Things are starting to come together
- Thread starter Raymond_B
- Start date
It's been forever but I remember there are 3 dents you drill out to fit a socket in to remove the nuts holding the motor.
Yeah I think you are right. I did both my windows a long time ago. The thing is on at least one I didn't actually replace but modified the internal workings using regular nuts to drive the motor instead of the plastic gears that break. Usually the motor itself is still perfectly fine but the gears break. With the metal "gears" it moves with the quickness lol.
Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
lightn95
Well-known member
its not that bad. but you i kinda remember you have to take things out in order to get to those pieces.
i don t remember having to drill any access holes though. but i could be wrong
From what I can tell, there's a couple ways to do this and probably one reason why they sell the motor and actuator. If I just remove the rivets I believe I can simply support the window glass then remove the whole assembly. On reinstall I can just use nuts and bolts. That's what I am going to try. I might put the entire stock setup back in after replacing the bushings if that is all it is.
Same thing on the door lock actuators. The solenoid works fine, the plastic drive eats itself. I did both of those on the white truck. And got a couple of "Ford" logo fobs off ebay.
There used to be a guy who made those gears out of aluminum and was selling them on ebay a like 15 years ago.
Got the new lower hub and pulley on. Accessory belt alignment seems good, but the whole setup (hub and trigger wheel) seems to have a ton of side to side runout. Pulled it back off cleaned the balancer and trigger wheel, but it still has some noticeable wobble. Not sure what’s up. Used a dial indicator on the balancer by itself and that seems OK. Calling it a night. Tomorrow I am going to mount up just the hub with no trigger wheel and see how it looks. Might also try a different set of bolts in case they are bottoming out, but there’s no play in the hub and it looks like it’s solid against the balancer.
I sure like that water pump pulley.
ASAP
Fore!
That’s another custom JamieV item
Yea that’s sweet!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It's better but still has some runout. I went ahead and buttoned everything up and started it, can't really see it when the engine is running. Not sure if it's always been like that or it's just the hub. I guess I can pull it all back off and put the Renegade pulley on, but ugh... I might take a video and post it up.
They are, you can use all kinds of logic or simple high or low triggers depending on what you want. You can also PWM which is my main motivation.
Can it handle the load of an Efan? I want to PWM that if possible so it isn't such a big draw. Also when I go to a big brushless fuel pump I want to PWM that too for street driving. Not sure if I would want to PWM my intercooler pump when I switch to air water.
Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
You can, it just depends on the amperage. Each of those outputs can handle up to 20A continuous or ~10A each when PWM (entire unit can handle 180A total). **However** you can "bond" multiple ports together. So my fuel pump will use two, I need to data log the two SPAL fans, but depending on static pressure they can use 20-30A each so probably 2-3 ports for the fans. Hopefully it's 2 then I have 3 ports left over for expansion. Even if you don't PWM full time you can certainly use "soft start" to reduce inrush currents.
Yeah I have the dual spal fans as well. I read somewhere that the initial spike can be near 100 amps but that seems excessive.could always use 2 outputs per fan and bring them on individually. Are you planning on getting info from ECU via CAN?
Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk