Ranchero 1968
"Mr. Happy"
First off, you will need to perform an upgrade of the alternator charging cable. There are a few places to purchase the heavy duty charging cable. Some of these are: Painless Wiring (Summit Racing, Jeg's, Painless Wiring), NAPA Auto Parts, numerous online Mustang parts websites and our very own StruckBy Power Systems. And, if you read my previous thread on StruckBy battery/alternator cables, then you know that you must contact NLOC supporting vendor (SV) thePunisher (Paul).
...on to the install
The following will be needed to perform this very simple task. It should take no more than an hour if you take your time.
1. a 130 amp alternator for a 1994/1995 Ford E250 Van/Ambulance. You can purchase alternator's from your local parts store, Summit, Jeg's, Rock Auto and the list goes on and on.
2. a breaker bar and a ratchet handle.
3. a 15 mm socket for the idler pulley bolt (to remove the serpentine belt).
4. a 10 mm socket for the charging cable to alternator attach bolt.
5. a 13mm socket for the three alternator to bracket attach bolts.
6. a tube of Dielectric Grease.
7. some other item's are: a fender cover, magnetic hardware pan, gloves, a 3" flat tip screwdriver, a 1/2" ratcheting box end wrench to disconnect the negative battery cable and a telescopic magnetic tip pick-up tool.
**Note: this would be a great time to replace the idler pulley and/or serpentine belt if they are worn out.
**Tip: ensure you purchase an alternator with a LLT Warranty. Have the store perform an operational check of the alternator prior to leaving.
A photo of the tools that will/may be required.
...on to the install
The following will be needed to perform this very simple task. It should take no more than an hour if you take your time.
1. a 130 amp alternator for a 1994/1995 Ford E250 Van/Ambulance. You can purchase alternator's from your local parts store, Summit, Jeg's, Rock Auto and the list goes on and on.
2. a breaker bar and a ratchet handle.
3. a 15 mm socket for the idler pulley bolt (to remove the serpentine belt).
4. a 10 mm socket for the charging cable to alternator attach bolt.
5. a 13mm socket for the three alternator to bracket attach bolts.
6. a tube of Dielectric Grease.
7. some other item's are: a fender cover, magnetic hardware pan, gloves, a 3" flat tip screwdriver, a 1/2" ratcheting box end wrench to disconnect the negative battery cable and a telescopic magnetic tip pick-up tool.
**Note: this would be a great time to replace the idler pulley and/or serpentine belt if they are worn out.
**Tip: ensure you purchase an alternator with a LLT Warranty. Have the store perform an operational check of the alternator prior to leaving.
A photo of the tools that will/may be required.
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oes anyone know if the ID numbers listed above are the only correct ID numbers? Several that I have looked at have F3/F5DU-xxxxxx. Is there any other way to tell that it is a 130 amp?
