fan kit....gauging the interest

StruckBy

StruckBy

FAST Eddie ;)
Hello everyone,
I think I have developed a fan kit/wiring harness that would aleviate most of the problems encountered during the installation/operation of the electric fans most of us use. The majority of the problems seem to be melted fuse holders, damage to the trucks original wiring or electrical components low charing/dead battery conditions and difficulty in locating heavy duty components.

The main kit I have developed will accommodate the majority of the single fans we use,(of course dual fans can be accommodated as well) Flex-a-lite, Spal, Lincoln Mark VIII.

The kit is constructed using only 4 gauge wire for the wires that carry the heavy current loads of the fan. It also includes a large plastic disconnect(to faciliate removing the fan or radiator) heavy duty and compact professional looking components and of course soldered and sealed connections.

The main features of the kit includes a manual over-ride sw regardless of key position(to turn them on at the track etc..) automatic activation w/ AC and a 200* on /180* off T-stat.

The only bummer is the parts alone are $140. So depending on how one values the ease of install and overall benefits of the kit will determine its worth. The only other alternatives are the Flex-a-lite and Painless kits which are more of a universal kit. This kit would be specific to our trucks with proper lengths etc..

So thats the info. Any thoughts ideas,questions or suggestions appreciated.

Edward
 
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and the installer would only have to do 5 things:
1. connect the ground
2. connect the positive
3. screw in the T-stat(easy)
4. two in-cab connections
5. connect the fans of his/her choice
 
The other day my dad told me I need to buy a kit and not piece it together. Then I told him there wasnt a kit and someone needs to do it. If it wasn't for Nathan (Nater) I would have never been able to put the fans in. It was one of the first times I have been around electrical work.

There are many people out there that want to put E-fans on but do not know how to. I think this is a good idea. :bigtu:

BTW, can you send me some info on your battery cables? Thanks.
 
no4njnk..thanks for the reply. Yeah thats kind of what I was thinking...if it were specific to the truck and easy to install then maybe people would think it is worth it.

johnny408...yes the 5 things would be the same except you would have two grounds and two positives to connect. Of course there would be about $35 in additional parts for a dual fan configuration. There is labor involved too so that would have to be factored in for all kits.

Edward
 
The probe is a non-adjustable 200*on 180* off screw in style.The temp probe will fit in one of two locations. It will fit in the back of the lower manifold on the left or right. There is a factory provided hole and it screws right in. Or via an adaptor(from your local hardware store) it can screw into the steel connector for the heater hose on the front of the lower manifold. Either way is a pretty clean install.
Edward
 
Your system sounds like it is pretty heavy duty and 4 gauge is pretty big power cable. I've had my fan on for about 5 months and have about $140 total in it with an adjustable t-stat. Haven't had any trouble so far but who knows, it probably won't last as long as your setup.:?
 
The port in the back of the manifold. Do you have to remove the upper to access it?
 
yeah good point Ltngdrvr. The wiring/control of the fan is something alot of people may not realize when they get a fan. So I made the kit adaptable to ANY fan,single or dual.

TK2.......you donot have to remove the upper if you are using the port on the driver side. For the pass side you will just have to slide it over.

Edward
 
oh and one other thing. The main components I am using have "commmon configurations" in reference to the fuses and relays. While the one I have included in the kits are high quality they are also easy to find in an emergency situation. So if for example the main relay burns out and you need to run into AutoZone or NAPA etc... you will be able to find it b/c it uses a common contact configuration and style. The fuses are MAXI style and are also readily available. The rest of the components really donot wear out or burn out.

Edward
 
For anyone that might not know Ed or his prowess in wiring. Having seen his work in person I can tell you it's all top notch and will be worth the cost regardless of price.
 
StruckBy said:
The probe is a non-adjustable 200*on 180* off screw in style.The temp probe will fit in one of two locations. It will fit in the back of the lower manifold on the left or right. There is a factory provided hole and it screws right in. Or via an adaptor(from your local hardware store) it can screw into the steel connector for the heater hose on the front of the lower manifold. Either way is a pretty clean install.
Edward
Click to expand...


Ed if you put the sensor in the back of the intake it will read about 20* cooler the the actual engine temp because there won't be enough coolant flow across the sensor. It will have to be mounted up front.
 
I just run the FRPP thermostat housing that has a 3/8" NPT port and run an Electric Fan Engineering temp switch... EFE switchs have tighter on/off points than Painless or other switchs I've found.. Mines on at 195 off at 185 I believe.. With a 180 Tstat it's about perfect..
 
Lightning Struck said:
I just run the FRPP thermostat housing that has a 3/8" NPT port and run an Electric Fan Engineering temp switch... EFE switchs have tighter on/off points than Painless or other switchs I've found.. Mines on at 195 off at 185 I believe.. With a 180 Tstat it's about perfect..
Click to expand...
Where can you get the FRPP housing? Does the port come already tapped and sealed with a plug when not in use? Is it this one?
fms-m8592b302_m.jpg
 
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Struckby,

I recently installed a Flexalite 210 dual fan setup on my 94, and was very pleased with it. Are there any concerns I should be aware of? I replaced the soft rubber fuse holder with the replacement hard plastic one. I know from others here on NLOC that a C/B is recommended, but I haven't seen any problems so far. Let me know what your opinion is.

Thanks
Eric Martin
NLOC #1084
Red 1994 #1339 of 4007
 
you can get a thermostat housing from advanced auto that has the plug in it for a temp sender. its steel and is abotu 10 bucks
 
Thanks for the compliments Chris,I try really hard to keep it all neat and professional looking. Jerry thats a good point on the rear mount. It seems alot of people are switching to that other T-stat housing with the port built-in. I will do that as well if and when my upper hose needs to be changed. But so far with my T-stat mounted in the rear based on my Autometer gauge it is turning on and off when it is supposed to. I guess it may vary with different cooling system pumps,T-stats and radiators.

Eric yeah I noticed alot of people like to use the CB and thats fine as long as you donot use the kind that automatically resets. And of course you want to make sure the CB you are using will not exceed the current capability of the wire you are trying to protect. So if for example you are only using 12 gauge wire for other than a short run you would not want to use a 50A breaker. In an overload situation the insulation would melt and then the breaker may trip.
Edward
 
Ed quick question. What gauge wire usually comes with the harness for a 30 amp relay?
thanks- Todd
 
Todd,
14 gauge wire is typically what comes with most 30 amp relays for terminals 87,87a, and 30. 85 and 86 are usually 18 gauge as they just signal the relay and donot carry the load.


Edward
 
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