Volvo and Other Electric PS Pump Controller

Raymond_B

Raymond_B

Administrator
I Support the NLOC
This is pretty cool and will certainly be better than driving around with a static assist. What is nice is you can use all different kinds of inputs (CAN, VSS, a knob, PWM, etc).

www.nmstec.ca

Universal Power Steering Controller (PSC)

Our power steering controller was designed to control the many CANBUS operated power steering assist systems.
www.nmstec.ca www.nmstec.ca
 
I personally highly recommend Mazda 10-12 pumps :)
Slightly faster reaction time to changes, and i'd say quite more reliable than previous gen & volvos.

Several other benefits of Mazda pumps over volvo:
  1. Cost. Since mazda pumps require canbus messages to run at all, unlike volvo limp mode, no one buys them. You can pick one up for $50 at a junkyard.
  2. Remote reservoir. Volvos just have one built in reservoir, making their mounting positions more difficult. Where as mazdas OEM, have a small line leading to a remote reservoir.
  3. Seem to last longer due to better internal cooling, but could always benefit from an external cooler if constantly going sideways.
Here is the mazda pump mounted in an LQ4 swapped s13: https://photos.app.goo.gl/pMRsttc1s1PKhFFr8


Just in case anyone asks, the PSC controller supports any input you'd like. For remote control you can do PWM input, CAN 0-100, Frequency input.
For standalone mode, you can use a HALL/VR sensor, Potentiometer, your phone, CAN VSS.
Demo of the UI and features: https://psc-demo.nmstec.ca/


Note, saw pings from this website to mine, figured i'd see whats going on! Most forums frown on advertisements, however I can't find any in TOS regarding that, so just in case, bought a subscription to the website!
 
nmstec said:
I personally highly recommend Mazda 10-12 pumps :)
Slightly faster reaction time to changes, and i'd say quite more reliable than previous gen & volvos.

Several other benefits of Mazda pumps over volvo:
  1. Cost. Since mazda pumps require canbus messages to run at all, unlike volvo limp mode, no one buys them. You can pick one up for $50 at a junkyard.
  2. Remote reservoir. Volvos just have one built in reservoir, making their mounting positions more difficult. Where as mazdas OEM, have a small line leading to a remote reservoir.
  3. Seem to last longer due to better internal cooling, but could always benefit from an external cooler if constantly going sideways.
Here is the mazda pump mounted in an LQ4 swapped s13: https://photos.app.goo.gl/pMRsttc1s1PKhFFr8


Just in case anyone asks, the PSC controller supports any input you'd like. For remote control you can do PWM input, CAN 0-100, Frequency input.
For standalone mode, you can use a HALL/VR sensor, Potentiometer, your phone, CAN VSS.
Demo of the UI and features: https://psc-demo.nmstec.ca/


Note, saw pings from this website to mine, figured i'd see whats going on! Most forums frown on advertisements, however I can't find any in TOS regarding that, so just in case, bought a subscription to the website!
Click to expand...

Thank you very much for the subscription and the information, not to mention the excellent product. Feel free to post/'advertise as much as you wish. I am certainly going to look at that Mazda pump. Lot's of guys here are looking at an electric pump due to underhood space constraints due to turbos. Many of us are also running Megasquirt based systems which is nice because the CAN data stream is pretty well documented and configurable. I also posted on the MSEXTRA forums as well :)
 
Not all Volvo pumps have the built in res. Some are remote. I dont have alot of miles on my Volvo pump, but i havent had an issue with it yet
 
lightn95 said:
Not all Volvo pumps have the built in res. Some are remote. I dont have alot of miles on my Volvo pump, but i havent had an issue with it yet
Click to expand...
That's true, but I mean in a more generic sense, a lot more "reservoir-less" pumps out there than with.
For reliability I speak from drifting areas, under high loads.

My controller supports Volvos too, and I released the code online on how to run it with less than $15 of parts: https://github.com/NMSTEC/Volvo_EPS_FREE

Overall I mean to say I prefer mazda pumps.
 
Here’s my take, my EFI, PDM, I/O box, dash, hell even my steering wheel talk over CAN. So why run the PS pump in limp mode at 70% duty cycle full time? Use the pump as intended and vary the pressure and flow as the OEM intended.

To me the controller is a GREAT item if you’re going to run an electric PS pump.
 
So what I'm understanding here is that the controller can make an electric power steering setup speed sensitive with a CANbus VSS data stream?
 
FMOS Racing said:
So what I'm understanding here is that the controller can make an electric power steering setup speed sensitive with a CANbus VSS data stream?
Click to expand...
In standalone mode yep!
You can also go direct control over it with your ecu using a output pin, or send it a 0-100 command by canbus. Or use a potentiometer!
 
nmstec said:
In standalone mode yep!
You can also go direct control over it with your ecu using a output pin, or send it a 0-100 command by canbus. Or use a potentiometer!
Click to expand...
I also meant to ask, so the controller also broadcasts messages over CAN? I use an AiM dash do you have a DBC file or other description of the CAN data so I can import it in to RaceStudio? I would love to be able to display that info.
 
