96 f-150

BlackFlareSide

BlackFlareSide

Member
My daughter, 14 year old, got bit by the OBS truck bug, maybe from watching and helping me work on mine. She’s been looking at used trucks for about a year now and we finally picked one up the other day. It’s a 96 2wd with a rebuilt 5.0 and rebuilt E4od.
8f07894c97ffc3e000dc24e2615a9135.jpg


The guy that had it decided carbureted was better/cheaper and removed all of the EFI. He left the computer in it to run the transmission, which it did horribly. I called US Shift and got a controller headed this way.

It’s been a while since I’ve driven a stock-ish 302. This one has gt40 heads and a 498 lift cam designed for 1500-5500 rpm range and intake to match that. 3.55 rear gears and 33” tires with 6” lift. Yes it’s 2wd. Acceleration seems pretty week to me. I know absolutely nothing about tuning a carb. It has a 650cfm carb. Base timing is 10° and max timing is 38°, mechanical advance with vacuum reference that is not hooked up, I’ve read that it is only to help idle but I don’t really know.

First thing I wanted to do was put the EFI back on it but with it being a 96 it might be difficult and expensive to find all of the parts/ wiring etc. I don’t think I have room in my head to research all the differences. Maybe someone can enlighten me. I remember [mention]droppedf100 [/mention] removed ALL of the wiring and changing it to a 95. I believe door and dash wiring has to be removed also, if IRC.

So we are looking at using the Sniper EFI set up with the distributor and electronic timing control. Seems like we can put this set up in for less than 2k and get a little $ back from selling the new carb and spark system that’s in it and send back the $220 TPS for the carb setup. It does require 58 psi of fuel pressure and has a built in FPR. Does anyone know if the stock pump is capable of that?

Any other input is welcome also. What would you do with it? What say you?

a401a831139255e7b19d09056ed0624b.jpg



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Vacuum advance is relevant any time you're not at full throttle.

I most certainly would change to efi, personally, especially with my daughter driving it. It's so much more reliable in a wide variety of conditions.

The Sniper will be better than the 93 to 95 EFI was.


Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
 
FMOS Racing said:
Vacuum advance is relevant any time you're not at full throttle.

I most certainly would change to efi, personally, especially with my daughter driving it. It's so much more reliable in a wide variety of conditions.

The Sniper will be better than the 93 to 95 EFI was.


Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice Jeff!
It’s seems like such a cool system and has really good reviews for the most part. It’s very simple to set up through the touch screen interface and let it auto tune, but you can hook a laptop to it and tweak it as much as you want with the full software. I’m kind of excited to try it out.

Do you know if the stock fuel pumps will run at 58psi?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I'm in the process of installing a Sniper on my wife's 73 Camaro right now. I haven't had any issues with the Sniper itself, but the car isn't cooperating at all. For that truck I would definitely recommend doing that over the carb or going back to stock. The Sniper isn't perfect, but it's better than messing with carbs. I wouldn't bother with the Sniper timing control, at least not at first. The stock fuel pumps will easily deliver the 58 psi you need. That's stock fuel pressure for the 4.9.

The big benefit of the vacuum advance is that it adds timing during part throttle cruise to help mileage and response. You definitely want to keep that. It should connect to a ported vacuum source.

It sounds like the combination is way off on that truck. A cam with .498 lift probably has around 275-280 degrees of duration. I'd yank that out and put something more truck friendly in. The 3.55 gears aren't helping either. Those trucks aren't speedy with stock tires. Adding 5-6" of tire height and the weight to go with it isn't helping. Even ignoring the added rotating weight, that's like driving around with 2.73 gears. A set of 4.88 gears would make a world of difference.
 
After posting that I thought of one thing that is dumb about the Sniper. The throttle arm sits about an inch farther outboard than it does on a carb. That means the linkage doesn't fit right. It's really not a huge deal, but it's something you shouldn't have to mess with. The kit also doesn't come with very many options for fuel line adapters. I think there are 4 in the box and none of them were of any use. I had to order a 45 degree adapter for the pressure line and a 90 degree adapter for the return. I also had to order a new thermostat housing so the CTS would fit, but that's more of a car issue than a Sniper issue. It also didn't include the fuel pump block off plate that it said was included, but that's not a concern to you. It doesn't make much sense to include it anyway since they don't know what engine it's going on.
 
oilwell1415 said:
After posting that I thought of one thing that is dumb about the Sniper. The throttle arm sits about an inch farther outboard than it does on a carb. That means the linkage doesn't fit right. It's really not a huge deal, but it's something you shouldn't have to mess with. The kit also doesn't come with very many options for fuel line adapters. I think there are 4 in the box and none of them were of any use. I had to order a 45 degree adapter for the pressure line and a 90 degree adapter for the return. I also had to order a new thermostat housing so the CTS would fit, but that's more of a car issue than a Sniper issue. It also didn't include the fuel pump block off plate that it said was included, but that's not a concern to you. It doesn't make much sense to include it anyway since they don't know what engine it's going on.
Click to expand...

I’m curious why you said not to mess with sniper timing control. I thought it would be much better than the mechanical/vacuum advance that it is using now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
BlackFlareSide said:
I’m curious why you said not to mess with sniper timing control. I thought it would be much better than the mechanical/vacuum advance that it is using now.
Click to expand...

Initially I wouldn't do it because it's one more variable to chase while you're getting things setup. If it's working now and it doesn't run right after the Sniper install, you only have to worry about troubleshooting fuel issues and not also timing issues. After you've got it set up and running I question whether or not it's worth the effort to make it work. The timing curves that come in the Sniper are very abrupt and can cause some issues with the fuel mapping and driveability. This can be smoothed with the laptop, but you'll still be stuck with a curve that is less than optimum. If it was port injected and supported a knock sensor I think there would be more there to gain, but with the mixture variations from cylinder to cylinder and no knock sensor for protection I think you'll spend a lot of time tinkering in pursuit of very minimal gains over a properly set up mechanical and vacuum advance system.
 
