Water to Air Intercooler Setup

[SVT1077]

I live in SC so 100 degrees with 100% humidity is common in the summer.

Then I shouldn't have any issues with 8PSI, thanks for the info. I will stop hijacking the thread.

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[xboxjx]

Speaking from wasted money and learning...
Powedynes are fun but can cost you money to make them max out. You could upgrade the internal belt, bearings, impeller, bigger crank pulley, smaller upper pulley, add a 8 to 12 ribbed belt, and another idler for the slippage. That gives you a mean little blower but cost about $1000 or more to do. I would focus on your long term goals and read up on everyone else’s build and see what they spent their money on. Because is turns into a snow ball effect. Best money spent would be on, 1st good tires, 2nd long bars to save the rear end and get better traction, 3rd a punisher valve body, 4th a quality converter personally “Circle D”, 5th gauges trans temp, AFR, Fuel Pressure, and boost, 6th simple trans upgrades: moroso or 4x4 pan, stay put filter clip, bigger transmission cooler or junkyard 1999 and up f250 cooler, and nice braided rerouted transmission lines. 7th long tube headers: kooks or Macs with a nice exhaust system. Then to run true duals you almost have to delete the side tank that will help you loose weight. You can also remove the spare tire and hanger for weight reduction. Those are some simple upgrades to save things from breaking but open up room to make more power. If you want to start making make power you should really read about the other builds. Afr heads are really nice but if your motor has stock pistons I’d run a 185 58cc head. Also it depends if you have smog equipment or you can still get them with smog ports. 225s would be great for a forges stroker motor. Then you have to buy a tuning system and build the transmission. I would decide what I really want the truck to do in the future and save for the goals. That’s why I sold my 4 extra roller 351ws blocks. 1 was the 427 short block from 871Bolt’s red truck and the other was a 357. Both had eagle h-beam rods with nice pistons. I decided to wait and buy a dart block to make all the power I want. Probably replace the E4od with a 4L80e since the market has a lot more software for them. Then quick a class I want to run and build the truck for it, aka dragweek. Sorry to get off topic but here are some helpful pics of the upgrades for a powerdyne and links. Also you will have to look for a pulley calculator to figure out what size pulleys you would need to make what level of boost. Then the max rpm of what a powerdyne stock or upgraded can make.

http://www.superchargerrebuild.com/powerdyne/

https://jonbondperformance.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=10_96_102

https://928motorsports.com/parts/superpowerdyne.php

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[mikerunt]

Speaking from wasted money and learning...
Powedynes are fun but can cost you money to make them max out. You could upgrade the internal belt, bearings, impeller, bigger crank pulley, smaller upper pulley, add a 8 to 12 ribbed belt, and another idler for the slippage. That gives you a mean little blower but cost about $1000 or more to do. I would focus on your long term goals and read up on everyone else’s build and see what they spent their money on. Because is turns into a snow ball effect. Best money spent would be on, 1st good tires, 2nd long bars to save the rear end and get better traction, 3rd a punisher valve body, 4th a quality converter personally “Circle D”, 5th gauges trans temp, AFR, Fuel Pressure, and boost, 6th simple trans upgrades: moroso or 4x4 pan, stay put filter clip, bigger transmission cooler or junkyard 1999 and up f250 cooler, and nice braided rerouted transmission lines. 7th long tube headers: kooks or Macs with a nice exhaust system. Then to run true duals you almost have to delete the side tank that will help you loose weight. You can also remove the spare tire and hanger for weight reduction. Those are some simple upgrades to save things from breaking but open up room to make more power. If you want to start making make power you should really read about the other builds. Afr heads are really nice but if your motor has stock pistons I’d run a 185 58cc head. Also it depends if you have smog equipment or you can still get them with smog ports. 225s would be great for a forges stroker motor. Then you have to buy a tuning system and build the transmission. I would decide what I really want the truck to do in the future and save for the goals. That’s why I sold my 4 extra roller 351ws blocks. 1 was the 427 short block from 871Bolt’s red truck and the other was a 357. Both had eagle h-beam rods with nice pistons. I decided to wait and buy a dart block to make all the power I want. Probably replace the E4od with a 4L80e since the market has a lot more software for them. Then quick a class I want to run and build the truck for it, aka dragweek. Sorry to get off topic but here are some helpful pics of the upgrades for a powerdyne and links. Also you will have to look for a pulley calculator to figure out what size pulleys you would need to make what level of boost. Then the max rpm of what a powerdyne stock or upgraded can make.

http://www.superchargerrebuild.com/powerdyne/

https://jonbondperformance.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=10_96_102

https://928motorsports.com/parts/superpowerdyne.php

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Very much appreciated. Currently I have:

AFR/Boost/Wideband Gauges
Long tube headers w/ DI/DO Magnaflow
Trans glow shift kit
Removed spare

I’ll look into the trans deeper pan punisher valve body.

