Well I thought it would be hard to get the old headers, and easy to put the new one on.
I was wrong. The old ones I got off in about 1 1/2 hours ( it would have of taken an hour but I had to spray WD40 on the collecter bolts.
Frist lesson learned and was told by Rich ( SVT1116 ) is to take the collector off first. Reason being is because the headers hold the Y pipe in place. From there it is pretty easy, just take the rest of the bolts off.
On the installation, Don't get frustrated ( as I did a couple of times ). Some of the bolts are hard to put in. You can only get a torque wrench on about 3 of the bolts, (that is me ). You have to use a open ended wrench on the rest of them. The one on the Passages side in the bach was a pain in the A** but can be done. TAKE YOUR TIME. The dipstike is another big issue that I did not figure out, so I just cut off the part that bolts to the heads and will get it welded back on later. As for the air tube when I went to put it back on it kinked it self so I had to cut the hose to make it fit.
As for Power it is hard to notice, but it can be found. One of the first things that you will notice is the noise in the cab. Just a little more. I am happy with the way they look and it just makes the engine bay look that much better also. Everyone is right they do bolt right up to the existing holes with no problem ( its just hard to get some of the bolts in because of the tubing ) All in all I would recommend them to any body.
Rich told me that his bolts rust short after and he put ARP's Stainless in. I am going to do the same if it happens.
I did get a couple of cuts on my hands not to bad though
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Justin DiPalma
NLOC # 555
Black 94 #437
14.762 @ 90.71 MPH
14* Timing ASP Pulleys
[This message has been edited by 94SVT437 (edited 12-26-2000).]
[This message has been edited by 94SVT437 (edited 12-26-2000).]
