PimpxShift install and wiring questions

[core-rider]

OK, I am not 100% familiar with the PiMP setup, I know you run a vacuum line to it, but I do not know if it expects a BAP sensor too. What do the directions say to do with the factory BAP sensor?

I’ll have to check to make sure, but I actually don’t remember it saying anything. IIRC, Jamie used the existing MAP sensor wiring on his truck for something else... could be another factory connector he used though. I’ll dig in to it more tomorrow... just was something I noticed that struck me as odd.


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[Raymond_B]

Yeah there’s settings to have both a BAP and MAP, I’m not sure if Stinger does so or not. You can also calibrate your MAP, but is sounds like it’s reading right with key on engine off

 

[Jamie V]

I'm running 60lb injectors and Stinger wasn't sure if I should set them as 60 or 120lb running batch fire. Turns out 120 is needed... 60 was WAY too rich! :scared1:

What does this screen look like on yours. I was running 42lb injectors in batch fire and I did not have to double the size at all. My truck idled/drove better then stock.

 

[FMOS Racing]

No BAP. It uses the Key-On MAP reading as BAP. There's a way to add BAP if you drive in an area with a lot of changing elevation, but the default is to just key-on MAP as BAP.

And to second what Jamie said, get the req fuel dialed in with Sequential turned off. No other numeric hocus pocus should be required. Besides sequential off, you'll want "Squirts per Engine Cycle" set to "2" and "Injector Staging" set to "Simultaneous" like Jamie's.

Also your mechanical gauge and the other two gauges are all reading the same thing, just different units. Your mechanical gauge changes from "psi" to "in Hg" when it transitions to vacuum. The gauge on the computer stays in psi even at vacuum. 35 kPa abs = -9.5 psi = -19 inHg. Get used to thinking about EVERYTHING in absolute kPa units because that's what the software uses. The other two measurements are just cosmetics and human speak.

 

[core-rider]

Here are my settings and the instruction pages that detail how the setup should be. Your screenshot actually isn't setup the way the instructions say Jamie. Here are my settings...

Instructions...

 

[core-rider]

No BAP. It uses the Key-On MAP reading as BAP. There's a way to add BAP if you drive in an area with a lot of changing elevation, but the default is to just key-on MAP as BAP.

And to second what Jamie said, get the req fuel dialed in with Sequential turned off. No other numeric hocus pocus should be required. Besides sequential off, you'll want "Squirts per Engine Cycle" set to "2" and "Injector Staging" set to "Simultaneous" like Jamie's.

Also your mechanical gauge and the other two gauges are all reading the same thing, just different units. Your mechanical gauge changes from "psi" to "in Hg" when it transitions to vacuum. The gauge on the computer stays in psi even at vacuum. 35 kPa abs = -9.5 psi = -19 inHg. Get used to thinking about EVERYTHING in absolute kPa units because that's what the software uses. The other two measurements are just cosmetics and human speak.

Yeah I figured out ABS (absolute pressure) is different from PSI (gauge pressure)... That's where my confusion came from. They all look comparable once I understood that.

 

[Raymond_B]

No BAP. It uses the Key-On MAP reading as BAP. There's a way to add BAP if you drive in an area with a lot of changing elevation, but the default is to just key-on MAP as BAP.

And to second what Jamie said, get the req fuel dialed in with Sequential turned off. No other numeric hocus pocus should be required. Besides sequential off, you'll want "Squirts per Engine Cycle" set to "2" and "Injector Staging" set to "Simultaneous" like Jamie's.

Also your mechanical gauge and the other two gauges are all reading the same thing, just different units. Your mechanical gauge changes from "psi" to "in Hg" when it transitions to vacuum. The gauge on the computer stays in psi even at vacuum. 35 kPa abs = -9.5 psi = -19 inHg. Get used to thinking about EVERYTHING in absolute kPa units because that's what the software uses. The other two measurements are just cosmetics and human speak.

Interesting, Jeff when I created a vacuum/boost gauge in Tuner Studio for my dash it does show in both PSI and Hg?

 

[Jamie V]

Mine worked very well and I didn’t have to tell it a different size injector. Try what I had with your correct injector info (and engine info if different)

 

[FMOS Racing]

It's an option, but not the default setting for the base Stinger dashboard.

Either setup generates the same req_fuel results, and that 3.8 looks correct to me for either arrangement (alternating/4 or simultaneous/2). But, keep in mind that Stinger is focused primarily on 2.3L 4-cylinders that batch fire all the injectors every engine cycle, and some of their documentation is copy and paste from that setup.

