If door panel squeaks are drowning out Jimmy Buffett on the stereo and sending you into road rage, try a little 2-hr project.
You will need a can of silicone spray, available at any auto parts store or hardware store, and
2 x 9-ft rolls of 3M squeak tape (1 per door), available at some auto supply stores or online:
12 new door panel fasteners (6 per door), Ford p/n N801925-S, available at most auto parts stores or online:
If you're missing any of the 8 door panel screws, you can get them (for a while anyway) from "offrdmania" in Gen1 parts-for-sale: Gen 1 Interior Screws and clips - NLOC Classified Section
1. With a pencil or a thin non-permanent marker, trace the outline of the door panel on the metal door frame where the two meet - this will help guide placement of the squeak tape.
2. Remove the door panel - if you haven't done this before, first unscrew and remove the power window/lock module and unscrew the wiring block from the back of the button panel and slip the wiring block back down into the hole. Then unscrew the door panel - 1 screw in the top/front corner near the A-pillar, 1 screw in the armrest, and 5 screws along the bottom of the panel. Pull the sides and bottom out a few inches - just far enough to release the door panel fasteners, then pull up on the door handle and lift the panel up and out to clear the window channel, door lock button, and door handle, and disconnect the courtesy lamp socket from the inside of the door panel.
3. Spray some silicone on a rag and clean the door frame without erasing your markings. Then clean the door panel - especially the edges - and replace the 6 old door panel fasteners with new ones.
4. Apply squeak tape to:
- top of door frame along window channel
- door frame inside of pencil marks with special attention to the top/forward corner near the A-pillar and covering any visible rub marks in the paint
- the squeak tape is thick and doesn't curve well, so you'll have to cut small pieces and trim the corners to make it around any curved edges
- put a small piece on each of the 6 screw holes (1 in upper/front corner and 5 along bottom), and one piece under the bolt and washer for the outside mirror (under the plastic moisture barrier near the speaker)
5. Reinstall the door panel with new fasteners. Don't over-tighten the screws - just snug them down without putting your weight into it. Over-tightening risks cracking the plastic screw posts.
Finally, replace your door latch bushings (see 94lightningrod's thread http://www.nloc.net/vbforum/gen-1-lightnings/214769-striker-bolt-bushing-kit.html), then go for a ride and enjoy listening to your stereo, your engine, your exhaust... anything but your door rattle!
Other things you might want to check/fix/replace while you're in there:
- courtesy light bulb (#168)
- door speaker (6-1/2 inch)
- window dew-wipes aka weather strips aka anti-rattle strips (from LMC Truck)
- window glass and hardware, regulator, motor
- power mirror (see http://www.nloc.net/vbforum/how-articles/208460-gen-1-exterior-mirror-install.html#post2001307)
You will need a can of silicone spray, available at any auto parts store or hardware store, and
2 x 9-ft rolls of 3M squeak tape (1 per door), available at some auto supply stores or online:
12 new door panel fasteners (6 per door), Ford p/n N801925-S, available at most auto parts stores or online:
If you're missing any of the 8 door panel screws, you can get them (for a while anyway) from "offrdmania" in Gen1 parts-for-sale: Gen 1 Interior Screws and clips - NLOC Classified Section
1. With a pencil or a thin non-permanent marker, trace the outline of the door panel on the metal door frame where the two meet - this will help guide placement of the squeak tape.
2. Remove the door panel - if you haven't done this before, first unscrew and remove the power window/lock module and unscrew the wiring block from the back of the button panel and slip the wiring block back down into the hole. Then unscrew the door panel - 1 screw in the top/front corner near the A-pillar, 1 screw in the armrest, and 5 screws along the bottom of the panel. Pull the sides and bottom out a few inches - just far enough to release the door panel fasteners, then pull up on the door handle and lift the panel up and out to clear the window channel, door lock button, and door handle, and disconnect the courtesy lamp socket from the inside of the door panel.
3. Spray some silicone on a rag and clean the door frame without erasing your markings. Then clean the door panel - especially the edges - and replace the 6 old door panel fasteners with new ones.
4. Apply squeak tape to:
- top of door frame along window channel
- door frame inside of pencil marks with special attention to the top/forward corner near the A-pillar and covering any visible rub marks in the paint
- the squeak tape is thick and doesn't curve well, so you'll have to cut small pieces and trim the corners to make it around any curved edges
- put a small piece on each of the 6 screw holes (1 in upper/front corner and 5 along bottom), and one piece under the bolt and washer for the outside mirror (under the plastic moisture barrier near the speaker)
5. Reinstall the door panel with new fasteners. Don't over-tighten the screws - just snug them down without putting your weight into it. Over-tightening risks cracking the plastic screw posts.
Finally, replace your door latch bushings (see 94lightningrod's thread http://www.nloc.net/vbforum/gen-1-lightnings/214769-striker-bolt-bushing-kit.html), then go for a ride and enjoy listening to your stereo, your engine, your exhaust... anything but your door rattle!
Other things you might want to check/fix/replace while you're in there:
- courtesy light bulb (#168)
- door speaker (6-1/2 inch)
- window dew-wipes aka weather strips aka anti-rattle strips (from LMC Truck)
- window glass and hardware, regulator, motor
- power mirror (see http://www.nloc.net/vbforum/how-articles/208460-gen-1-exterior-mirror-install.html#post2001307)
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