Steps in the Right Direction

core-rider

Paid NLOC Member
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@FMOS Racing… I’ve been thinking of opening my throttle blade a bit anyway. I believe that is a small part of my issues at idle as it has a slight surge sometimes. Thanks for the file… I’ll look it over for comparison.


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FMOS Racing

PSI=:-D
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I'll attach an update once temperatures drop and I can do some fine tuning of cold starts. Firing it up when it's nearly 80 at 6 AM isn't particularly challenging to tune. ;)

BTW, that's an 87 octane tune. Base timing is 10 degrees.
 

core-rider

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I glanced over it last night and I guess you're using 19lb injectors still. Your VE table looks more polished than mine, but all the values are slightly larger. I'm using 60lb injectors in preparation for the turbo which might be some of my issue. My hunting idle I think can be helped with cracking open the throttle blade and playing with the IAC because I think it's duty cycle is too high and also AWU setting need some work I believe. I also need to smooth out the VE more. I've used AutoTune a few times, but even the directions state you'll still need to fine tune it manually... I'm just worried to do too much manual adjusting with my limited knowledge.
 

Raymond_B

Administrator
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I glanced over it last night and I guess you're using 19lb injectors still. Your VE table looks more polished than mine, but all the values are slightly larger. I'm using 60lb injectors in preparation for the turbo which might be some of my issue. My hunting idle I think can be helped with cracking open the throttle blade and playing with the IAC because I think it's duty cycle is too high and also AWU setting need some work I believe. I also need to smooth out the VE more. I've used AutoTune a few times, but even the directions state you'll still need to fine tune it manually... I'm just worried to do too much manual adjusting with my limited knowledge.

If you're working on idle unplug the IAC and manually set the idle where you want it. After doing so you'll want to recalibrate your TPS to make sure it is reading correctly with the new position. Then you can plug the IAC back in and set your idle stuff in Tuner Studio to align with the RPM you want. Closed loop idle with timing control is really nice and fairly straight forward to enable.
 

FMOS Racing

PSI=:-D
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Yessir, still 19s. VEs are relative, though - it's not dependent on injector size, though a lot of the other percentages behave differently when req fuel (which is dependent on injector size) changes. Save your tune, copy the VE table out of mine and plug it in yours. See how it behaves. Keep in mind that I tune mine to a 14.5 AFR at idle and 15.1-15.2 at cruise, down to 12.3 at WOT. That does impact the numbers in the VE table.

Outside of WOT, you're very unlikely to hurt anything if your fueling isn't spot on. Even at WOT naturally aspirated, there's a pretty decent amount of leeway. It'll run like garbage if you're overly lean or rich, but it's not going to hurt.

I've had plenty of times where I changed something on either truck that put it in "garbage" mode. That's when you revert to the last restore point to get home and then try to sort out where you went wrong.
 

slow94

Well-known member
If you're working on idle unplug the IAC and manually set the idle where you want it. After doing so you'll want to recalibrate your TPS to make sure it is reading correctly with the new position. Then you can plug the IAC back in and set your idle stuff in Tuner Studio to align with the RPM you want. Closed loop idle with timing control is really nice and fairly straight forward to enable.
This... Always make sure the truck will idle without help of iac. The iac is the last thing to react imo. Timing is fastest to respond, fuel secondly, then the air (iac).

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core-rider

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OMG... Setting up the idle speed without the IAC made a huge difference in idle quality and drivability!!! :oops: It wouldn't even idle without the IAC plugged in... 1 full turn of the positive stop made it idle at 750rpms steady as could be and when going into gear or sitting in gear for awhile it wasn't surging like it would commonly do. Sometimes it would stall if given just the slightest bit of pedal as well... now all that seems to be gone. My idle AFRs seem to be a bit more stable now as well. I guess the IAC was trying to do all the work.

Thank you very much @Raymond_B for that piece of advice!

I also added more fuel on the WUE once the engine gets hot to mimic @FMOS Racing parameters. I'm hoping those 2 changes will help my hot start issues I've been having. It will be interesting to see if the cold start runs smoother with the idle change as well.
 

Raymond_B

Administrator
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OMG... Setting up the idle speed without the IAC made a huge difference in idle quality and drivability!!! :oops: It wouldn't even idle without the IAC plugged in... 1 full turn of the positive stop made it idle at 750rpms steady as could be and when going into gear or sitting in gear for awhile it wasn't surging like it would commonly do. Sometimes it would stall if given just the slightest bit of pedal as well... now all that seems to be gone. My idle AFRs seem to be a bit more stable now as well. I guess the IAC was trying to do all the work.

Thank you very much @Raymond_B for that piece of advice!

I also added more fuel on the WUE once the engine gets hot to mimic @FMOS Racing parameters. I'm hoping those 2 changes will help my hot start issues I've been having. It will be interesting to see if the cold start runs smoother with the idle change as well.

Awesome! The main person to thank is Jerry (GJLS) he let me know about that way back when I was getting ready to get my truck going.
 

core-rider

Paid NLOC Member
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That should really be in the instructions for the PxS during setup. I guess it would have to come after initial startup tuning, but for sure something they should add!


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slow94

Well-known member
I use a moderately aggressive idle timing correction curve, too. I find that helps a lot when using the AC.
Me too. The soft start fans really help but I think perfection would come from AC idle up.

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FMOS Racing

PSI=:-D
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Shaking down the PxS's Launch Control - She'll build 5-6 psi on the brake. It could be more, but that's where I have boost control set at 0 mph currently. It pushed the fronts in the paint at 3200 rpms, but should hold fine on a sticky track. I don't think I'll actually be able to stick it that high, though.

 

FlatOut

Paid NLOC Member
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just for comparison. what RPM and Boost could you make with the old converter. From the video it sounds like its "ready to go" a lot more.
 

FMOS Racing

PSI=:-D
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2100 rpm and right around 1 psi. I can definitely feel the violence wanting to be unleashed.

I think I'm going to set it up so it ramps to full boost and locks the converter at 25 mph.
 

slow94

Well-known member
That's pretty good on foot brake. Think I have been able to leave on 3-4 psi but still need 100 shot to get a decent 60'. Anything in the 1.5's and I'm disappointed. Hopefully be going back to track soon to see how fast this stock bottom end can go.

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FMOS Racing

PSI=:-D
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One of the 15-odd year old, rebuilt-twice Magnecore wires came apart on me.
IMG_20220925_202559512.jpg

So after seeking advice, I have a nice new set of custom Firecore50s and socks. I wish I would've gone just a little shorter on the lengths, but I'm overall very happy!
IMG_20221002_123758129.jpg
 

ASAP

Fore!
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Looks good Jeff! Definitely time for replacements.


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glenbartley

Paid NLOC Member
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I like those a lot. Where did you get those. Mine are the originals I believe. Those need to be on the shelf.
 
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