[Edit] Ignore the advice I had here. It boils down to it running right and giving you good numbers on your VE tables. The rest of it is just used to derive that "req_fuel" number. If it's running good and the VE numbers look realistic, then don't worry about changing anything. You'll just change numbers to end up back at the same place.

 

[ASAP]

SUCCESS!!! Upon key turn I get 13.4, then 16.6, then about 15.7 for a second before going to 19.9. Went ahead with first crank to check RPM and getting about 125RPM. Think my battery is a bit low from having the key on so much and not running for 3 weeks.

Need to check and set the base timing and continue moving forward.

Again... HUGE thank you very much Jamie and Raymond for all the help and patience! I’m ready to hear this truck come back to life and begins the real task of tuning!


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Based on what you are saying, you can hook everything up at the 02 connector, then you just add the new spartan ( Bosch) sensor to the pipe.

Where are you guys mounting the controller part of the Spartan 2? In the pass frame rail?


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[Jamie V]

Based on what you are saying, you can hook everything up at the 02 connector, then you just add the new spartan ( Bosch) sensor to the pipe.

Where are you guys mounting the controller part of the Spartan 2? In the pass frame rail?

Yes, I put mine up in the frame rail.

 

[core-rider]

Based on what you are saying, you can hook everything up at the 02 connector, then you just add the new spartan ( Bosch) sensor to the pipe.

Where are you guys mounting the controller part of the Spartan 2? In the pass frame rail?


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I actually have mine strapped to the starter wire tucked up between the starter and the block because I relocated the oil filter to the area in the passenger frame rail.

But yes I cut the wires at the original O2 sensor and used that as a harness to wire in the controller and gauge (gauge isn’t necessary), then the WB O2 replaces the old one in the pipe, and the Spartan harness plugs into it. Then the factory O2 plugs back into its connector giving everything power, ground, and signal through the factory harness.

Really just a slightly more complicated plug and play connection.


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[ASAP]

Yes, I put mine up in the frame rail.

Gottya! Thanks!


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[ASAP]

I actually have mine strapped to the starter wire tucked up between the starter and the block because I relocated the oil filter to the area in the passenger frame rail.

But yes I cut the wires at the original O2 sensor and used that as a harness to wire in the controller and gauge (gauge isn’t necessary), then the WB O2 replaces the old one in the pipe, and the Spartan harness plugs into it. Then the factory O2 plugs back into its connector giving everything power, ground, and signal through the factory harness.

Really just a slightly more complicated plug and play connection.


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Good deal! Thank you sir!


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[Raymond_B]

I actually have mine strapped to the starter wire tucked up between the starter and the block because I relocated the oil filter to the area in the passenger frame rail.

But yes I cut the wires at the original O2 sensor and used that as a harness to wire in the controller and gauge (gauge isn’t necessary), then the WB O2 replaces the old one in the pipe, and the Spartan harness plugs into it. Then the factory O2 plugs back into its connector giving everything power, ground, and signal through the factory harness.

Really just a slightly more complicated plug and play connection.


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You're probably OK, but I would try to mount it somewhere cooler. Seems like it will get very hot where you have it.

 

[core-rider]

You're probably OK, but I would try to mount it somewhere cooler. Seems like it will get very hot where you have it.

Yeah I thought about that too... I may wrap it in some sleeving to help keep the heat off it. I can’t really move it too far now because of wire length from all my rewire attempts. Maybe moving it to under the motor mount on the frame of it will reach will be a better spot. I’ll have to look into my options.


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[Jamie V]

Just incase you guys don’t know.... the wire that the factory O2 sensor plugs into that is part of the starter wiring harness runs up with the battery cables and there is another plug by the pass side fender. You could hook your Spartan controller into that plug and just run the O2 sensor down to the exhaust.



Edit: here are some pictures.

 

[core-rider]

Dang wish I'd known that about a week ago! :sigh:

 

[Jamie V]

Sorry

 

[core-rider]

Not on you Jamie... just great piece of info to know in the future.

Show check out this weirdness... this is the factory vacuum line for the FPR I removed because it wouldn’t work with the adjustable regulator I installed. Hard to see in the pics, but there is a ball bearing stuck in the end. I’m guessing from the factory because I know for sure I didn’t do it and I’ve owned this truck the last 23 years. Has anyone else noticed this? Glad o had to replace it because that would have made the boost reference useless in the future!

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