will not remove etching, but it will correct spots that are still on the surface. Diamondite Shield will keep your glass clean and provide some protection against future water spots. It seals the glass and causes water to bead. Think of it as a wax for your glass. It improves the performance of wipers and provides a huge improvement in visibility when it rains.
 
This is a great addition to the Gen 1 section. Now we just need to get a ton of bone stock ultra low mileage pics of all three years covering every square inch in hi-res. detail. Also pics of tear downs & reassembly will help keep these trucks around for a long time. Also a complete list of part numbers, what parts are L specific vs. reg. F-150 parts, suppliers of NOS parts & aftermarket parts that look OEM. And finally step-by-step how to's.
 
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