Jamie V Rear Leaf Spring "Trick"
- Thread starter Raymond_B
- Start date
Jamie V
Well-known member
Correct.
Slapper bar
Overload leaf
First full leaf.
You’ll need a new center leaf spring pack bolt because the factor bolt won’t have enough threads to tighten it back up. I used an Allen headed bolt. The head fit down into the leafy spring perch in the rear perfectly.
From wayyy back in the day.
Slapper bar
Overload leaf
First full leaf.
You’ll need a new center leaf spring pack bolt because the factor bolt won’t have enough threads to tighten it back up. I used an Allen headed bolt. The head fit down into the leafy spring perch in the rear perfectly.
From wayyy back in the day.
BlackFlareSide
Member
Certified Drunk
Member
The truck squats from the axle is being pushed upward..., less traction.
So far I've only taken out the slapper.
How much difference in load-carrying do you think this makes? I'd like to drop the rear a touch more, but so far I haven't needed to c-notch. However, when the bed's off, it would be the perfect time to do so.
How much difference in load-carrying do you think this makes? I'd like to drop the rear a touch more, but so far I haven't needed to c-notch. However, when the bed's off, it would be the perfect time to do so.
Jamie V
Well-known member
I’m not sure on the load carrying capabilities. I kneow that by taking a few leaves out it makes the back of the truck a little less rigid and let you control the suspension with the shocks more.
As for the c notch I would get the suspension where you want it first and trim down or get shorter bump stops and see if it’s necessary.
As for the c notch I would get the suspension where you want it first and trim down or get shorter bump stops and see if it’s necessary.
droppedf100
Active member
My truck has the shackle hanger drop and I removed the 2 above the slapper but I kept the slapper on mine as my traction bar. It still works fine as a truck and rides nice but it will 100% need a c notch.
droppedf100
Active member
Exactly. And the lowest setting on the shackles. I honestly didn’t know that was the elusive Jamie V trick when I did it. I originally did a flip with the lightning leafs but it was too low and bottomed out even with c notches. Then I did the drop shackles and hangers but it was too high. Then I removed the leaf directly below the main leaf and it sat perfect (to me) but it lost a lot of load bearing and would bottom out with something heavy in the bed like my quad. So I put that leaf back in removed the half leaf and first full leaf but kept the slapper an it’s about perfect and can still haul a few hundred pounds without an issue and hooks good too.
I've pulled the slapper on mine, think I'll pull the overload and leave it like that.
OK, here's what I've written up so far. Once I get the hardware in I will finish up with installs of that and more pictures.
With the leaf springs out of the truck identify the leafs that you will keep which is basically the top 3. I marked mine to ensure I did not mix them up and also orient them back the way they were.
Now you’ll want to attach a clamp to the springs (for safety in case there’s any tension) and use a 15mm socket to remove the nut from the spring center bolt. You’ll need a pair of vise-grips to hold the head of the bolt as it is round.
Once the nut is removed simply drive out the center bolt and release the c-clamp.
Now that the center bolt is removed the slapper bar will immediately be free and all the other leafs can slide out with the exception of the overload and main leaf. The overload has a u-clamp riveted to it.
I used a propane torch to heat up the u-clamp and then a large pry bar to spread the clamp out. Doing it like this in non-destructive allows you to reassemble the spring back to the stock configuration if you ever choose to do so.
Now you are left with just the main leaf and can add back the two upper leafs. This is why I suggest marking so you get everything back like it was. This is what the springs look like when everything is removed.
As you can see the original spring center bolt is too long now and will need to be replaced.
To replace the spring center bolt you’ll need a socket head cap screw. This is because a regular bolt head would not fit in the leaf spring pads of the rear end. I ordered 2x grade 8 7/16x20 from Fastenal along with grade 8 nuts.
Socket Head Cap Screws
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/23857
Nuts https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/36458
You will also need to get new spring u-clamps.
There are many suppliers I chose these from Rancho
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/RAN-RS8131
While you have everything apart now is a good time to replace the spring and shackle bushings. I used these from Energy Suspension. I looked up the part number in our Lightning parts guide here
https://www.nloc.net/vbforum/showthread.php/213142-Finding-Replacement-Parts
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ENS-4-2122G
***Remember you MUST run either long bars, Cal-Tracs, or some sort of device with this mod***
With the leaf springs out of the truck identify the leafs that you will keep which is basically the top 3. I marked mine to ensure I did not mix them up and also orient them back the way they were.
Now you’ll want to attach a clamp to the springs (for safety in case there’s any tension) and use a 15mm socket to remove the nut from the spring center bolt. You’ll need a pair of vise-grips to hold the head of the bolt as it is round.
Once the nut is removed simply drive out the center bolt and release the c-clamp.
Now that the center bolt is removed the slapper bar will immediately be free and all the other leafs can slide out with the exception of the overload and main leaf. The overload has a u-clamp riveted to it.
I used a propane torch to heat up the u-clamp and then a large pry bar to spread the clamp out. Doing it like this in non-destructive allows you to reassemble the spring back to the stock configuration if you ever choose to do so.
Now you are left with just the main leaf and can add back the two upper leafs. This is why I suggest marking so you get everything back like it was. This is what the springs look like when everything is removed.
As you can see the original spring center bolt is too long now and will need to be replaced.
To replace the spring center bolt you’ll need a socket head cap screw. This is because a regular bolt head would not fit in the leaf spring pads of the rear end. I ordered 2x grade 8 7/16x20 from Fastenal along with grade 8 nuts.
Socket Head Cap Screws
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/23857
Nuts https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/36458
You will also need to get new spring u-clamps.
There are many suppliers I chose these from Rancho
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/RAN-RS8131
While you have everything apart now is a good time to replace the spring and shackle bushings. I used these from Energy Suspension. I looked up the part number in our Lightning parts guide here
https://www.nloc.net/vbforum/showthread.php/213142-Finding-Replacement-Parts
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ENS-4-2122G
***Remember you MUST run either long bars, Cal-Tracs, or some sort of device with this mod***
droppedf100
Active member
You can also keep the slapper bar and remove the other 2 leafs like I did. It works well street and track.
You know I need to add in the Joe sub-mod LOL. So you didn't have anything else? No CalTracks, long bars, etc?
droppedf100
Active member
Lmao. I still have my truck set up this way. Only the factory slapper and I added shims to correct the pinion angle. It’s been 1.51 60ft on 295/55-15 drag radials leaving on a 125 shot
Do you know about how much just removing the 2 leafs dropped the truck?