Too much carb for it.
My 5.0 85GT with HCI and Long tubes ran best when I had my Demon resized from 650 to 575cfm (sent it to demon).

A 5.0 does not need that much cfm stk 4bbl in the day on um was like 425cfm.

Bigger is not better with a carb always.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
So we decided to buy the Holley Sniper EFI, US Shift Quick 2 controller, and the Holley EFI Hyperspark distributor, and coil.

Taking Oilwells advice we are installing and testing it in 3 different steps.

First we installed the Sniper. It was a pretty easy installation. Input the data that it asked for. Verified that the stock fuel pump was giving it 55-60 psi, and bumped the ignition it immediately started and ran at high idle for cold start and settled in to a nice idle when warmed up. Next took it for a drive to let it learn a bit.

Side note I also hooked up the vacuum to the timing advance.

Keep in mind that the transmission is still shifting way to early and won’t down shift because it has no controller yet, but the truck runs 100% better already! No off idle stumbling, no rough idle cold start pat the gas and talk sweet to it, much more power and instant throttle response. Ran it for about 15 minutes then put it back in the shop to. Install transmission controller. Very happy so far and I expect that it will only get better as it self learns and tunes.
I was really impressed with the base tune.

I will update after the quick shift is installed.

316e2b7a832fd3bb854ba88e5e83745d.jpg

53f2f2d380043f0579fa6c3532193793.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I need a little help.
I got the Quick 2 Transmission controller put in. The ford PCM/ECU is still in the truck to run various functions. Now that the PCM does not get a signal that the truck is in neutral or park it will not engage the starter. Does anyone know a fix for this?
 
FMOS Racing said:
I'm pretty sure that's separate from the ecu.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

In the PCM?

When the transmission wiring was still hooked up to the ECU it had a no start issue that was related to the transmission not registered in park or neutral.
When I use a test light it does not send a + voltage to the S post on the start relay.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
BlackFlareSide said:
First we installed the Sniper. It was a pretty easy installation. Input the data that it asked for. Verified that the stock fuel pump was giving it 55-60 psi, and bumped the ignition it immediately started and ran at high idle for cold start and settled in to a nice idle when warmed up. Next took it for a drive to let it learn a bit.
Click to expand...

You are making me feel bad about my install. I still don't have a running car. The combination of mission creep (aka "as long as I'm in there I might as well....") and working on a 50 year old car has turned my install into a nightmare. I'm getting there, but things are getting a little ridiculous. It doesn't help that I can only find about one 3-4 hour block of time per week to work on it, but I still thought this would go much more quickly. Famous last words.
 
BlackFlareSide said:
In the PCM?

When the transmission wiring was still hooked up to the ECU it had a no start issue that was related to the transmission not registered in park or neutral.
When I use a test light it does not send a + voltage to the S post on the start relay.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Hey Gary, I am confused. So the truck had a no start issue *before* the Quick 2 was installed? If so I would check the orientation of the neutral safety switch. Also the Quick 2 only needs like 2 wires of the original harness to work. The others can be left in place *including the one that completes the circuit to the solenoid.
 
Raymond_B said:
Hey Gary, I am confused. So the truck had a no start issue *before* the Quick 2 was installed? If so I would check the orientation of the neutral safety switch. Also the Quick 2 only needs like 2 wires of the original harness to work. The others can be left in place *including the one that completes the circuit to the solenoid.
Click to expand...

At one point it had a no start issue and it turned out to be that it wasn’t completely in park.
I only stated that to point out that it won’t crank without being in park. Sorry for the confusion.

So US Shift sold us their wiring harness and the book that came with it shows where to run all of the wires. I have those installed. None go back to the PCM though.

On the truck side of it I don’t know what wire needs to be triggered nor what the voltage needs to be to trick the truck into cranking.

Hope that makes better sense.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I think I have it figured out. It’s actually in the US Shift book. I just didn’t quite understand it correctly. Now that i found a stock diagram it makes sense to me.
 
BlackFlareSide said:
I think I have it figured out. It’s actually in the US Shift book. I just didn’t quite understand it correctly. Now that i found a stock diagram it makes sense to me.
Click to expand...

Yeah the directions turned my head in to a pretzel. Same with the backup lights. I did what some others here recommended and de-pinned the trans connector and popped in the two wires needed for the Quick 4. The rest of the wires stayed in place so everything else worked OK.
 
Raymond_B said:
Yeah the directions turned my head in to a pretzel. Same with the backup lights. I did what some others here recommended and de-pinned the trans connector and popped in the two wires needed for the Quick 4. The rest of the wires stayed in place so everything else worked OK.
Click to expand...

I’m glad I’m not the only one! They could definitely be better.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
oilwell1415 said:
You are making me feel bad about my install. I still don't have a running car. The combination of mission creep (aka "as long as I'm in there I might as well....") and working on a 50 year old car has turned my install into a nightmare. I'm getting there, but things are getting a little ridiculous. It doesn't help that I can only find about one 3-4 hour block of time per week to work on it, but I still thought this would go much more quickly. Famous last words.
Click to expand...

We’ll to be fair this is just a small side project. My main project is sitting beside it and I’m itching to get back to it! So that’s my motivation!

For me, those 3-4 hr blocks of time with a week in between are very inefficient. It takes me a while to wrap my head back around where I was at and what needs to be done. Then it’s time to clean up and put tools away.

My main project is going on a year now and I want to get it done, so I know the feeling. Mission creep and falling off a slippery slope.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top