Well technically could just fix timing issue and run it but now I'm assuming it all needs to come apart to inspect. I'm guessing at minimum new exhaust valves, hone and new rings just in case. If it's apart I could upgrade some stuff but maybe not.
Don't really think so. It hit like 7700-7800 rpm but Zach at ZSR said it can spin way higher than that without issue. Right now it is looking like the cam bolt may have backed off a touch causing cam pin to shear which retarded the cam. That would cause these exact symptoms. So if that is the case I'm gonna see about double pinning the cam and make sure to red loctite that cam bolt if it wasn't done in the first place. Per the builder, the RPM's I was spinning is nothing. Shaft mount solid roller set up good for 10k rpm lol. This is however a big kick in the pants after all I just went through.
I do plan on sending back to him unless someone local can do it. But I feel like he would be the best for it since he put it together. And I'm definitely not finger pointing at all. I know the risks when you start making this much power. I don't expect him to pay for this however if he does feel like its something he could have prevented then we will see what he says. Bare minimum the motor needs new valves. I may put higher compression pistons in though just to do it.
Lol I wish I could. But I'm not going to let it sit either. Hopefully my buddy with a lift will let me use it again. With the motor prepped for removal it should take less than an hour.
I'm definitely going to weigh my options. There may be a local shop or 2 that can do it.
Yeah I think I will. I think pistons are perfectly fine but I may just put new ones in. See about double pinning the cam. Cam was already fairly large so not sure if there is much to be gained there with a change. I already have the motor "ready to pull". Just need to see about getting to my buddy's lift to do the last little bit. I can do it at house but would be better to have a lift just to be sure.You guys know me and how retentive I can beWith all those quality parts and the power you're going to make, to me it would only make sense to send it back to ZSR. But that's just me being me
The crank snout is machined for dual keys. just not the balancer.
So the taper on the balancer wasn’t enough to keep the key seated? I didn’t check it out but is that key the “correct” length?Found the issue this evening when we pulled the engine. The woodruff key walked out of the crank and allowed the crank gear to spin. It appears that a longer woodruff key would perhaps prevent this as it would only be able to come out so far before it hits the crank bolt.. really sucks.
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Well, I don't know. It measures 2.5" long. I would assume the key should be long enough that even if it slid out some it would contact the crank bolt thus holding it in place. This one had just enough room to slide out obviously. I have no idea what how long the keys are "supposed" to be.
