Wastegate question

You will probably continue blowing those hoses off. What you can do to help a little is put zip ties on them and tighten them down. The reason is your exhaust is pressurized like your intake. Those lines are connected to that pressurized exhaust.

I'd sell the 2400 and get a 2800. I didnt even mess around with the 2400 because I knew that it would probably max
 
Yeah, I haven't done much more WOT testing other than for a two second blast to get a feel for how the truck is doing. The manual controller is all the way off so all I am using right now is the 17 psi of springs in the wastegate. When I did the blast I saw 20 psi of boost instead of 17 psi. To date, its the most I've been able to put my foot in the throttle... and when I did, it got a little loose at 50 mph. lol. I'll have to do more testing to find out if the boost is creeping up on me or was that just a momentary spike. Either way the wastegate shouldn't be allowing it right?

I was contemplating getting a BA2800 but I have an MafXtender already in line with my BA2400 (just turned off) that I'm going to try instead. But before I activated it, I wanted to get the tune somewhat close so I'm in the ballpark when I apply all the correction factors. Still having issues with the truck wanting to die after the BOV gets involved or idling rough after. Sal mentioned that I might want to check the EGR to make sure it wasn't being stuck open somehow.

I'll try the zip ties.

Thanks for all the advice, keep it coming!
 
I never corrected the MAF issue. "jarmstrong" on F150 should be able to tell you how to do it, or knows who to contact.
 
Frank5L said:
I never corrected the MAF issue. "jarmstrong" on F150 should be able to tell you how to do it, or knows who to contact.
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Did you just start venting it to atmosphere? If so, did you play with the unmetered air in the tune?

Jody
 
no I was going to try venting to atmosphere, but never did. Just learned ways to keep from having that situation occur. Easy to do when it was 95% race only. I adjusted quite a bit but never seemed to make it better.
 
Frank5L said:
I never corrected the MAF issue. "jarmstrong" on F150 should be able to tell you how to do it, or knows who to contact.
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Ok I've been pretty quiet with my turbo setup and it is working much better.

The dying during burn outs no longer happens. At first Patrick at PSI tried to tune around the MAF and it sorta worked, but not all the time.

When we first began the project we begged, borrrowed a blow-off valve that was iffy at best. We used that just to get up to Ennis and had the dying issues.

So... to the present time... right now we have the biggest blowoff valve that Vortech has. It is attached right at the TB and has a 2 inch bent pipe where it feeds in the inlet (metered air) just behind MAF. We use a SCT MAF sensor. I don't have pictures yet but will soon.

The real headache we had was the damn convertor as Frank mentioned above stalling at 2400 really sucks!!! I have a tough time holding it with the brake. Patrick would grab the bottom of steering wheel with both hands and use that as leverage to hold the brake. I tried that but moved right though the lights. Anyway a long story short... we sent our convertor back to PI and they rebuilt it more for turbo application. It's nearer to 3000 RPM now.

We have been running a string of 11.0 right now and will improve as we get better at launching and better track prep would help alot too.

Frank hope you get your engine completed real soon.

John Armstrong
 
Thanks John. It really stinks to see all of this fun racing stuff and know that I'm down for the winter. I got motor and chassis to do this winter!

I was able to make the 2400 "work" since I had it already, and didnt wanna pull it out and have it restalled (down time!)
 
Phil - right, it shouldn't do it. Could be inaccuracy in the gauge? Hard to say with some real testing.

I vent the BOV on my SB truck to atmosphere. With that Vortech bypass valve, you can preload it to stay closed at idle and cruise and only pop when you blow off. No more turbulence in the MAF.
 
I'm pretty sure my gauge is accurate. I went through this exercise a two months ago swapping out gauges and verifying the gauge was good.
 
On the turbo smart wastegate you need to plug the side port into the manifold and leave the top port open to atmosphere.

Only when using a boost controller should you tap into the top port.
 
Could just be the mechanical deviation in the spring, too. Do you have a lower boost setting spring you can put in there until you get tuned and such?
 
FMOS Racing said:
Could just be the mechanical deviation in the spring, too. Do you have a lower boost setting spring you can put in there until you get tuned and such?
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this is phil we are talking about here... he cant run less boost its not in his blood. he does have springs to run 7 psi and 14 psi also. he has been working on the tune himself everyday using the SCT pro racer package.
 
svtjay said:
this is phil we are talking about here... he cant run less boost its not in his blood. he does have springs to run 7 psi and 14 psi also. he has been working on the tune himself everyday using the SCT pro racer package.
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LOL...
Well, its not like I'm going WOT every driving moment with the truck right now. Just shaking out the bugs.
 
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