Some fancy stuff, Raymond!!
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Things are starting to come together
- Thread starter Raymond_B
- Start date
Just tested it in the driveway and it seems good. Waiting for it to cool off to go mess around
I setup one of my steering wheel rotary switches to change pages on the dash. Still need to finish all the labels and indicators and such, but here's where I am so far. 1st page is normal view, 2nd is the PDM view showing stats like what each output has for amperage, 3rd view is super basic. I figure something easy to read at the track and 4th view is "dyno" view.
I figured I'd update here as well. So I've been getting pretty frustrated with not building any real boost and having belt alignment problems. I am fairly sure it is due to bracket flex. I've got some things in the works, but for now I am going to swap over to the non-AC bracket I purchased off Jerry (GJLS) a while back and also use the brace that came with it. Hopefully this solves the issues. Below is the bracket and how it looked on Jerry's truck.
Just sayin'....
LOL believe me I have been thinking about it
Whelp, I might have to apologize to the eBay blower bracket. I've been blaming it for my boost issues. I've tested belts, piping, alignment, pulley sizes, etc, etc. One thing I had NOT done was pressurize the intake with the piping connected to the throttle body. I had simply capped off that end to pressurize the intercooler and associated piping and rubber unions. So tonight I hooked my tester up to the inlet side of the intercooler and low and f'ng behold it's blowing air out of the TPS. And not just a little leak if I hold my air gun wide open I *might* get 3 psi. Quick Google confirms that lot's of people have issues with Accufabs leaking through the throttle blade and TPS holes. This totally explains why I have always had low vacuum... Pisses me off as this was a brand new 90mm Accufab with IAC provision. Pic below is with the TPS removed and yeah there's basically no throttle shaft seal. FML
no denying that is an issue that needs to be addressed but do you really think that's enough to keep the blower from making boost? I've built boost with a BOV stuck open with a turbo. I know a turbo will just spin faster to make up for a leak while the blower wont so I'm just curious your thoughts.
I have to admit I am hoping it's this. Just a few minutes ago I 3D printed a little cap to go over the hole in the middle of the TPS and used JB Weld to seal it to the TPS body, but not down in the throttle shaft area. Then used RTV all over the bottom of the TPS and put a bunch of RTV on the bolts. This is kind of a last ditch effort before I go to the non-AC bracket for testing. For giggles this is what my datalogs look like. As you can see it initially makes close to 10 psi, but then falls off as RPMs increase. I would imagine with a leak it would always be low and that belt slip would look like the datalog where boost is the inverse of RPM. But I dunno, it's worth a try
There is no way on God's green earth that you should "need" to switch to a non AC bracket. I spun my Novi to 62,000 rpm and would make over 20 psi. That is with a hacked up bracket and fixed idlers. I just put all my might into tensioning it. Now, I would throw belts as that much tension flexed the bracket like crazy. Once I made my home made turnbuckle system the belt throwing stopped and I made I believe 22-23 psi through my intercooler. The 1/2 bracket is not the greatest I admit but it can be made to work. The ebay seller told me they could cut the same bracket in 3/4" which I almost pulled trigger on. Get the bracket to stop flexing, fab up an auto tensioner, and send pulley to griptech.... All issues will be resolved. Heck do 1 one of those things and you will be much happier. And don't listen to anyone who spinning their Novi less than 55k. Make it submit to your will!I have to admit I am hoping it's this. Just a few minutes ago I 3D printed a little cap to go over the hole in the middle of the TPS and used JB Weld to seal it to the TPS body, but not down in the throttle shaft area. Then used RTV all over the bottom of the TPS and put a bunch of RTV on the bolts. This is kind of a last ditch effort before I go to the non-AC bracket for testing. For giggles this is what my datalogs look like. As you can see it initially makes close to 10 psi, but then falls off as RPMs increase. I would imagine with a leak it would always be low and that belt slip would look like the datalog where boost is the inverse of RPM. But I dunno, it's worth a try
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I am sure you'll see my posts on FB, but to keep this thread up to date. I tested the truck out tonight with the TPS sealed, it still blows air out the bottom of the throttle shaft, but not the TPS at least. Doesn't seem to have changed much, the faster the engine accelerates the less boost it makes even when I used a hammer and block of wood on the tensioner to get it tight (I loosened it when I put the truck up). I am spinning the blower at 59000 at 6,000 RPM.
This is what RPM, boost and, TPS look like on a 1-2-3 shift. I was shifting manually and watching for cars/cops so I shifted early, but you can clearly see when the engine accelerates fast in 1st boost is nothing, 2nd it gets better, and 3rd it peaks. So I guess it is belt slip.
So when I had the 2 stationary tensioners I had a particular way of getting max tension and I will try to explain. First you will need a belt that you have to fight to put on with both tensioners bottomed out. One of the keys here is to have the bottom slide tensioner in position and just snug up bolts enough to where it won't move but also to where the pulley sits cock eyed because it needs to be tightened down (remember that). Then turn attention to the top tensioner. You want all those bolts to be almost tight but just barely allow the tensioner to move. From there you need a square stock piece of steel that is 4' long or more. I would wedge the bottom of that piece of square steel on the steering box and push up on pulley as hard as I could with all my leverage. When you can't put any more force into it use left hand with ratchet to tighten one of the bolts to hold in place. Then you can tighten the other 2 bolts on that tensioner. The belt should be ridiculously tight now but you aren't done. The bottom tensioner is still sitting cock-eyed and needs tightening. As you tighten those 2 bolts the pulley will pull in and self align making belt much tighter. FYI, if the belt touches itself at any point then you need a shorter belt. I would literally fight my belt to get it on with tensioners all the way bottomed out. If you aren't physically exhausted putting on and tightening the belt then you aren't in the ballpark lol and it will slip. You will see the bracket flex like crazy and pull forward while tightening this hard. At first I intentionally shimmed blower back toward firewall to offset the amount I moved it back forward while tightening. This is why a turnbuckle system is absolutely needed to straighten bracket back out and align pulleys. Again, an auto tensioner was on my to do list before going turbo and I believe it would have made a big difference. I also am a big believer in griptech now... Not Carbonite or anything else.
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You will see from these pics my support bracket progression. At first I made a bracket that tied to AC compressor... That worked ok. The problem with that is that the most flex comes from the other side of the bracket. The second pic is my ghetto redneck "halo" bracket with a turnbuckle. The turnbuckle end was welded to center of the halo to evenly distribute force so it would push the bracket out squarely. This system completely eliminated my bracket flex issue and I stopped throwing belts. Someone could make a much "prettier" version I'm sure but it took me about 30 minutes to figure it out and weld it.
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