I have also been looking at the Calvert kit. The truck already has the Axle wrap bars - not sure if that was a stock thing?

The front tank removal is interesting- is there value there besides weight savings, such as easier or more efficient fueling setups?

My long term goal will always be a reliable daily - buts it that fine line of how much power can I make and stay reliable!


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[Briansshop]

You can make a LOT of power and still be driveable and reliable. But as said above,you need to have a solid idea on your ultimate HP goals, or you will be going backwards to change things that now won't support your new power level. Much easier/cheaper to do things once and be ready.

 

[xboxjx]

Are you talking about the slapper bars? Those came stock on lightning trucks. The long bars are awesome on these trucks. The front tank removal is a good ideas for later upgrades and you won’t have to worry about a cross flow issue. I deleted mine for 4 reasons. I had a cross flow issue come up. 3 pumps put in lost 10 pounds of pressure and I got tired of dropping the tank. It freed up some weight. Finally I upgraded to long tube headers and true dual exhaust. I daily mine right now till I find a gas saver I like.


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[mikerunt]

Are you talking about the slapper bars? Those came stock on lightning trucks. The long bars are awesome on these trucks. The front tank removal is a good ideas for later upgrades and you won’t have to worry about a cross flow issue. I deleted mine for 4 reasons. I had a cross flow issue come up. 3 pumps put in lost 10 pounds of pressure and I got tired of dropping the tank. It freed up some weight. Finally I upgraded to long tube headers and true dual exhaust. I daily mine right now till I find a gas saver I like.


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Ah - yes, they are the stock slappers. Would the Calvert kit be good setup here? If not, would love suggestions.

http://www.calvertracing.com/store/caltracs-truck-9396-ford-f150-lightning-p-106.html

Good info on the tanks, I’ll explore that more. I do like the idea of a single tank for ease overall, but this thing SUCKS gas so the dual is a bit nice.


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[mikerunt]

You can make a LOT of power and still be driveable and reliable. But as said above,you need to have a solid idea on your ultimate HP goals, or you will be going backwards to change things that now won't support your new power level. Much easier/cheaper to do things once and be ready.

...and I have little no idea what I am doing, so...




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[needmorepower]

The truck already has the deeper 4x4 trans pan, a Transgo shift kit (so no Punisher valve body needed unless you're unhappy with the Transgo), the snubber trick on the factory slapper bars which is good for about 440rwhp/1.7 second 60' times on a prepped track with drag radials, so you can add another 100rwhp to the truck before you'll need long bars for track racing, and probably not need them at all for the street.

I've done a front tank delete before and personally, I wouldn't do it again unless I was building a race truck that wouldn't see much street use.

Like Brian said above, I think the key is to figure out how much power you want to make, if possible, and then start modding the truck accordingly.

What is the fastest vehicle you've ever been in, Mike?

 

[mikerunt]

The truck already has the deeper 4x4 trans pan, a Transgo shift kit (so no Punisher valve body needed unless you're unhappy with the Transgo), the snubber trick on the factory slapper bars which is good for about 440rwhp/1.7 second 60' times on a prepped track with drag radials, so you can add another 100rwhp to the truck before you'll need long bars for track racing, and probably not need them at all for the street.

I've done a front tank delete before and personally, I wouldn't do it again unless I was building a race truck that wouldn't see much street use.

Like Brian said above, I think the key is to figure out how much power you want to make, if possible, and then start modding the truck accordingly.

What is the fastest vehicle you've ever been in, Mike?

I have spent a good amount of my life racing motorcycles (GSXR750 in CVMA, etc) and really enjoy going fast - 150mph+ on the front straight at Big Willow. The fastest car I have been in was a Panamera GTS and it blew my hair back. My goal is reliability for a daily - with the most power I can squeeze out of the truck.

Being such a Newb as I am, maybe someone can offer what they feel a realistic horsepower goal is given my reliability wants? I may be there, or close, and just wasting everyone’s time


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[xboxjx]

I read a lot of guys don’t like that kit and went with long bars. Like needsmorepower says you probably don’t need long bars unless you want to hook better and lower the altitude of the truck. My truck rides a little rougher when I hit bumps but it is also lowered with 20s. Just spend some time read old treads and figure out your power goals, and budget. I’ve spent thousands just to rip it off and upgrade and few months or years later. These are a pretty heavy truck and the tank isn’t to bad to delete but I’d save it like I did. Also these trucks keep going up in value and are getting rarer. If it is a low mileage and high option I’d keep it as a weekend cruiser. I also have another f150 I put to old parts on to upgrade it. Just take you time and do some more research. There are a lot of great guys on here with way more knowledge than me.


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[Jamie V]

I’d go with long bars. You’ll be set with whatever you end up doing.


https://lightningforceperformance.c...lightning-02-03-harley-davidson-on-backorder/