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Thread: 96 f-150

  1. #1
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    96 f-150

    My daughter, 14 year old, got bit by the OBS truck bug, maybe from watching and helping me work on mine. Sheís been looking at used trucks for about a year now and we finally picked one up the other day. Itís a 96 2wd with a rebuilt 5.0 and rebuilt E4od.


    The guy that had it decided carbureted was better/cheaper and removed all of the EFI. He left the computer in it to run the transmission, which it did horribly. I called US Shift and got a controller headed this way.

    Itís been a while since Iíve driven a stock-ish 302. This one has gt40 heads and a 498 lift cam designed for 1500-5500 rpm range and intake to match that. 3.55 rear gears and 33Ē tires with 6Ē lift. Yes itís 2wd. Acceleration seems pretty week to me. I know absolutely nothing about tuning a carb. It has a 650cfm carb. Base timing is 10į and max timing is 38į, mechanical advance with vacuum reference that is not hooked up, Iíve read that it is only to help idle but I donít really know.

    First thing I wanted to do was put the EFI back on it but with it being a 96 it might be difficult and expensive to find all of the parts/ wiring etc. I donít think I have room in my head to research all the differences. Maybe someone can enlighten me. I remember [mention]droppedf100 [/mention] removed ALL of the wiring and changing it to a 95. I believe door and dash wiring has to be removed also, if IRC.

    So we are looking at using the Sniper EFI set up with the distributor and electronic timing control. Seems like we can put this set up in for less than 2k and get a little $ back from selling the new carb and spark system thatís in it and send back the $220 TPS for the carb setup. It does require 58 psi of fuel pressure and has a built in FPR. Does anyone know if the stock pump is capable of that?

    Any other input is welcome also. What would you do with it? What say you?




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    Vacuum advance is relevant any time you're not at full throttle.

    I most certainly would change to efi, personally, especially with my daughter driving it. It's so much more reliable in a wide variety of conditions.

    The Sniper will be better than the 93 to 95 EFI was.


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    96 f-150

    Quote Originally Posted by FMOS Racing View Post
    Vacuum advance is relevant any time you're not at full throttle.

    I most certainly would change to efi, personally, especially with my daughter driving it. It's so much more reliable in a wide variety of conditions.

    The Sniper will be better than the 93 to 95 EFI was.


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    Thanks for the advice Jeff!
    Itís seems like such a cool system and has really good reviews for the most part. Itís very simple to set up through the touch screen interface and let it auto tune, but you can hook a laptop to it and tweak it as much as you want with the full software. Iím kind of excited to try it out.

    Do you know if the stock fuel pumps will run at 58psi?

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    I'm in the process of installing a Sniper on my wife's 73 Camaro right now. I haven't had any issues with the Sniper itself, but the car isn't cooperating at all. For that truck I would definitely recommend doing that over the carb or going back to stock. The Sniper isn't perfect, but it's better than messing with carbs. I wouldn't bother with the Sniper timing control, at least not at first. The stock fuel pumps will easily deliver the 58 psi you need. That's stock fuel pressure for the 4.9.

    The big benefit of the vacuum advance is that it adds timing during part throttle cruise to help mileage and response. You definitely want to keep that. It should connect to a ported vacuum source.

    It sounds like the combination is way off on that truck. A cam with .498 lift probably has around 275-280 degrees of duration. I'd yank that out and put something more truck friendly in. The 3.55 gears aren't helping either. Those trucks aren't speedy with stock tires. Adding 5-6" of tire height and the weight to go with it isn't helping. Even ignoring the added rotating weight, that's like driving around with 2.73 gears. A set of 4.88 gears would make a world of difference.
    2001 Lightning #127, 13.18@105, 374 rwhp/445 rwtq, no chip, no pullies, no nitrous, on street tires and with the stock airbox.

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    Thanks for the reply oilwell!


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    After posting that I thought of one thing that is dumb about the Sniper. The throttle arm sits about an inch farther outboard than it does on a carb. That means the linkage doesn't fit right. It's really not a huge deal, but it's something you shouldn't have to mess with. The kit also doesn't come with very many options for fuel line adapters. I think there are 4 in the box and none of them were of any use. I had to order a 45 degree adapter for the pressure line and a 90 degree adapter for the return. I also had to order a new thermostat housing so the CTS would fit, but that's more of a car issue than a Sniper issue. It also didn't include the fuel pump block off plate that it said was included, but that's not a concern to you. It doesn't make much sense to include it anyway since they don't know what engine it's going on.
    2001 Lightning #127, 13.18@105, 374 rwhp/445 rwtq, no chip, no pullies, no nitrous, on street tires and with the stock airbox.