Raymond_B said:
I also meant to ask, so the controller also broadcasts messages over CAN? I use an AiM dash do you have a DBC file or other description of the CAN data so I can import it in to RaceStudio? I would love to be able to display that info.
Click to expand...
Yep! In the CAN IO tab, enter the address you'd like it to transmit, baud rate of your bus, and enable PSC broadcast. The bytes are as following:
0 = pump duty % (0-64)
1, 2= VSS in km/h, standard coding. x10 multiplier, LSB is 2
3, 4 = pressure sensor (if installed) - 0.0333 Multiplier in KPA
5 = temp sensor (if installed) -40 <-> +200 in C*
7 = error 00 = good, FF = error state, 30 = overtemp, 60 = overpressure, 90 = no CAN data from EPAS

Example:
1671558660760.png
 
nmstec said:
Yep! In the CAN IO tab, enter the address you'd like it to transmit, baud rate of your bus, and enable PSC broadcast. The bytes are as following:
0 = pump duty % (0-64)
1, 2= VSS in km/h, standard coding. x10 multiplier, LSB is 2
3, 4 = pressure sensor (if installed) - 0.0333 Multiplier in KPA
5 = temp sensor (if installed) -40 <-> +200 in C*
7 = error 00 = good, FF = error state, 30 = overtemp, 60 = overpressure, 90 = no CAN data from EPAS

Example:
View attachment 103901
Click to expand...

Perfecto!
 
Found a cheap Mazda3 pump and reservoir on eBay with free shipping so I ordered the controller too :) I figure I can temporarily mount the pump somewhere under the hood and just loop the fluid hose in order to test controller, Megasquirt CAN, etc. Should be a really easy conversion. @nmstec do you know the amp draw of the pump over it's range of operation including startup and at full lock?
 
Raymond_B said:
Found a cheap Mazda3 pump and reservoir on eBay with free shipping so I ordered the controller too :) I figure I can temporarily mount the pump somewhere under the hood and just loop the fluid hose in order to test controller, Megasquirt CAN, etc. Should be a really easy conversion. @nmstec do you know the amp draw of the pump over it's range of operation including startup and at full lock?
Click to expand...
The draw is actually highly dependent on the rest of the car. How much restriction you have on rack, tire size, etc.
I've never seen it go over 40 amps personally. However I do have an S13 LS drift car here, with a mazda pump. Giant tires, and highly restrictive rack, so I'll put an amp clamp on it today, and record a video.
 
nmstec said:
The draw is actually highly dependent on the rest of the car. How much restriction you have on rack, tire size, etc.
I've never seen it go over 40 amps personally. However I do have an S13 LS drift car here, with a mazda pump. Giant tires, and highly restrictive rack, so I'll put an amp clamp on it today, and record a video.
Click to expand...

Awesome, thanks for that!
 
Raymond_B said:
Found a cheap Mazda3 pump and reservoir on eBay with free shipping so I ordered the controller too :) I figure I can temporarily mount the pump somewhere under the hood and just loop the fluid hose in order to test controller, Megasquirt CAN, etc. Should be a really easy conversion. @nmstec do you know the amp draw of the pump over it's range of operation including startup and at full lock?
Click to expand...
Ray,
I am missing something here. Why does the EXU need to talk to the power steering pump?
 
SVT1077 said:
Ray,
I am missing something here. Why does the EXU need to talk to the power steering pump?
Click to expand...

It doesn't *have* to and plenty of people run them disconnected, but that results in the pump going to a default of something like 77% duty cycle/assist and never changing regardless of speed. Obviously as speed rises you need less assist, in addition I imagine some folks are probably working in a steering angle sensor as well. That would address electric PS performance concerns when you're out on a road course. With no speed or other input and a static pressure and flow elec pumps don't do well. Now that last part is very anecdotal as I've only read about it, I imagine if @nmstec has a drift car he is waaaaay better informed on that.
 
SVT1077 said:
Ray,
I am missing something here. Why does the EXU need to talk to the power steering pump?
Click to expand...
In Ray's specific case, he wants to sniff the already existing VSS signal on the vehicles canbus, that way no additional wires are required. Then in the PSC UI he can set the address and bytes of it, and map the assist level like an OEM vehicle would.
 
nmstec said:
In Ray's specific case, he wants to sniff the already existing VSS signal on the vehicles canbus, that way no additional wires are required. Then in the PSC UI he can set the address and bytes of it, and map the assist level like an OEM vehicle would.
Click to expand...
Still a little over my head but I get the basic idea. Is the electric Mazda pump quiet? I know the Volvo pump is pretty loud. Or, is it only loud be cause it’s not being driven incorrectly?
 
SVT1077 said:
Still a little over my head but I get the basic idea. Is the electric Mazda pump quiet? I know the Volvo pump is pretty loud. Or, is it only loud be cause it’s not being driven incorrectly?
Click to expand...
I mean, its 100% quieter than the engine. I'm sure everyone has seen/heard a mazda 3 before, pump does whine, but even at 100% you can't hear it over the engine.
 
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