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    Quote Originally Posted by oilwell1415 View Post
    After posting that I thought of one thing that is dumb about the Sniper. The throttle arm sits about an inch farther outboard than it does on a carb. That means the linkage doesn't fit right. It's really not a huge deal, but it's something you shouldn't have to mess with. The kit also doesn't come with very many options for fuel line adapters. I think there are 4 in the box and none of them were of any use. I had to order a 45 degree adapter for the pressure line and a 90 degree adapter for the return. I also had to order a new thermostat housing so the CTS would fit, but that's more of a car issue than a Sniper issue. It also didn't include the fuel pump block off plate that it said was included, but that's not a concern to you. It doesn't make much sense to include it anyway since they don't know what engine it's going on.
    Iím curious why you said not to mess with sniper timing control. I thought it would be much better than the mechanical/vacuum advance that it is using now.


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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackFlareSide View Post
    Iím curious why you said not to mess with sniper timing control. I thought it would be much better than the mechanical/vacuum advance that it is using now.
    Initially I wouldn't do it because it's one more variable to chase while you're getting things setup. If it's working now and it doesn't run right after the Sniper install, you only have to worry about troubleshooting fuel issues and not also timing issues. After you've got it set up and running I question whether or not it's worth the effort to make it work. The timing curves that come in the Sniper are very abrupt and can cause some issues with the fuel mapping and driveability. This can be smoothed with the laptop, but you'll still be stuck with a curve that is less than optimum. If it was port injected and supported a knock sensor I think there would be more there to gain, but with the mixture variations from cylinder to cylinder and no knock sensor for protection I think you'll spend a lot of time tinkering in pursuit of very minimal gains over a properly set up mechanical and vacuum advance system.
    2001 Lightning #127, 13.18@105, 374 rwhp/445 rwtq, no chip, no pullies, no nitrous, on street tires and with the stock airbox.

  9. #9
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    Too much carb for it.
    My 5.0 85GT with HCI and Long tubes ran best when I had my Demon resized from 650 to 575cfm (sent it to demon).

    A 5.0 does not need that much cfm stk 4bbl in the day on um was like 425cfm.

    Bigger is not better with a carb always.


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    So we decided to buy the Holley Sniper EFI, US Shift Quick 2 controller, and the Holley EFI Hyperspark distributor, and coil.

    Taking Oilwells advice we are installing and testing it in 3 different steps.

    First we installed the Sniper. It was a pretty easy installation. Input the data that it asked for. Verified that the stock fuel pump was giving it 55-60 psi, and bumped the ignition it immediately started and ran at high idle for cold start and settled in to a nice idle when warmed up. Next took it for a drive to let it learn a bit.

    Side note I also hooked up the vacuum to the timing advance.

    Keep in mind that the transmission is still shifting way to early and wonít down shift because it has no controller yet, but the truck runs 100% better already! No off idle stumbling, no rough idle cold start pat the gas and talk sweet to it, much more power and instant throttle response. Ran it for about 15 minutes then put it back in the shop to. Install transmission controller. Very happy so far and I expect that it will only get better as it self learns and tunes.
    I was really impressed with the base tune.

    I will update after the quick shift is installed.





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    I need a little help.
    I got the Quick 2 Transmission controller put in. The ford PCM/ECU is still in the truck to run various functions. Now that the PCM does not get a signal that the truck is in neutral or park it will not engage the starter. Does anyone know a fix for this?

  12. #12
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    I'm pretty sure that's separate from the ecu.

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    96 f-150

    Quote Originally Posted by FMOS Racing View Post
    I'm pretty sure that's separate from the ecu.

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    In the PCM?

    When the transmission wiring was still hooked up to the ECU it had a no start issue that was related to the transmission not registered in park or neutral.
    When I use a test light it does not send a + voltage to the S post on the start relay.




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    Last edited by BlackFlareSide; 11-29-2021 at 08:54 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackFlareSide View Post
    First we installed the Sniper. It was a pretty easy installation. Input the data that it asked for. Verified that the stock fuel pump was giving it 55-60 psi, and bumped the ignition it immediately started and ran at high idle for cold start and settled in to a nice idle when warmed up. Next took it for a drive to let it learn a bit.
    You are making me feel bad about my install. I still don't have a running car. The combination of mission creep (aka "as long as I'm in there I might as well....") and working on a 50 year old car has turned my install into a nightmare. I'm getting there, but things are getting a little ridiculous. It doesn't help that I can only find about one 3-4 hour block of time per week to work on it, but I still thought this would go much more quickly. Famous last words.
    2001 Lightning #127, 13.18@105, 374 rwhp/445 rwtq, no chip, no pullies, no nitrous, on street tires and with the stock airbox.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackFlareSide View Post
    In the PCM?

    When the transmission wiring was still hooked up to the ECU it had a no start issue that was related to the transmission not registered in park or neutral.
    When I use a test light it does not send a + voltage to the S post on the start relay.




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    Hey Gary, I am confused. So the truck had a no start issue *before* the Quick 2 was installed? If so I would check the orientation of the neutral safety switch. Also the Quick 2 only needs like 2 wires of the original harness to work. The others can be left in place *including the one that completes the circuit to the solenoid.
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